Hey guys, First time posting, so I apologize if this post is in the wrong section. I recently planted two small trees (Algerine Tangerine & Valencia Orange....about 3weeks ago), but only one seems to be doing well. I've been watering every day, and added some 6-4-6 Vigoro plant food, on the day they were planted. However, as you can see from the pictures the tangerine tree looks horrible, and only the orange tree has stayed green. If it's dying.....can I do anything to save it? I also don't suspect this is normal for the tangerine tree.....correct? http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/eduran/IMG_20120130_110342.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/eduran/IMG_20120130_110319.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/eduran/IMG_20120130_110402.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y111/eduran/IMG_20120130_110428.jpg
I don't know what the problem is but the trees should not be watered every day, more so for the mandarin since it has lost the function of so many leaves. I suggest watering only when the soil has had a chance to dry out somewhat and not applying any more fertilizer until they start to recover. Some wild shots in the dark: The mandarin has a large air pocket under the root ball. Shock due to shipment in the cold (but then you would think the orange would be similarly affected). The mandarin is in a more exposed location in the yard. The orange is next to a wall which retains heat during the day and releases it gradually after sunset. Also, it may be providing protection against cold winds.
Pertaining to the cold wind you mentiond......can this be a factor? I live in an area of southern california, in which high and strong cold winds are common this time of year. If I would take a guess the tempature has been around the low 40 during the night, with a very cold wind gust. Is their anything I can do, or is the tree dying?
I went out today and saw the stems are turning kind of black/browk....all of them. It's probably dead, but I can't figure out why.
Lets say this happened. For next time, in southern california, how much should I be watering, during this time of year. Is it every other day. By the way I was told to water the tree daily for the first 30 days, till it sets its roots. Thought it was right. Our weather has been low 70's during the day, and around 40's in the night. It gets kind of cold, but not compared to other places.
The following document was prepared for an area further up the coast but I think much of the information, including the section on watering, would still be applicable.Citrus for the Home Garden in Contra Costa County (.pdf)
This was most helpfull. Sadly, I think I killed the tree by over watering. I'll know for sure this Saturday when I pull it out. Thanks again
Before pulling it out you could nick the bark on the main stem at various heights to see if the cambium layer is still green. There's still life in it if there's green.
Update....the tree died. It completely turned black and brown...all the stems down to the main trunk. When I pulled the tree out, it did smell, but I couldn't tell if I had over watered it, because I had stopped watering several days prior, so it wasn't moist. I replanted a new one, but this time I'm cutting back on the water, and added vitamin B1 to help lower the initial shock of it being planted on the ground. We'll see how it goes this time.
The Bottom Line • Vitamin B-1, aka thiamine, does not reduce transplant shock or stimulate new root growth on plants outside the laboratory • A nitrogen fertilizer is adequate for transplanting landscape plants; avoid use of “transplant fertilizers†that contain phosphate • Healthy plants will synthesize their own thiamine supply • Healthy soils contain beneficial microbes that synthesize thiamine as well • Difficult-to-transplant species may be aided by application of auxin-containing products in addition to nitrogen, but read the label and don’t add unnecessary and potentially harmful chemicals (this includes organics!) • Adequate soil moisture is crucial for new root growth; be sure to irrigate new transplants frequently and use mulch to reduce evaporation http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda chalker-scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/Vitamin B1.pdf
