Evans cherry propagation (softwood cuttings)

Discussion in 'Plant Propagation' started by dino, May 26, 2007.

  1. dino

    dino Active Member

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    Location:
    St-Albert, Alberta
    The one Evans cherry in the backyard of my St-Albert home is now almost three metres tall, and promising a good year. The first several flowers have opened today.
    This year, I want to try rooting a couple dozen softwood cuttings. Like a proper golf swing, there seem to be lots of wrong ways to do this; the right way seems pretty richly detailed.

    In this forum (Feb.2005) Thean of Brooks wrote: "Evans propagate readily with softwood cuttings and root cuttings. Softwood cutting should be taken before the formation of the terminal bud..."

    That is very helpful. I now know how to tell when I've waited too long; that's good.
    How do I anticipate that formation ?
    Last year, my tree's new (vigourous) growth measured +/- 500 mm. Could I say that as soon as the first new growth has got to 500 mm., I ought then to take my cuttings?

    1. Would that be a reasonable rule ?
    2. Elsewhere I've read that on a productive tree, the year's new growth ought to be cut back to 200/250 mm. Will I reduce fruit production on branches on which I've cut new growth back to 250 mm (taking cuttings) ?
    3. Also I've read that Evans is short-lived, around a quarter-century. I feel silly asking this: if the tree dies to the ground, will the root also expire? Or will the root perhaps put forth new growth with a new lease on life?

    Thanks in advance for all suggestions.
    Dino
     
  2. Thean

    Thean Active Member 10 Years

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    Location:
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Howdy Dino,
    I'll take the liberty of assuming that you are familiar with propagation with softwood cuttings. Around St. Alberta, you should be taking the cuttings around the third week of June, certainly no later than Canada Day. Since you have fruits, this year's growth will not be so long. If you are doing root cuttings, roots are best dug in fall if you have a greenhouse or else dig them as soon as the ground can be dug in spring and propagated immediately.
    Evans is a spur bearing type. Some people head back a little just to hold the size or shape. Most people don't as Evans is not a big tree even when it is allowed to run wild in Alberta.
    Yes, this cherry is short lived since it is very susceptible to Pseudomonas disease. When the tree is affected, you will notice brown gum oozing out from the infected points. Cut off the branch some distance below the affected part - 1 foot is not excessive.
    Even before the tree starts to go downhill, you will notice that it will produce rootsuckers. The answer to your question then is yes you can get replacement when your tree dies although it maybe slightly be further away from your planting point. You also have to be prepared to select one for replacement and remove the rest.
    Peace
    Thean
     
  3. dino

    dino Active Member

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    Thean, howdy-do !

    Thanks a lot for replying; that's a big help, Thean.

    It's a beautiful day in St-Albert today. Only one cloud in our perfect sky: no BEES ! Poplar fluff is flying. Blooming are two kinds of plums, red currants, Jostaberry, wild cherry, Mayday. And dandelions. And my Evans is approaching peak flowering. But no bees.

    This will be my first shot at propagating woody-plant softwood cuttings. The "how-to" literature is pretty good- I find- on what to do with the cuttings once they're removed from the plant. I'm reading.

    The last time we had a major dump (in spring) of wet snow, it split the top half of my Evans trunk into almost perfect thirds. I cut that all off and forced the most likely limb upward as a new leader; and it has worked very well. Only negative is: the bark has not yet grown over the stump of the old trunk; and earlier (it's stopped now), brown gum oozed out. So I was plumb alarmed to read your words: "(Evans is) very susceptible to Pseudomonas disease. When the tree is affected, you will notice brown gum oozing out from the infected points...". And I rushed out and checked my tree. There's no ooze now; no gum has collected.
    I wonder, though, if I might be better painting the stump (three or four square inches of paint would be enough). Care to comment, Thean ?

    And willow water (I know I'm too late to make it this year): is it considered useful for stimulation of rooting of Evans softwood cuttings ?

