Hey what are the thoughts on using sea soil compost with a mix of fir mulch and grit for container JM
This is for a large container for a special maple, correct? (A longterm container) QUESTION 1 - pls clarify - what do you mean by « fir mulch » ... bark or needles - Or ground up wood —- and from what source? (Ask about Weeds?) QUESTION 2 Are you referring to the brand name « sea soil » from north end Vanc Island ? If YES, which exact one (they make several formulas) SEA SOIL™ | Natural Organic Growing Soil for Your Flower & Vegetable Gardens If this is a longterm focal point container with an equally expensive investment in a tree, please use guaranteed weed-free container soil to start. (Future weeds are up to your diligence !) My 2nd input - before you load up your container and plant the tree, go and buy ASAP the expensive (35$?) AND long lasting plant pot stands on wheels - I can’t recall brand name around Vanc BC - they last for years and are worth every penny. I have some black and some terra cotta color. I will see if I can find brand name on one. Looking fwd to learning more of your project
hi @Georgia Strait thanks so much for getting back to me. It is fir bark mulch and yes the JM’s I keep in my garden will all be in containers. The sea soil is “original sea soil “ the same I believe as you listed, I’ve included a picture. There was another brand but can’t remember the name of it. It was recommended to me to use compost, pine mulch and grit. I can’t find pine mulch so I opted for fir but the compost I struggled with, so for a couple trees I used a container mix along with the fir mulch and grit (builders cement mix). One potting mix brand was fairly heavy and held moisture the other lighter, but I really want to do it right. Thanks for the suggestion on pot lifters I’d appreciate the company name, I also have the welder at work making me some as I may have gone JM crazy the past couple weeks. pots I’m struggling with often so I have a mixture to see what’s going to work as I have many young trees. I have some glazed terra cotta, resin mixed, nursery pots for those still growing and even grow bags. I am fairly new to this and intend on root pruning to maintain the sizes I like so I need physically manageable. I am a 5’2” fairly strong female but I have suffered and herniated disc in the past and do all that I can to a Avoid that nightmare again
For now (I can’t name the plant dolly with wheels right now) - be sure you know that Sea Soil has different mixtures My neighbor at the coast grows maple in large containers and I think he’s keen on drainage and possibly « sunshine mix » for those containers Drainage is key I am not an expert on maples esp expensive ones ! @Acerholic is one of the maple forum moderaters — yes all the way from England and while may not be speaking of same brand names as we have here - can likely offer input about feeding (N-P-K) and when and what blend of soil mix Another container Gardener I have read here is a gardener named Keith who lived off grid with his family on one of the gulf islands and had an amazing maple Japanese garden made with salvaged wood off the beach etc I am a hosta fan among other things - I think they look great in our climate with maples - and do well in pots too! A combination would look nice - hostas die back in winter yet your maples keep their magical structure year round. I will look at plant pot dolly later when at home.
Before getting too excited about fish fertilizer products, read Robert Pavlis's article: Robert Pavlis "Sea Soil is just another form of compost – nothing special about it. But it costs 3 times as much as manure compost." - Robert Pavlis Many years ago, a very successful BC landscaper I knew told me that fish fertilizer has really only 2 years before all the fish (nutrient) component is used up and all you are left with is rather expensive bark mulch. And perhaps more phosphorus than your soil needs. More and more, we are coming to realize that we are very likely giving our gardens too much phosphorus (as in all manures and fish fertilizers) which compromises the establishment of mycorrhizal fungus in the soil. It is all so very complicated! There's no question in my mind that fish fertilizers are dynamite once first applied but I remain skeptical about the marketing tactics and cost.
