Apologies if this cultivar has already his own thread, I couldn't find it. I acquired it around 5 years ago in a small Belgian nursery but it probably comes from Esveld. He struggled badly the first three years, probably due to a weak rootstock or rootsystem and soil, or just my bad care. I almost lost it as he was not growing much and the leaves were drying in summer. I guess it was a 1 or 2 years graft. So 2 years ago I reppoted it in a non organic soil and kept in the shade giving him some organic fertilizer. He finally seems to be growing roots properly and getting some vigor. Last year he made his first lateral branche and I think that this season he is gowing to push some healthy growth, and he will be ready to be ground planted in 2022. As for differences and improvements compared to the cultivar 'kotohime' I cannot tell much so far as it first need to grow properly and need more observation. What I notice this year, having both cultivars sitting next to each other and already leafing, is that the leaves emerge more deeper red even when fully opened with a good vibrant orange in the middle. I also notice that the colors tend to last longer than kotohime before going green. Here are some pictures from today (rained at night and not much sun).
You are right I, this does not have its own thread, but it definatly does now. It is listed in JD Vertrees, but no more than that. You will have to guide us all. Yours has some wonderful colouring and as you say the reds/ orange are vibrant. Kotohime is a little less so IMO. I have Kotohime, so will follow this thread with great interest. Thanks for sharing this one with the forum.
So have I (and so will I). I have an air-layer and the mother-tree. So far, the buds have not opened yet.
I would pull it out, shake the lot holding the tree carefully between the thumb and the two big fingers (inex and major), cut out the fine roots that would dangle down, then replant it in a more "oxygenated" mix (5-7 mm pozzolan or the like) in the same container, but replanting it clockwise so that the "points" get to the middle of the sides.. I'd add some slow-release (6 months) fertilizer too. It needs to fatten, and young trees like to be repotted every year I think.
I agree a repot could be good for him, and even maybe on a smaller pot. But don't you think it is too late to mess with roots as he already leafed out?
I'd do it. I'm pretty sure that even if you cut out 1/3rd of the roots it will recover. Don't blame me if you do it and it dies, but frankly, I wouldn't hesitate. And I'm 99.9% sure it would survive, and thrive.
@Shin-Deshojo, Alain is a lot braver than me, but he is far more experienced than me in the Bonsai world. Good luck with your choice I.
I have no doubt that A is experimented enough to give me that advice and altghout I respect him...I won't touch the tree this year, it already struggled enough when I acquired it and I have a good feeling about his vigor coming back this year. Also it is an ornamental tree for the garden, not planning to bonsai it, I know my pictures can be confusing as I mix my ornamentals and my bonsais. I am honestly more attracted by japanese maples growing wild in the garden, but doing bonsai complement them and it's addictive. But I need to limit them as it's a lot more work and care.
A very spoilt little tree in the greenhouse and 'Why Not'. Your basket is the same size as mine I, that's put my mind at rest. I love the tight branching you are getting. Years of Bonsai practice obviously.
Thank you D, If you refer to the shin kotohime about thight branching, I have never pruned it or did anything special except feeding, it is more the basket and soil that helps the tree develop well. It's also a dwarf japanese maple but you obviously know it. No bonsai technique used here.
