Just slip potted this weeping waterfall and noticed these cracks on the top of the bark on both sides. Both the trees in my front yard developed that yellow growth on them, but this cracking appearance has me more concerned. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated thanks!
I would be far more concerned about the cracks on your Waterfall JM. To my eye, the yellow bits look like lichen and hopefully not related to the more serious problem. Compare to photos of yellow lichen on Acer palmatum on the web.
Hi @Margot I am concerned about the cracks I’m not sure why or what’s happening. Hopefully the slip potting will help strengthen it
Yes, Lisa, I'd be pretty worried about that too. Hopefully others who have had more experience with that problem will weigh in with good advice.
Good morning Lisa, this is so common on older maples, it's just showing it's age. The only thing to consider is if water gets trapped between the bark and sits there causing rot. Then some surgery might be needed. But I would suggest just keeping an eye on that branch and if you see any leaves starting to die, then that branch may have to be removed. Just to add, I have seen maples with far more damage go on for years and years with no adverse effect on the tree. And tbh battle scars do give them character IMO. D
Incidentally it looks like you still have it staked -- any reason why? I feel like some people just forget to remove the stakes after a few years, and while you often can't see it while the tree is leaved, it really detracts from the winter interest.
I'll chime in, I think the cracking occurred because the original pruning cut was too low, so that as it dried, it damaged the living bark beneath it. The good news is, this happened a while ago, it's recovered and will be fine. However, I'd cut the stub down to the branch collar at this point (after the June flush), so that the bark can heal better. The rotting stub will eventually leave a hole beneath it, which will lose you that top branch. Generally with A. palmatum types, on smaller branches prune to leave a 3cm stub; on larger branches prune to the root collar. Your stub wasn't big enough. Re staking, it's also bad for the tree, so that after training (for a dissectum) stakes should be removed. Staking isn't usually necessary for dissectums beyond training, unless your in moorland! -E
Hi @MapleZen it is I got it last year and never removed the stake cause it’s broken at the rootball. I’m going to try to remove it later. Wasn’t sure if it was still needed
So @emery i just got this orangeola and slip potted it. It had a small this stake but kept falling over I added a larger one cause I was hoping to raise its shape otherwise it really tips over. What are your thoughts? Please see pics below of pre potting and after.
I don't think there's anything wrong with staking up maples briefly -- in fact, it's necessary with some cultivars like ryusen unless you just want a pile of leaves spread out on the ground. But in general, I don't leave stakes in for more than a year.
Good morning Lisa, hope you don't mind me chipping in here. Regarding staking your maple. If it needs it to give it support for how you want to grow it, then go for it. I find that staking is necessary for around two years until the trunk can support the branches, I see that @MapleZen will do one year and that is OK too. But it may take a little longer or less time. There is definatly Not a cut off point where you must remove it. This is totally up to your observations of how the maple is doing IMO. D
Yes, I agree with the others, I'll stake for training for a year or two. Trees fresh from the nursery sometimes have tops too big for their bottoms (as it were!) and want to fall over. Like a tree in a very windy environment, you have to stake it the time it takes for the roots to get a grip, otherwise gravity will take over. By all means, stake the orangeola to support and train it how you want, for the time it takes to hold it's form and attitude.
@Lisa Harry. That sounds good Lisa. Only you know how your trees are progressing, so stakes in or out when they are ready. D
So my JM Weeping Waterfall has a couple bright leaves I am not sure why or if I should be concerned? It appears healthy otherwise.
Now that maybe a sign that the branch they are on is beginning to fail Lisa. Waterfall should not be that colour. Is there any discolouration of the branch, ie a yellow/ orange colour? As you rightly say the rest looks very healthy, so this might be a small section that you might lose.
I don’t think anything out of the ordinary but I attached a couple more pictures.. You will notice there is some lightening on the top overall, I did provide fertilizer earlier in the season but not much. Maybe it’s just adjusting from the surgery I did to it last summer?
Agreed Lisa, they do react in various ways after surgery. I would just monitor for a while and do nothing.
Morning D. After further investigation of this tree I believe it is certainly too wet.. every other tree in this area is due for watering but because its going to rain I’ll leave them. It sits in a grow bag that I’ve wanted to get a pot lifter for but haven’t been able to yet. My other smaller grow bags (5 & 10 litres) are on rocks such as this one and doing very well, but I think this being a 30 litre bag is just too large to be placed on this type of surface. So temporarily I placed it on some spaced out wood to allow air flow on the bottom and it already feels like its drying out. I hope I caught it before any real damage occurs, the lightening on the top leaves seems like the leaves are trying to turn red like the other two leaves are currently. Fingers crossed.
OK, too wet is always a bad thing if the water is just sitting there Lisa. Maple roots need to breathe. Even with holes underneath, a grow bag will not get the water draining freely. They have a habit of sealing like a suction cup. So anything you can do now to lift it is a very good idea. I'm glad you placed it on some pieces of wood. This will do the trick. The lightning of a few leaves is a sign of stress. As long as you alleviate the stress it will recover.
Looking at everything I have in grow bags it all is “wet” and most other trees need to be watered or very soon need water. The only grow bags I have that seem to be acting like the trees in nursery pots is my 5 gallon bags that have blue berries and are in full sun and wind section, they also have last years soil. I know @Xi-feng uses grow bags and seems to have good success but maybe she is in a dryer area than myself? Hopefully good weather will dry them out a bit when we ever get it. At some point I think I should pop them into different containers, sooner rather than later.
