Trident maple problem

Discussion in 'Maples' started by zfrittz, Oct 13, 2020.

  1. zfrittz

    zfrittz Active Member

    Messages:
    206
    Likes Received:
    226
    Location:
    Granada- Andalucia
    A friend has just sent me this photo of the leaves of his trident maple, and he tells me that he has lost many leaves during the summer, to determine what disease he has, I think it is anthracnose but I'm not sure, if anyone is familiar with this problem and a solution.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Acerholic

    Acerholic Esteemed Contributor Forums Moderator VCBF Cherry Scout Maple Society

    Messages:
    6,314
    Likes Received:
    3,823
    Location:
    Hampshire England Zone 8b UK
    @zfrittz, I think you maybe right J, it has the symptoms and some signs of Anthracnose, but I don't see the tell tell white markings ( pimples) on the underside of the leaf, but that might just be my eyes.
    I would suggest removing all the leaves and any dead or diseased wood and burn.
    In the Spring a Copper fungacide spray should sort the problem out.
     
    zfrittz likes this.
  3. 0soyoung

    0soyoung Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    179
    Likes Received:
    121
    Location:
    Anacortes, WA
    I would need to know much more about the particular circumstances, but it doesn't look fungal to me. It is similar to what happens when a tree lacks water during leaf emergence. To say this again in another way, young leaves will do this because of a temporary loss of turgidity. I note that just the most distal part of the leaf (the area opposite the petiole, in other words) is damaged. These areas are the farthest removed from water and the most easily desiccated.

    This, to which I refer, can easily occur in pots by waiting a bit too long to water - the new growth droops/wilts, but recovers turgidity after watering - the desiccation of the leaf tips though is permanent. Happening to a ground-planted tree, however, implies root problems (girdling roots, for example).

    I think fungal problems will affect a leave more generally, but it is possible for spores to have collected on the leaf surfaces and then collect in water hanging on the downward hanging leaf tips after a light sprinkling of the foliage. The spores in the water then activate and the infection begins. One will note a pattern of the affected leaf tips - downward pointing and like a record of where water pools or hangs on the leaf
     
    zfrittz and emery like this.
  4. zfrittz

    zfrittz Active Member

    Messages:
    206
    Likes Received:
    226
    Location:
    Granada- Andalucia
    Thanks @Acerholic and @0soyoung
    for answering, the tree is in a pot, today I have been at his house and I have seen it closely, as he has told me it has been in the same pot without transplanting for about 8 years, there I think is where the Problem, a very high accumulation of salts and heavy minerals in the earth, also I think it has a bit of anthracnose too and some root fungus problem.
    I have pulverized it with sulfur and it will be treated until spring once a month, alternating sulfur and copper the following month.
    I have also agreed with him a transplant at the end of February to cut almost all the roots and almost all the branches since they are very weak and the only thing he has done this year has been to open the shoots but none have grown, only the leaves have been born, and it doesn't have a single healthy one, they are all twisted down and the oldest ones are dry up to the middle of the leaf.
    Is the treatment that I have proposed to you a good treatment?
     
  5. Acerholic

    Acerholic Esteemed Contributor Forums Moderator VCBF Cherry Scout Maple Society

    Messages:
    6,314
    Likes Received:
    3,823
    Location:
    Hampshire England Zone 8b UK
    @zfrittz I think your plan of action is a very good one J. As I said in my first post, I could not see the tell tell signgs of Anthracnose on the underside of the leaf and J @Osoyoung has confirmed he does not belive it is.
    But what you propose will do the tree no harm at all and repotting will also help reinvigorate it. 8 years in the same pot and same substrate is no good for any tree or plant. This maybe the root cause, no pun intended, Lol.
    So your actions will IMO cover all the bases so to speak.
     
    zfrittz likes this.
  6. AlainK

    AlainK Generous Contributor Forums Moderator Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,306
    Likes Received:
    1,029
    Location:
    nr Orléans, France (E.U.)
    I've never had any fungal problems with my A. buergerianum, I think it's much less prone to diseases than other maple species. I think the pb comes from the rootball being too tight, so I agree with those suggesting to repot it. To me, fungal treatments are not necessary, I think it amounts to what we call "applying sticking plaster to a wooden leg"...
    Acer buergerianum can bear heavy root pruning just before budbreak. They also tolerate much more alkaline soil than Acer palmatum or other species.
     
    zfrittz likes this.
  7. zfrittz

    zfrittz Active Member

    Messages:
    206
    Likes Received:
    226
    Location:
    Granada- Andalucia
    @AlainK I will publish when I cut the root ball and put new soil on it, I think it will respond quite well, I also think that most of the problem is having been in the pot for so long without renewing the substrate.
     
  8. Ron B

    Ron B Paragon of Plants 10 Years

    Messages:
    20,214
    Likes Received:
    331
    Location:
    WA USA (Z8)
    Symptoms vary depending on the plant and fungus involved. Usually there are vein-associated lesions, discrete necrotic spots, and/or irregular necrotic blotches or blights. Acervuli usually are produced in the necrotic spots, which may or may not be conspicuous. Severely diseased trees can defoliate early. Twig cankers or lesions also can develop where fungi can overwinter.

    Cultural control

    • Rake up and destroy fallen leaves.
    • Remove and destroy twig cankers during dormant pruning.
    • Avoid dense plantings in nurseries and time irrigation to minimize the time leaves are wet.


    Maple (Acer spp.)-Anthracnose
     
    zfrittz likes this.
  9. AlainK

    AlainK Generous Contributor Forums Moderator Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,306
    Likes Received:
    1,029
    Location:
    nr Orléans, France (E.U.)
    I think it's a good idea to post about "repotting", or "transplanting" maples :

    It's better, IMO, to plant trees in October-November, or repot trees in this period when you have a greenhouse that can prevent the fragile roots to be damaged by frost. Like said before, the soil is still warm enough to help the roots develop until they stop functioning.

    Since most of mine are potted, I prefer to wait for the end of winter/early spring when there's only light frost.

    A lot of us don't have enough space to have our trees in the ground, so maybe a thread about "repotting maples" would be a good idea. In due time...
     
    zfrittz likes this.
  10. zfrittz

    zfrittz Active Member

    Messages:
    206
    Likes Received:
    226
    Location:
    Granada- Andalucia
  11. AlainK

    AlainK Generous Contributor Forums Moderator Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,306
    Likes Received:
    1,029
    Location:
    nr Orléans, France (E.U.)
    Thanks for the link : I missed this thread, my internet connexion crashed on October 6th and was only fixed yesterday ^_^
     

Share This Page