Want to transplant the following trees/shrubs...

Hi there,

I have several interersting trees/shrubs in the front yard of my house, but they were planted too close together and not necessarily in the right locations.

I know that one of the plants is a rhodo... but wondering if anyone would like to comment about the ugly holes in the leaves - there is also a white fungus-like growth not clearly seen on the branches.

The pictures are paired as an overview and a closeup except for the last pic which is a nice shrub/tree with small yellow flowers which have just appeared.

I want to transplant them, but I should probably make sure I know for certain what everything is first, and what conditioins (soil, sun, etc.) they will flourish in.

Please see the attached photos...

Any and all comments are welcome!!

Les

 

Winter.

 

Here's a site of common Rhodo problems: http://www.flounder.ca/FraserSouth/basics.asp
Leaf chewing looks like weevil damage, but could also just be caterpillar damage.

 

Identifications:

Knaphill-Exbury Hybrid deciduous azalea
Buxus sempervirens
Hardy Hybrid rhododendron
Euonymus alatus 'Compactus'

All very common, easily grown items (except rhododendron being prone to fungal and insect problems that may become severe enough to spoil its appearance, even though it still grows). All should move successfully dug during dormant season with enough roots.

 

The holes in the leaves are probably catepillars but root weevils also a big problem with rhodos here in BC. The catepillars are easily taken care of by using BTK (Bacillus thuringiensis var kurstaki), a naturally occuring bacteria found in the soil that essentially breaks down their gut lining effectively killing them. It is safe for kids and pets and has a very short residual effect - approximately 24 hours.

Root weevils are a little bit more difficult to get rid of. Regular pesticides will not work because they have to be applied directly to the weevil and you cannot spray them while they are tunnelling out your roots and stems! There are sprays that you can use that such as Borer and Weevil Killer made by Wilsons that kill weevils and catepillars but are a little bit more toxic and need to be sprayed at certain times (ALWAYS CONSULT THE LABEL BEFORE YOU USE) and contains the organochloride Endosulfan which acts on the nervous system causing convulsions if certain (not quite sure of the exact amount) amounts are inhaled or absorbed through the skin or eyes. Try planting rhodos that are resitant to root weevils such as any of the PJM series of rhodos which have shown an excellent resistance to root weevils.

The white fungus on your plants is powdery mildew and may cause new growth to be stunted or may result in a reduced (in extreme cases non-existent) flower yield. Spray with a jet of water and remove all infected leaves (remember to bag them or burn them so they don't haunt you again!). Safer's also makes a product called Defender, a sulphur based fungicide, that will also cure your problem.

Remember: 'An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure'

 

I have transplanted 100s of rhodies, some 20-30 years old. I have done it in every season. They transplant easily and with a little TLC they will make it whenever you do it. Don't transplant during their growth period which follows blooming.

Rhody roots are shallow and they should be dug out to the perimeter of the plant which is where they will typically end anyway. In older plants, this will be a large root ball, platter-shaped. Use a solution of B1 to help with the transplant shock. Rhodies thrive almost anywhere in the yard, but prefer shade. The larger the leaf, generally the more shade and vice versa. They grow best in light, well-drained soils with good soil aeration and an ample supply of soil moisture during the summer. A soil high in organic matter or humus such as decayed oak leaves, pine needles or other acid-type compost is desirable. I've supplemented with coffee grounds as well.

 

Transplanting Rhodos is easier than one would think. I witnessed this over the past few years when a garden maintenance company came to my place of work and annualy rotated all of the 4-5' plants. They sent the young summer kids to dig up these lovely plants and rotate them 90 degrees clockwise. I asked the kids what they were doing and they were told to make 4 shovel digs, jerk the plant out and stomp it in. I was furious but, I don't own the joint. The result!
They flowered as usual a month later and over the next few years I have seen numerous novice workers repeat the process.
About the edge holes in the leaves-- I stopped that on my own plants by wrapping a couple of bands of masking tape, sticky side out, around the stems at ground level. The insects,bugs, that are eating the edges are in the soil and climb the stalks at night to dine. Try it as a inexpensive experiment and see if you have any beetles stuck to the tape. If so treat the soil and smarter people on this forum,than I, will tell you how.