Hi everyone, this is my first post on this forum, but I have been reading many posts over few months and think this is a great forum! Now I have a question in regards to my key lime tree. I purchased a key lime just this past October which was about 16" tall in a 6" pot, with a few fruits just starting. I took it home and transplanted it into a 15" pot. From the direction of the nursery, I added triple mix and mixed in dried clay which I am told promotes healthy skin on my fruits. I was also directed to mix in "Smartcote" time release hanging basket food 14-14-14. I water approx once every 1-2 weeks when it looks dry. The fruits that were on my tree fell off within a few weeks of transplant, which didn't surprise me, I figured transplant shock, but aside from that my plant seems extremely healthy. It is now approx 20" tall and very bushy. Now my here is my question. My plant has now fully flowered twice, and is now beginning to flower for its third time, but everytime the fruits begin to grow they seem to dry up and fall off within a few weeks. Is this normal? Or is it due to being over watered?
When you say it looks dry, do you test for dryness in the potting medium as deep as 7-12 cm? And what size of pot did you transplant it from? Citrus roots in general never like to remain moist, I believe is key to successful citrus harvests... there may be many other variables affecting the blossom drop... levels of humidty... too low? near a heat source? daylight exposure? minimum heat levels? Do not encourage growth in the winter by using fertilizer, as it is winter time here, though in my experience, the Kumquats decide to grow in January for me?! A dry spell is good for Citrus, between waterings... next you could be loosing the foiliage... not so good... try not to pamper it... the "Smartcote" may be the culprit/ problem... something I would never use in a potted citrus medium.
(First off, hi K Baron thanks for your help with my Tiboucinas) second, I agree with K Baorn, you don't need to be fertilizing in winter. It's ok if it's dropping fruit, the poor tree can't possibly produce every lime so it needs to drop some. This is especially true for young trees. If you want fruit, I suggest you overwinter it by just letting the soil dry (not too much) and then giving it a big drink, then letting it dry again, and not doing much more. I think if you're worried about over-watering or under-watering the results would show up more in the leaves than in the fruit. If the leaves start dropping then it means either stated above (you would know) or that the roots are kept too cold. The fruits will most probably start growing in the summer when you put it outside and the bees can get to them.
Citrus are self pollinating, so bees shouldn't make a whole lot of difference. It could just be that the plant is still young and testing itself to see what it can hold. If the growing conditions are not right, it won't hold the fruit, so assess water, light and humidity. With the fertilizer you have used, you may end up with excess salts in the soil. You should be aiming for 5-1-3 NPK ratio. Perhaps trying flushing the pot to get rid of it all, and buy a water soluble fertilizer you can give when watering in controlled amounts. Also, ensure fertilizer contains trace elements eg boron, copper, iron etc which can be important in the plants development.
well i would say citrus is self fertile not self pollinating it still needs wind or insect to distribut the pollen. since it is cold there and will be a while before you can put the plant outside you could try hand pollinting some of the blooms and just see if that will help it to hold fruit. just a thought i am no expert
Self fertile, thats what I meant. Mine are indoors and don't get hand pollinated and are loaded with fruit. Think the plant just needs time to mature, and a check on the fertilizer.
Most slow-release fertilizers react to heat and humidity, so you already provided great conditions for your tree. Citrus love warm dry weather, present at any house during winter. Keep it away from air currents [heating vents]. To avoid spider mites, spry it with tap water (fill a container with drinking water and allow at least one day for the Clorox to evaporate before use). As suggested before flush your pot; lift it from the bottom saucer by placing tree or four small objects in between the pot and the saucer (rocks), in this way you will never over-water it. It works for me! see attachments
