The Owari($49) will wait until next year (due to spousal restrictions!!!) The Nagami ($59 ?)and the Owari were in a monrovia pots. i'm not sure if it was a bush or patio variety I will check it out - maybe tomorrow. both were 2 or 3 gallon size. I am trying to get a avocado and try that ( Spousal approval - she likes guacomole !) see other thread Greg
Thanks, Greg. No need to go check. I called earlier today and was told it's a Centennial kumquat bush ($55).
Greg, did you ever check out Bob and Verna Duncan's citrus inventory? I noticed they have an interesting selection, including a number of less common hardy citrus varieties.
No I havent checked them out ...do you have some contact information for them? You can send me a private message if you like. I would be interested in what they have. When do you bring you citrus indoors? This has been an interesting summer for me and my plants - I wish I had started on this citrus kick sooner... Cheers, G.
They're on the web, barely, as Fruit Trees and More. E-mail them and they'll send you a list of what's available. The following hardy citrus appears in the list: Dunstan Citrumello hardy grapefruit Ichang Papeda hardy lemon Khasi Papeda hardy lemon Kwano Natsu Daidai hardy orange Thomasville Citrangequat Yuzu Ichandarin hardy orange Shangjuan hardy grapefuit Ten Degree Tangerine No help here - my citrus are always indoors
Thanks very much for the info! I have sent them a e mail and I am waiting for a reply. Ten degree tangerine sounds like one worth trying and maybe a hardy orange. I want something quite palatable (my Calamonedens are quite tart but the kids love em) The swweter the better. Right now I am not into making marmelade.... Can anyone lead me in the right direction with these (or other) hardy citrus? (Zone 8a) Thanks, Greg
Re: Lemons Please could you say at what piont citrus trees should be producing friut? We have an orange tree that has fruit the size of walnuts and there is about 20 so far, but our lemon tree is not doing anything other than growing. They are both approx 35" tall by about 30" wide and are both in large ceramic pots, with ample drainage. Thankyou
Mikkie, this past june i bought 2 lemons myself a 1 gallon Eureka and a 2 gallon Meyor (the meyor is not a true lemon) My Eureka does not have fruit, but my meyor has 6 lemons on it. Some citrus from what I understand, take untill year 3 to start producing. Are your lemons outside? or are they indoors? By the way,(anyone who is interested !) I have been in touch with McKenzie Farms in S Carolina - they produce hardy citrus - They can supply a Phyto sanitary certificate so us canadians CAN import his trees into canada (Although, I will be getting my citrus shipped to a parcel depot it Point Roberts WA and i will bring it through the border myself with the phyto certificate) This is one of 3 companies that provide this service to canadians for a nominal fee : AUTHORIZED SHIPPING OUTLET THE LETTER CARRIER 145 TYEE DR POINT ROBERTS, WA 98281 360-945-0515 I was looking at a 10 degree tangerine, hardy tangerine and a hardy citrumelo. Here are the plant descriptions........Does anyone have thoughts on these varieties? Especially for our Vancouver (BC) climate? Here are their descriptions: Ten Degree Tangerine: The Ten Degree tangerine certainly lives up to its name. My tree has never been exposed to 10 F but has sailed thru a night of 13 F with flying colors. Tree is very thorny but produces good crops of tangerines with a somewhat sweet/tart flavor. The ten degree tangerine was developed in Texas and has Yuzu and some other mandarins in its bloodline. Sweet mandarin type citrus. Cold hardy up to a protected zone 8 climate. Hardy Tangerine - Cuttings from this plant also come from South Carolina and has survived 0 degrees and with no damage whatsoever. This definitely worth trying in a warmer/protected zone 7b climate. A sure winner in a non protected zone 8 climate!! Hardy Citrumelo - A hybrid citrus plant which is a cross between a grapefruit and a very hardy citrus relative called Poncirus Trifoliata. Poncirus trees have been planted and thrive in very cold areas up to usda zone 5. Citrumelo's are reliably hardy up to USDA zone 8a, but definitely worth trying in warmer zone 7b areas. The flavor is that of a white grapefruit
Nikkie..OH forgot a couple of key questions...was your plant started from seed? If so it may take 10 years to produce fruit - if ever. This is a intesting read...Citrus 101 from Sunkist http://www.sunkist.com/products/how_citrus_trees.asp