Good morning Lisa, I have no experience of Sea soil compost, but after Georgia mentioned me in her post, I thought I would chip in on what I use. First of all, there really is no magical formula, but over the years you work out what is best for your trees. I use John Innes no3 compost, horticultural pine bark, horticulture grit and peat. My mix is all about nutrients to last for 3 years and most importantly drainage. I always repot every two years, so I have a bit of leeway. John Innes no 3 is a blend of compost that lasts better and has been used for over 50 years successfully. But in your area I would go for a good quality compost and not the cheap potting composts you see for sale at supermarkets. Then mix it with grit , pine bark. Obviously peat is very good, but not environmentally friendly. So you will have to leave it out, unless as I did, I bought up old stocks at a garden centre. So keep an eye out. The main thing as others have said, is drainage, drainage, drainage. If you get that right, you can 'never' over water a maple. D
Perlite is also a good addition. It always holds some air so helps with the oxygenation of the root zone and I feel gives you a bit more leeway with whatever else you put in the mix. Relatively expensive but you don't need much, 5% perlite is plenty in a mix that contains bark and some grit. I try to mix a couple of different potting mixes or composts with the bark etc., that way if one is too heavy or too light, or deficient or over abundant in a particular nutrient you are evening it out. I don't sweat it too much about the brand. I also use John Innes too which contains quite a high percentage of loam. Not all container growers agree on the benefits of loam in a potting mix but I find it works well as part of the mix in a long term soil. @Otto Bjornson also posted a youtube video on the forum of the mix he uses with products available in B.C., don't know if you saw this, but well worth a watch. At the end of the day any mix that drains pretty well and is not totally alkaline (which it won't be because of the bark) will work. Ask ten different JM growers and you would probably get ten different recipes and all would swear their version was the best!
as @Acerholic mentioned, most important above all else in the container medium is good drainage! Japanese maples don't really require anything else other then a regular watering schedule. The subtle characteristics of a japanese maple will shine when they are just left alone (imo) other then watering. A tablespoon of slow release fertilizer will give it all the nutrients it requires during the growing season. Some of the fish fertilizer products / soil mixes are really great in the veggie garden though from personal experience.
That is exactly what I tell my friends Otto, but they always feel they should be doing something more.
Thanks everyone for all the advice I’ll see what I can figure out. I think I’m getting hung up on words “compost vs soil vs fertilizer “. I have found a PROmix product that seemed decent I think the “my soil container soil” is too heavy for the Japanese maples but great for veggies. I’m thinking of grabbing pro-mix hp mycorrhizae which is supposed to be a high porosity blend and do the grit and fir mulch mix to it. My red dragon Japanese maple has what I would consider the perfect mix as it’s still light and fluffy well draining. I got it from a nursery that got it from out of country I believe so they don’t know the exact mix. Out of all my trees that one has the best mix I really want to replicate it. The next closest one is the tree from iseli nursery in Portland Oregon that I got the ice dragon from.
If you work on that principle Lisa you will never go far wrong. Just to add, compost for veggies is no good for maples. It holds onto water too long.
Good morning - thé plant caddy (the plant stand) with wheels I have is « Down Under » by Bosmere Here is their USA website - below I notice that they are avail at Bed Bath Beyond hère in BC - and lots of specialty garden stores (that is where I bought mine at least 10 yr ago) Note that there are various sizes and colors Bosmere Products Here is BB-Beyond Canada I notice when I opened their website it prompted me to sign up for emails and get 15% off — I said no — so it popped up again this time with 20% ! Bosmere Plant Caddie | Bed Bath and Beyond Canada
Search: Vermiculite or Perlite. There's lots to read that should help you decide which is best for your situation.
Not in this situation. I am using perlite to ensure there is air and therefore oxygen in the rootzone under all conditions and to improve the drainage. Vermiculite tends to hold too much water for Japanese maples under most conditions and could lead to root rot - the only time I can think that you would substitute them is in a very hot, arid climate if your potting mix was drying out too quickly.
Lisa Harry said: ↑ @maf would vermiculite substitute for perilite? I agree totally with M @maf , perlite everytime for maples. It really aids drainage Lisa.
I found this comparison interesting - would thé experienced maple gardeners consider it accurate? Vermiculite vs Perlite vs Horticultural Grit (Which One is Better in the Container Garden) - Container Plants and Gardening
