I planted a maple a few days ago. When I first got it or looked lush and vibrant. Now it looks like it is wilting and sagging. Is this transplant shock and is the tree a goner or is there anything I can do to help it? It is getting watered daily but not too much. If it is going to recover, when should it start looking normal again? If it looks like it needs life support in a week from now should I cut my losses and just replace it while still early in the growing season? Thx
I have moved house a few times and each time my Acer came with me. It just so happened the house moves came when the tree was dormant which is the best time to transplant. The next time I move (waiting) I will have to leave her behind and that saddens me a great deal...she is too deep under the lawn now and the trunk is too thick. Try to move trees in the dormant period around January time if the ground is not frozen, and warm the soil as its winter with warm water before planting.
It should be fine. All plants tend to be floppy after planting. Leave yours where it is, it should recover next season if not this. I just had one sapling defoliated but next year it will bud again so I will leave it..
jelway, do you happen to have before and after pics? Most likely it is as Aisya said, and you have surmised - transplant shock - but if it isn't, pictures will go a long way towards helping figure out what the problem might be and how to correct it. Pictures of the tree itself, and then the base of the tree/how it has been planted, would be most helpful. What type of maple is it? What is your native soil like? Did you amend it in any way? I'm a 'transplanted' Edmontonian myself - and greatly prefer the summers there to those of Kansas, lol - but as I never had any sort of garden while I was living there, I cannot remember just what the soil is like.
When a tree is first planted, sometimes the root mass is compacted and despite regular attempts at watering, very little makes it into the inner root mass, which can contribute to transplant shock. I recommend doing a slow watering. Some put the hose on a trickle and hope the slow stream of water makes it into the roots (I do not prefer this method). I prefer to use a milk jug or plastic bucket. Use a 1/8 drill bit and drill a series of holes in the bottom. If using a jug, the cap can be loosened or tightened to control the flow rate. Fill the bucket or jug in the 12:00 position on the root ball next to the trunk. Repeat at the 3,6, and 9 o'clock positions. This will ensure that the root mass gets saturated and it will help eliminate any air pockets. Consider providing the tree some shade for a week with a shade cloth or old sheet raised up by a few wooden stakes at the appropriate height, allowing air movement while providing shade. Sometimes new delicate growth will start to fail and should be cut back to the first or second leaf pairs, usually the first set of leaves are mature enough to form secondary buds and new leaves in the coming month. The growth from previous years will easily form new buds and leaves in the event the current leaves fail. Most trees will survive transplant shock and some will rebound quickly in one month to 6 weeks, while others may need a dormant period to completely recover. To prevent transplant shock in the future (aside from time of year), consider planting on a cool cloudy day, when rain is forecasted in the next 24 hours. Use a wet towel to cover the root mass once its been removed from the pot while its waiting to go in the ground. If B&B, moisten the burlap and cover with a wet towel as soon as you get it home. Water the tree several times during planting to eliminate any air pockets and to ensure the root mass stays cool and moist. If its going to get hot and sunny, try to provide the tree with some shade, when practicable. Always limit the time the roots are exposed to air and sunlight to prevent them from drying and becoming damaged, this is where the wet towel can provide some insurance against transplant shock. Some use super-thrive to treat transplant shock, especially in bonsai. I personally have not seen it perform any miracles, but some swear by it. We move things through out the growing season, despite all the don't(s) and have great success. Limiting root damage and proper planting by eliminating air pockets is the key to success. Of course providing proper water during establishment is key too. Direct answers to your questions: Is this transplant shock and is the tree a goner or is there anything I can do to help it? (Based on what is known about the history of the tree, yes it is transplant shock and see above for what can be done, because at this point intervention can play a big role in recovery) It is getting watered daily but not too much (good, but note that too much water can disguise itself as drought stress and transplant shock). If it is going to recover, when should it start looking normal again? (anywhere from 6 weeks which is most common or up to next Spring) If it looks like it needs life support in a week from now should I cut my losses and just replace it while still early in the growing season? (This depends on your resources and your personal feelings. If its in a dramatic place in the landscape and you just can't stand to look at it, then give it to a friend that has lots of patience and a place in their garden that is protected. Otherwise, you can give it time to recover. If you decide to get a new tree, do everything you can to prevent this from happening again, otherwise you will be back at square one again.)
Thank you for your great detailed response! My big fear is that me new Maple was just going to die a slow death and I wouldn't know it until next Spring. It is a new Red Maple (Armstrong) about 14 feet high but not a large calliper. I was worried if being patient was just going to be a waste come next spring. Thank you
Difficult (but not impossible) to overwater a red maple. Make sure there's a stake, low and at an angle so the roots aren't rocking in the wind. You can remove the stake in fall 2015. Good news, this is a tough tree and will probably survive the shock; it may lose leaves early in fall or late summer but given enough water will probably come back strong next spring.
