There are two branches on my Akane that are crossing and rubbing; obviously one of them will have to go, but which one and how far back should I cut the branch? If different shots are needed to help illustrate (showing more of the tree, etc), I can take more. Thanks!
Thanks K4! I'm going to see how the tree looks once fully leafed out before I cut (will wait until May/June), just to make sure, but that is the direction I was leaning as well.
I would probably go with the smaller branch back to the main stem, too. The only thing that would make me go with the bigger branch is if it looks like it is going to be a problem down the road. Sometimes taking a bigger branch is better when it's small if it's going to affect the look later. When I look visually at the entire tree in your first shot, the larger one sort of sticks out, but it's always hard to tell in a picture, even though yours are really good. I kind of need to look at all angles before making a decision. Kay
My thoughts exactly! The smaller branch is off to a good start with smaller spacing between buds and it’s starting to have more diverse branching. The thicker branch does look aggressive, like it was a big push of growth from last season. But I feel you need to look back to last season too. How has the tree grown in the past? Looking at the growth pattern of the smaller branch, it seems to follow suit with the rest of the tree. Where the thicker branch does not. (again, I only have a picture to go by). Also make sure that the smaller branch is sustainable in its current direction. It sucks when you decide to keep something, only to realize it’s a problem later. Review this once the tree has leafed out, compare the health of the two branches, and make sure both are true to form (the thicker branch could be a reversion or it may have larger leaves, which is not desirable in my opinion).
Dougie, if I do cut, the smaller branch is probably the way to go. However... Exactly. It is so hard to get a true sense of the tree from static pictures that only show one angle or viewpoint. Typically, like everyone else has said, you prune away the smallest offending branch, but I'm not entirely sure that is the best thing in this case, hence my hesitation. I was looking at the tree again this morning, and I *think* I may have a better solution, at least for now until the tree puts on more growth. I will wire both main branches and 'push' them out slightly; this, I think, will ultimately give better overall shape and help broaden the crown some (it is very upright and narrow at this point, but it is a young tree). Obviously, it is easier to wire before the leaves come out, but at this stage, with the sap starting to flow, the branches could be more brittle than they would be later in the season... I will try to get some more/better shots later today to help show the tree better.
Whenever I am faced with a tough pruning decision, I let Mango decide. He always has great instincts when it comes to pruning. (Since Mango will not be making it to Wichita, KS anytime soon, please see my advice in the post above).
LOL. I have 'helpers' too when it comes to pruning, though they don't always make the best choices (see attached). :) I've attached more pictures of the Akane from a few different angles. Unfortunately, I can't speak to the past growth habits as I only got the tree last summer. The first picture shows the full tree; the second is from the same angle, but showing a close-up of the branches in question (circled). Third and fourth show the full tree, a quarter turn clockwise each. Fifth, sixth and seventh shots show the crown from the top down; fifth showing as-is (branches in question circled), sixth showing moving out only one branch, seventh showing both branches being moved out (the best solution, I think). Would it be safe to wire the two branches now, and only move them slightly, and then move them more (if necessary), once fully leafed out? So much easier to wire when the are no leaves, but right now I know the branches can be more brittle...
I don't like to wire this time of year for a couple of reasons. The first, as you mentioned, the branches are too brittle. You run risk of breaking the branch you are wiring and any small branches that you bump into during the process. Second, as the buds swell, leaf out, and the tree starts growing in early spring, so do the branches. They grow by thickening during this time of the growing season in addition to adding length. You run risk of the wire damaging and scaring the bark. It happens very quickly during the first part of the growing season. If you have wire on during this time, you almost have to check it weekly to make sure it is not cutting into the bark. In my area, I wait until after the tree is done with its first push of growth, before wiring. It's always a good idea to wire instead of pruning and removing a branch, whenever possible, in my opinion. Like surgeons’, I think sometimes we are too quick to cut, because it’s an easy solution. But it’s a nice idea to explore other solutions, before removing the branch. But not everyone has these other solutions in their bag of tricks, so then it’s easier to just prune and move on. Very cool dogs! The white one is especially beautiful! I am sure they are great at keeping the "tree rats" off the maples.
There is a lot going on in this little area of conflicting branches. So hard to say for sure that I fully understand what's going on from the pictures. Something very simple in person appears complex from one dimensional photos. But if I think I am seeing things correctly, redirecting the branches via wiring may be a good solution to resolve the conflict and fill in an open area within the tree. Here is a picture. As mentioned before, look at it from all angles. Get down to eye level with the problem area and analyze the situation to find a viable solution to redirect the branches. Then step away from the tree to make sure things are in balance from a distance. (be sure to see my post #10 above and this post #11, it's a two post response)
Hadn't thought about the wire cutting into swelling branches... Thanks for reminding me of that. Though it will be more of a pain, I will probably wait to wire until later this spring. Loken (the Siberian Husky) does love to go after the squirrels, as does Doppler (Belgian Tervuren). :) Doppler actually caught one the other day, though it did get away - stupid thing jumped down from the tree right in front of her, trying to get away from 2 other squirrels in the tree.
This is exactly what I was thinking (ie, your notes on the pictures I posted). I think it will ultimately give better shape to the tree, helping to broaden the crown, and I won't have to sacrifice any branches (at least for now).