As it turns out Mckenzie farms has to treat the plants with a product called Talstar. At this time Stan The Citrus Man regretably can't / wont go through with the expense and presumably the time to phyto the plants. He has been very helpful and if I were living stateside I would buy from him in a heartbeat. Has anyone in the northwest had success with these hardy citrus? Greg
i just purchased an Ichange Lemon and a Taichange Lemon from Stan McKenzie. In fact I will be seeing Stan next month at the Southeast Citrus Expo on November 14th. in South Carolina. Stan is now growing approximately 60 different varieties of cold hardy citrus. Not all the varieties are shown on his web site. - Millet
Here is the latest list from the misses home collection. I've added to my small collection also in the last year as well. All of these below are, for the most part, easily obtainable around here. All of the Citrus below except the Encore are in 15 gallon containers or soon will be. SD = semi-dwarf, D = dwarf. Having the three forms of Sanguinelli was done by design as they should be different forms based on their naming from the source nurseries. In the olden days based on the names they were different, selected forms. We'll be more certain of what we have later. Jim Lemons Berna SD Femminello SD Femminello Ovale 'Santa Teresa' SD Meyer Lemon D Pink Variegated (Eureka) D Primofiore SD Seedless Lisbon SD Limes Bearss Seedless D Kaffir D Mexican Lime D Palestine Sweet Lime D Mandarins Daisy SD Encore SD Fortune SD Fremont D Gold Nugget SD Kinnow D Murcott D Owari Satsuma D Page SD Pixie SD Seedless Kishu SD Tahoe Gold SD W. Murcott (Afourer) D Tangor Ortanique SD Oranges Cara Cara Pink Navel D Hamlin Sweet SD Midknight Valencia SD Newhall Navel SD Parent Washington Navel SD Seedless Valencia SD Skaggs Bonanza SD Trovita SD Blood Oranges Moro SD Sanguinella D Sanguina Doble Fina SD Sanguinello SD Tarocco SD Tarocco #7 SD The above list has been updated as of 04/19/07/.
Jim, your getting to be quite a collector. Tell me, do you know what the term "Fina" means in citrus varieties? I notice you have a Sanguina Double "Fina", and in my collection I have a Clementine "Fina" Sodea." - Millet
Fina should mean fine but how it is used is what is confusing such as doble fina - double fine. What is that supposed to mean? Then we can take fine one step further and realize there is a Doublefine Ameliorée as a name for a Blood Orange. The Clementina Fina Sodea came into UCR in 1987 from Morocco and the Clementina Fina came to UCR in 1990 from Spain. Who else is involved with the naming? Why all of sudden start calling an old Clementine a Clementina and what is the reasoning behind it? You may have to ask someone at UC Riverside or if need be UC Davis and get an answer as to the history of the Clementina Fina Sodea. Look at page 47 of the link below (it is about a 7 megabyte file to open). It seems the Sanguina Doble Fina was also grown in the same trials at Lindcove as Clementina Fina Sodea was as well as a couple more Clementinas, along with some of the Italian Lemons. ANR Research and Extension Centers: 2003 Annual Report Jim
Here is a question on propagating citrus from cuttings.... I have allowed some suckers to grow from 'below the graft' for the purposes of growing my own rootstock for future expansion. Now in the last 5 to 6 weeks the suckers have grown to about 30 cm in length and I think it is about time to try and root them. They are trifoliate suckers although one looks like it may be the flying dragon strain. The wood is thin and thorns are soft and pliable. I have 2 types of rooting hormone a #1 for soft wood and a # 2 for semi hard wood. which type is best to use for rooting this type of citrus? What about other types ? What type of soil should I use? Any other tips on this would be appreciated. Thanks Greg
Jim, I am searching for the ideal Sanguinella blood orange tree. I had a dwarf variety in Santa Rosa, CA but it never increased in size over a period of four years despite appropriate care. Now I am living in the slightly warmer south San Jose area, and would like to try again. I think I would like a standard-size tree this time. Is there any particular rootstock or grower that you would recommend? I know there are many wholesale citrus nurseries in the Visalia area, but I will need to locate a retail outlet as I am only in the market for a single tree.
