Last year I applied moss killer (liquid concentrate diluted with water from a garden hose) and it worked to control moss in my lawn. However, in applying the spray, I accidentally sprayed some droplets on a wooden Adirondack chair- this created black mottled spots all over the chair that are impossible to remove. I NOW have moss growing on shady spots of my concrete sidewalks thro' the garden...I am TOLD that if I use moss killer on concrete it will STAIN the concrete like it did my chair. Can I add bleach to water and get rid of it that way? What is the best way to get rid of it and keep it from coming back?
Hi Norm, Just using your power sprayer on your sidewalk should work. If you put in too much bleach you can kill the grass and any plants growing near the walk. You can also scrub with a brush. You will probably need to do this yearly unless you can get some sunlight to the area. That's the only way you can keep the moss from returning to the walk. Newt
Norm and all--people use the cheapest (Costco, etc.) laundry detergent, sprinkled over the moist moss. Kills it pretty quick and cheap with few side effects. I've used bleach (at least 3 to 1 with water, maybe 10 to 1 would still work) but it damaged nearby plants, so depends if you can avoid overspray, etc. The bleach will break down (evaporate into the air) after a while so that would be safe too if you apply carefully to begin with. Permanent solution, move to the Okanagan. We live in moss heaven, and it will be back. Treating it while still just a green slime is probably the easiest, maybe every 2-3 years before it gets tall and lumpy! Glen
Another effective idea to control isolated outbreaks of moss (i.e.) in cracks of concrete - is to apply a diluted mix of Arm and Hammer Baking Soda with a backpack sprayer. Ratio is 250 ml of baking soda to 3.5 gallons (14 L) of water. Remember, this application is for isolated moss that is NOT in contact with growing grass/turf. Good luck! O
Hey all and Norm by concrete what type of finish are we talking (: smoothed /brushed /exposed agreate/sealed or not ? Iron in all forms will stain and kill moss so will copper and alluiminum. Pressure washing will clean the surface (but like rototiling your garden it may bring up a new crop) I think your best bet is to clean and scrub / and then seal it with a good water base sealer.. redards Doug
Kind of a late post, but hey I'm new to the forum. If you want to kill moss on pavers, roofs, or anywhere iron is not suitable, buy zinc sulfate. It's sold at most garden centers and agriculture supply stores. It won't stain and it kills moss just like iron, it does take a day or so longer though to kill the moss. I use it often. A note to any local lower mainland gardeners, Terralink in Abbotsford sells a 20% iron spray grade mosskiller (50kg bag) that doesn't stain if you slightly over spray onto concrete. Unlike the heptahydrate mosskiller bags sold by Evergro. I switched over about 4 years ago and havent had a stain since. Norm so sorry to hear about your Adirondack deck chairs, I've seen that black staining on wood before too. I know how you feel, after 20 yrs of moss killing, I can't drive anywhere in this city without seeing a stain of my own doing. (lol from my early years in business)
I want to use Iron Sulphate on my moss. I have fertilized already (2 weeks ago) can I still apply Iron Sulphate and not worry about burning the lawn? Also how fast does Iron Sulphate work?
Are you planning on using a liquid or granular moss control? Which ever you purchase may come with fertilizer combined with it. It should not make a big difference that you have already fertilized your lawn. Read the label and apply accordingly. You should start to see the moss turning black immediately after the application has been applied. Best of luck,, Jim.
