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Discussion in 'Maples' started by Keeb's, Jul 10, 2005.
A "search", in the title bar top of this page, for "seaweed" might bring up some info.
I did a search on seaweed and there are plenty of posts but there are none saying what the composition is.
To further confuse me, this post http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=31337 in particular #4 by spookiejenkins, says to treat the sick maple with seaweed daily and don't fertilize.
So is it a fertilizer or not?
Have a look here
I use Nitroposka blu special of Compo in start spring 4Kg for big trees is no slow cession for some maples i use Osmocote for acid plants ...when plant maples i use fertilize natural of cow or hourse.
I have used Aggrand for at least 14 years and I find it to be an excellent product. It contains kelp, fish, bloodmeal and sulfate of potash. The fish that is use is called menhaden, which has a very short life cycle and therefore has very low levels of man made toxins. They also add fulvic acid as a secret ingredient. The NPK ratio is 4-3-3 it may be the best all around natural fertilizer.
I am considering stopping the use of fish emulsions and I have already stopped eating saltwater fish. As to the menhaden the agriculture and the pet food business have become overly dependence on menhaden and the populations are beginning to be decimated. So I may just start using a non fish product like Espoma Plant Tone, which may be more complete in nutrients yet it will lack the biological action and hormones in Aggrand.
http://www.altrumonline.com/AltrumStore/nof.aspx > this is a link about Aggrand
I haven't read all the postings but found mr Shep's most educational as well as the others.
When I asked about fertilizing my Crimson Queen which has been in a wine barrel for over 5 years, I was asked if it was the only thing in it with the maple. I also have tulips and Johnson's blue hardy geranium as well.
I never really thought of fertilizing it as in the past I've been afraid to fertilize for fear of burning, etc. But it has done quite well with giving it water from my koi pond and added leaf mulch either by me or the honey locust tree it is grown under while on the deck.
But it was suggested I use 18-18-18 or same 20-20-20. Due to the other plants in the barrel. It has done fine and has even faired well with the males in the family using the BBQ gas grill right next to the tree's leaves and getting them very hot, that I had to think twice about what was happening to my tree's leaves....since then the bbq has been moved, only because I insisted.
I did have a question on why not one shouldn't amend the soil in the planting hole.
As I've been improving the drainage, etc. since my soil is more clay and needs some amending. So could someone clarify this for me?
To not fertilize is always the best option if everything is doing well, why fix something that isn't broke. My only suggestion will be listed at the end of my post, neither amendment is a fertilizer per say.
As you already know a soil test results will always give you a good answer. But that takes time and is a bit of trouble. I personally have used the Dynamite time release 13-13-13 chemical fertilizer w/ good results and used sparingly on mapes. I read somewhere that maple did not like ammoniacal nitrogen and for good reason, being Calcium Nitrate was the man made preferred nitrogen. All this aside Maples don't need much of anything other then what you are giving them and do best with organic slow to breakdown fertilizers used very sparingly.
If I were to recommend anything other then what you are already doing it would be to add a bit of rock phosphate, (what is rock phosphate):http://www.espoma.com/content.aspx?type=p&intCategoryID=2&id=18 and some humic shale. What is Humic Shale look up: http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=humic shale&r=5.
The humate will break up the clay, make the phosphate availible to the plant and it makes for a happy soil environments and, will benefit the plants and soil to a degree that it would be impossible to post them all here. Here is a link on the topic of humic acids and the vital roles they play: http://www.richearth.net/WhatIsHumate.php
On second thought the fish pond water most is likely full of phosphates, and phosphorus so skip the rock phosphate idea, it certainly has enough nitrogen, as fish do pee in there water so it is a pretty well balanced fertilizer in it's own right perfect for feeding a maple in a pot. I think just put in a hand full of raw humic shale, that is if you took the time to read why, heck if you are brave enough to send me your address I will send it to you, and ten others if they want it, I have five hundred pounds out in the barn. Sorry I can't send it out of the US as it cost too much, aye O Canada.
Petrochemical fertilizers are always a poor choice if you can do better. Just ask anyone using Chem o lawn.
For maples in containers I try and make some teas over the growing season. Using kelp/worm castings/manures i make batches on and off through the spring and summer and use the garden hose to supplement.
Somtimes i give a dilute dose of cactus liquid food 2-4-4. If a plant is really stuck i use dilute miracid.
in the FAQ "how plant a maple" Ron B.write the answer very well !
Now is some of this additives you linked us to, a form of perlite or Epsom Salt. I know about epsom salt to add to my clematis when the leaves are not greening up.
I've also read about perlite helping the roots get what they need also.
No, none of my links refer to espom salt or perlite. Both epsom salt and perlite have their own specific advantages, but in two very different ways. The use of epsom salt and humic shale have some things in common but those commonalities are limited. Epsom Salt is magnesium sulfate, a highly soluble form of magnesium, a component of the chlorophyll molecule, thus greener leaves.
Humic Shale contains 1.5 % sulfur, 2.5% Iron, and 70+ trace minerals. However the primary benefit would be the plentiful supply of the three humic acids. Without an understanding of how nutrients are made available to plants, it would be difficult for me to explain the role of humic acids in detail today. I can do that later if you would like, you may not find it in my links and it may not even be on the net, I don't know.
I first found a reference on this topic in: Soil-Plant Relationships, by C.A. Black (New York: John Wiley & Son, 1957) so I am not talking about anything new here, it is basic stuff.
To put it simply, organic matter is the store house of nutrients for which plants depend. The humic plus carbonic acids provides the spark that sets many life giving processes in motion. Now some will ask the question what comes fist the the chicken or the egg, and yes it is the chicken. I did say simply, so lets not go there.
This is how nature set it up, man often circumvents nature, but a price is paid as in pharmaceuticals there will be side effects.
Epsom salt is very good stuff for humans as well, even more so then for plants. If plants need it, you can bet we do too. The vast majority of us are deficient in magnesium and calcium strips us of it as well, so do yourself a favor and take a long soak in good old magnesium sulfate because you need it, and thats a fact jack.