Well, Winter, I don't want to put more controversy on this point, but to complicate more this thing, here is a blog that talks about it. I discovered it recently, and the info provided sometimes is quite controversial from what I already read in other forums, books or websites. However, all what I read in it, has logical explanations, not only for pruning, also for watering, shade/sun exposure, soil mixes, among other themes. Here is the link: http://japanese-maples.com/pruning-a-japanese-maple-dont-be-scared/ Also, I invite to take a look to the other themes also in the same blog. Again, you can agree or disagree what he's saying but I think that he is bringing interesting point o view to the table, to be discussed in other threads. Here are some themes: http://japanese-maples.com/cutting-through-the-confusion-of-caring-for-japanese-maples/ http://japanese-maples.com/some-thoughts-on-planting-part-2/ http://japanese-maples.com/some-thoughts-on-planting-part-3/ http://japanese-maples.com/suitable-soil-types-for-japanese-maples/ http://japanese-maples.com/death-by-watering/ http://japanese-maples.com/death-by-watering-part-2/ http://japanese-maples.com/mycorrhiza-in-the-garden/ Nelran
Winter, In my experience for potted JMs that are pruned in autumn or early spring there is no need to branch prune as compensation for root pruning. It is a good idea to branch prune at those times if needed but not necessarily. Here is a Bonsai master who gives some instruction on a very majestic JM bonsai. In the comments section he answers several questions about timing.
Check out what Walter Pall has to say... http://walter-pall-bonsai.blogspot.com/2007/03/reoptting-of-teh-big-maple-part-1.html
Wow, anybody who can grow a tree like that probably know what they are doing. I think though that Gil posted the same link at #27. Interesting to read the commentary at the end - links back to this forum!
Hi, I had to re-pot 6 trees since they were last re-potted 3 years ago. These were 4 - 5 year trees in 7 gallon containers. I re-potted 3 in fall in 3 in early spring (mid feb). Root pruned all of them by atleast 25 - 30 %, did not take of any of the top growth. After leafing out, you can easily tell the trees that were re-potted in spring, the leaves are not as bright, a lot of the buds on some branches have not opened. While the ones that were re-potted in fall are vigorous. A couple of trees that I re-potted in early spring that I did not root prune but bare-rooted show not effects of the repotting. If I am repotting in spring I do it when the buds are just getting ready to swell, I do not know If I have the guts to re-pot with root pruning after the trees leaf out as Walter recommends. xman
In fact, what Xman has demonstrated explains why bonsai enthusiasts root prune in the spring. When you practice bonsai culture you are always trying to slow down the growth of the plant. We, maple enthusiasts, strive to make our trees grow vigorously. Gomero
Paxi, you're right, the link was posted earlier. Obviously that's where I ran across it in the first place. Thanks again Poetry to Burn. Just retracing my learning steps from last fall after a winter of dormancy. Trees are finally starting to open up and I'm reconnecting with my garden. I really like what xman and Gomero shared as well. Good information to keep in mind.
To add more to this interesting topic of root prunning; I found a very informative and detailed video from "GardenGate" Magazine web site. The example is done with a Japanese Maple. Here is the link: http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/extras/72video-rootpruning.php And another video showing the progress (with the same tree) after just two weeks: http://www.gardengatemagazine.com/extras/72video-twoweekslater.php Nelran
Gomero, the videos are in WMV 9 format in case you are blocking this type of content or do not have the plug-in installed. Works fine here in Firefox and IE.