    Dino
     
  4. Thean

    Thean Active Member 10 Years

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    Howdy Dino,
    No rain? Has the rain maker rodeo lost its charm? The Medicineman must not have done his job properly! Hehehe.
    Some people paint fungicide to treat Pseudomonas. Personally I doubt its effectiveness since Pseudomonas is a bacteria and not a fungus. Hope others can provide us with some inputs. If the gum stops oozing out, I'm more incline to just let things sort itself out. Just keep an eye on it.
    You mentioned willow water. That's interesting and hope others in this forum have something to add. No one knows for sure why some plants respond positively to willow water. Some think its the salicyclic acid while others think there is some yet to be discovered root promoting factor since willow has preformed root primodia in its stems. I find regular rooting power works just as well for Evans. I would just drop in at Holes Greenhouse, see Jim Holes is possible to get more tips, and buy rooting power from him or any other nurseries.
    No honeybees? That's another interesting observation. I was in Edmonton last week and made the same observation. I shall try to contact Dr. Madhat and find out if our beekeepers are also experiencing 'colony collapse' as the Americans are. I did see a few native orchard bees and Bumble bees.
    Peace and success in your Evans project.
    Thean
     
  5. dino

    dino Active Member

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    "Has the rain maker rodeo lost its charm?"

    Juries out on that, I guess, Thean. Some like the nice change of having a dry seat in the (un-roofed) grandstand.

    Five years ago (being a frugal fellow), I gathered one-year shoots of riverine willow very early and made a pailful of willow water, doing as directed here (which pretty well covers willow water):
    <http://www.texasroserustlers.org/articles/willow.html>

    It worked, as I recall: I got malus (Dolgo) cuttings to root in my garden. Flushed with success, I transplanted them too early, and killed the delicate roots. =-O The whole lot!
    Perhaps I'll try again next month. Dolgo is a handsome, troublefree tree. Makes good crabapple wine.

    Store-bought rooting powder have I also, which I'll use on the Evans cuttings. It's Schultz. Active ingredient: IBA. I found this page on IBA informative: <http://www.super-grow.biz/IndoleButiricAcidPlantRootingHormone.jsp>

    Thanks for replying, Thean. I think we've pretty well exhausted my propagation queries/comments (for now).

    dino
     
  6. dino

    dino Active Member

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    Location:
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    Five weeks later, things are looking way better than expected.

    New vegetative growth on my Evans Cherry, as on all my prunus trees, seemed a bit retarded. I took three bursts of cuttings from the Evans from June 21 to June 27. The new growth was then only 20 to 25 cm. long. In the same period, I also took cuttings from just about everything else that would stand still: two more kinds of sour cherry, Mayday, & Schubert; three kinds of plum, Dolgo crab, black currant, and mock orange.

    They're all in intense south-facing mid-day light (but not direct sunlight).
    I'm maintaining maximum humidity, misting whenever condensation starts to disappear from the covers.

    The Evans and the black currant cuttings are looking perfect.
    Wherever warranted, I took cuttings from my trees long enough to make two cuttings- and I did (make two). The tip-cuttings are showing most dramatically, with leaf-production. For now, the "second-cuts" are satisfying me if they maintain bright green colour. I'm optimistic they're rooting.

    Most of the others are displaying mostly moderate stress. Mold is threatening to become the major fly-in-the-ointment.
    I found this page (on fungicide) very informative: http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/hort/news/grower/2006/03gn06a2.htm

    After reading that, I found an old bottle of (Laters') Captan powder in my p'izen cabinet.
    ?. I'm going to start misting with a weak solution of Captan tomorrow. Comments, please?
    ?. How long should I keep the cover on and so maintain maximum humidity?

    ?. Finally. I read somewhere that there's no such thing as growth "too-new" from which to take cuttings. I guess until I learn better, I'll plan to take cuttings next year as soon as available, and only tip-cuttings. Comments, please?

    Dino
     

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