Propagation: basic nutrient question about containers

Discussion in 'HortForum' started by Grooonx7, May 9, 2013.

  1. Grooonx7

    Grooonx7 Active Member

    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Vancouver, Canada
    We have a small balcony which we attempt to modify into a beautiful garden. On almost no monetary budget, we do what we can with salvaged castaways and various orphans; sometimes things look quite good.

    Our containers, we know, are invariably too small for the plants they contain. We have two rectangular plastic planters mounted on the balcony railing, and we have a number of big plastic pots on the balcony floor.

    At the moment, all of our plants are thriving, with clematis and fuschias growing by leaps and bounds.

    But surely there is a danger of their growing beyond the nutrient capacity of the soil in their containers—or so I would think. So I've been dribbling in water solutions containing Schultz Plant Food 20-30-20. My inexpert theory is that it might be possible to thereby partly compensate for the plants having only limited space for their needs.

    This is all very unscientific. No measurements; only guesses. But I don't want to see the plants' present luxuriant growth suddenly "run out" of available nourishment and suddenly die back.

    Am I on the right track, or is my guessing quite wrong?

    Thank you.
     
  2. Konachick

    Konachick Active Member

    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Metro Vancouver Area
    Hi Grooonx7, I too am not an expert, but I thought I'd share what I do as I've been growing vegetables in containers on my balcony the last few years with some success. Generally, I supplement N-P-K fertilizers with soil amendments that will also add trace nutrients that may become depleted if only nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are added via traditional fertilizers. Every year, I incorporate dry fertilizer (it's labelled 'organic' but who knows!) and high quality compost, like SeaSoil, into my containers. In addition, I have begun to add rock dust, bone meal, and lime in small quantities. Rock dust adds the trace minerals. Bone meal is just because I grow root vegetables, so it adds extra phosphorus. Dolomite lime because containers can get very acidic with the amount of rain we get here in Vancouver, and some of my containers have started to grow moss. I also feed with fish emulsion (stinky!) through the season. All this might be overkill for flowers... I'm not sure because I really only grow veggies. Hope this is helpful, and again, I'm not an expert but this has been working for me. Happy gardening!
     
  3. Grooonx7

    Grooonx7 Active Member

    Messages:
    167
    Likes Received:
    6
    Location:
    Vancouver, Canada
    Thank you, Konachick. Your balcony must be spectacular. We're in the West End, and we walk (miles and miles; love walking) through the alleyways here and sometimes marvel at some people's success with their balconies. I'll follow your suggestions about preparing the soil to compensate for the constraints of containers.

    Thank you very much.
     
  4. Cearbhaill

    Cearbhaill Member

    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Kentucky USA Zone 6b
    The theory I have heard- and I am not a "soil-ologist"- is that organic amendments require various and sundry soil organisms in order to break them down into forms that plants can actually use. Potting mix bought in a bag is sterile and does not contain these organisms like back yard soil does. So using organic amendments in potting mix will not benefit plants immediately like water soluble plant food- meaning that bone meal mixed into potting mix can take upwards of a year to break down while a water soluble high phosphorous food is available immediately.
    Well, in a year I will have repotted already! I need my plants to be nourished today.

    I use a Dyna Grow (either Foliage pro or Bloom) water soluble plant food on all of my potted plants in a very weak solution every time I water. Say about quarter strength. Seems to work well.

    I am a die hard organic gardener (and eater) but since I heard this theory and stopped using blood and bone meal etc. in my potted plants I swear they are doing much better.

    As I said I am not a soil professional, so I relate all this on an anecdotal basis.
    Just something to think about and maybe follow up research on if it makes sense/interests you.
     
  5. Konachick

    Konachick Active Member

    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Metro Vancouver Area
    Hi Cearbhaill, that's a good point about the need for beneficial micro organisms to be present in order to break down some amendments. I think the combo I use works for me because my primary 'soil' is compost which does contain those micro organisms, and this year I started using earthworm castings too, which also adds microbes. I also have earth worms and other soil fauna that find their way into most of my containers.

    I'm not a soil expert either, but I agree with your logic that if sterile mixes are used, organic amendments may not be that effective. I guess if a person does want to use these amendments they would have to create the right ecosystem in the container.
     

Share This Page