First Time Maple Graft

Discussion in 'Maples' started by flitch, Apr 5, 2005.

  1. flitch

    flitch Member

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    I grafted 2 sions onto my mountain maple. It was my first time grafting. The sions that I used were much smaller than the rootstock. I tryed to match up the cambrian layers together but since the sions were so small I only lined lined them up with one edge of the cambrian of the rootstock. I then used electricians tape to bind them together and didn't apply any grafting wax as I didn't have any. My question is: what are the odds that they will take and how long before I know if it worked?

    Hopefully the grafts will take.
     

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  2. Thean

    Thean Active Member 10 Years

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    Howdy Flitch,
    If you have matched the cambium it may take anywhere from two weeks to two months before you see results. When you see the buds in your scion breaking, you know you are successful. I see that you were using black tapes which I am guess is not bio-degradable nor elastic. Whether you are successful or not, the tapes will have to be slit or removed as soon the you see any constriction, probably in June.
    Peace
    THean
     
  3. flitch

    flitch Member

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    Hi Thean,
    Thanks for the info. Do you think electrical tape could be a problem for grafting? Is it nessasary to use some sort of grafting wax or sealant for better results?
     
  4. Layne Uyeno

    Layne Uyeno Active Member 10 Years

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    Hi,

    I have to chime in here as the difference in caliper between the scion and the understock is so enormous! Not only that but the graft is so high up on the otherwise very nice looking tree. What was your motivation in doing this? I'm curious. It looks rather awkward.

    Regarding the electrician's tape: It might do well enough a job, but you might want to track down some Buddy Tape grafting tape. It's especially made for grafting. The important thing to to not let the graft union dry out or the graft will not take. Also it's usual to graft 1st or 2nd year scion onto 2nd year rootstock so the calipers of both plants match closely.

    It looks to me like you are trying to create a new branch on the understock and not trying to graft to make a totally new tree. Am I correct? If so, you might want to try chip budding or T budding. Basically you replace a bud on the host tree with a bud from the selected tree. Or, you could try something like this:

    http://www.leevalley.com/garden/page.aspx?c=2&p=10254&cat=2,42706,40719&ap=1

    Layne
     
  5. Idacer

    Idacer Active Member Maple Society 10 Years

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    Budding rubbers (a.k.a. grafting rubbers) are a widely used device for wrapping and securing graft unions on Japanese Maples. They are essentially 6" long, 1/4" wide rubber bands, though they're likely thinner and have more flexibility than a rubber band you might acquire at an office supply store. If not waxed, they will disintegrate and fall off by themselves in a few months. Their elasticity helps to not unnecessarily restrict the newly formed graft union.

    I have actually used large office rubber bands successfully in the past. But, budding rubbers are much, much easier to work with.

    Most grafters seem to have moved away from grafting wax in favor of plastic bags or tents to drive up humidity levels and keep scions and the graft union from drying out until the graft takes. Search this forum for the key word "grafting" and you'll find several threads that speak to the subject.

    Good luck,
    Bryan
     
  6. flitch

    flitch Member

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    Thanks for the great information guys,

    The reason why I grafted this tree so high was because I intend to air layer just below the grafts either this year or next depending on how long it takes for the grafts to fuse together with the rootstock. I will turn the lower portion of the tree into a bonsai. I bought the tree at Home Depot and planted it about 4 years in the ground after tying it's roots to a rock. It will be a root over rock style bonsai. I will leave it in the ground for another 2 years before digging it up to see how the roots fused to the rock. Securing the graft with a rubber band sounds interesting to me, definetly worthwhile checking it out. Bagging the graft sounds like a good idea also. Keeping it moist is not a problem in Coquitlam right now cause it's being raining on and off for the last month or so.
     
  7. Thean

    Thean Active Member 10 Years

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    Howdy Flitch,
    Idacer and Layne have given you the answer to your question. As a rule I find the type of ligature used for budding or grafting has no bearing on success rate. Its function is to hold the two parts together till union is completed. However, the bio-degradable types like rubber are better as they are elastic and they break down and require no further attention.
    Peace
    Thean
     
  8. I'm hoping to chime in with a similar question about grafting. It would be my first attempt also. I purchased a grafted A.p. 'Sunset' over the winter and I don't think the scion is going to bud out. I have noticed that the rootstock is starting to bud out and I'm thinking hmmmm...maybe I can get something out of this by recutting the stock and attempting to graft something onto it. This can be done, right? I thought I had read of people reusing the stock if the scion didn't take. It was a high graft, so there is plenty of room to try it.
    Kay Dye
     
  9. Layne Uyeno

    Layne Uyeno Active Member 10 Years

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    Hi,

    Do the buds on the scion section of your tree show any signs of life? They haven't shrivelled up or turned black have they? Don't be so quick to lop it off. I live in Los Angeles and my trees have just started leafing out a couple of weeks ago. Give it some time.

    Layne
     

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