Lifespeed, I do not think you will receive a response from Jim (Mr. Shep), unfortunately Jim no longer posts on this forum. I think you can find the Sanguinella that you are looking for at Menlo Growers, 11605 New Avenue, Gilroy, (408) 683-4862. Menlo Growers have a very large selection of citrus varieties, plus many other types of fruit trees. BTW I rather like your screen name "Lifespeed." The older one gets, the truer the name becomes. - Millet
Millet, Thanks for the tip. Indeed they do have Sanguinella blood orange on standard rootstock. Apparently freeze-wounded, but still alive. What is it with the "dwarf epidemic"? So hard to find standard-size trees these days.
Millet, another question for you...I had a couple of changsha manderins that I saved for Christmas harvest. Also, (all 2 fruit!!!) seemed to ripen just fine, they changed colour late september and held on the tree until Boxing Day (Dec 26) Do they need less heat than other manderins? ( I've had them in my garage from Oct 30...) They were very sweet and well worth growing. I am looking forward to a larger crop this year! I started germinating the seeds right away and they are now starting to sprout. I understand they grow true from seed - so what age could one expect to see flowers and fruit? Greg
Hi Greg, I do not know if the Changsha requires more or less heat than other mandarins. My guess would be that it probably requires about the same amount of heat to mature the fruit. A Changsha seed (your tree must not be a Seedless Changsha) should produce fruit 4-5 years from seed germination, provided the tree's cultivation is kept up summer and winter. BTW a month or so ago, you asked me if I had a Seedless Changsha. I think (not sure) I told you that I did not have one, however, I found one in my greenhouse today. Guess I have to many varieties to keep track of all of them, or I'm getting to old to remember things. Probably the latter. Lastly, if you do not have a Fremont Mandarin, you might try to obtain one. It is a good tree and the fruit is DELICIOUS. - Millet
Here I was hoping that I could just do a yearly update of the misses mini collection (and not get caught) using an Edit button but I guess I waited too long to come back into this thread a year later for that to happen. Citrus since the last edit on 4/19/07. Lemons Corpaci SD Monachello SD Limes Mexican Sweet Lime D Oranges Fukumoto SD Pineapple Sweet SD Specialty Cocktail SD Indio Mandarinquat D Melogold SD Sarawak SD
Is anyone else here growing Citrus in the tropics? Here's what I've got so far, but I'm afraid that my true lemon bush may succumb to a number of nasty bugs. I'll oil it next time it gets sunny, and hope for the best, I guess. I'm not entirely sure of which cultivars I've got.... They are all full-size trees, about 3-5 years old, and most of them are producing. Lemons True lemon Sweet lemon Oranges Sweet orange Bitter orange Navel orange Blood orange Satsuma mandarin Mandarina (another mandarin that is not Satsuma) Limes Key lime Tahiti lime Kaffir lime Mexican lime Limon Dulce (Sweet lime) Limon Agrio (Bitter lime) Limon Rojo (Red lime) Things that are not Lemons, Limes, or Oranges Red grapefruit White grapefruit Pummello Toronja (hybrid orange grapefruit) Citrumelo Tangerine Poncirus
Myself Im not in the tropics. I would not add any oil based to the tree when the sun is out. It;s best to add on a cloudy day.
Ah then. All of the citrus growers here do it in full sun, since here cloudy = it will rain in the next 30 minutes.