Types of grafts on maples

I noticed some maples have V shaped cut in the understock and the scion cut to a V shaped maple to insert into it.

While the other kind of graft is both the scion and understock both cut slanted and just placed side by side, sometimes you can see the a "stub" of the understock sticking on one side.

Is the latter a inferior graft and why? It seems you find the latter graft that I described is common on maples sold as one gallon plants, so maybe on the bigger plants they grow to be less noticable?

Thanks

 

Hi,

There are different ways to graft maples. As long as the graft takes and the grafted scion receives nutrients neither are "inferior". Most of my maples are done using the side or veneer graft. I have one maple that was grafted using a top or V graft (Vertrees calls it a cleft graft). The opposite of the V/cleft graft is the saddle graft where the understock is cut to resemble a phillips screwdriver head and the scion is cut to mate to this. It's placed on the understock like a saddle. A variation to the V graft is the Omega graft. A special cutter cuts the understock so that it looks like a keyhole or the greek character for Omega. The scion is cut to mate to this like two puzzle pieces.

Personally based on what I see aesthetically I like the V graft as it looks smoother. However, in Vertrees' book he states that he does not like the cleft (V) graft as it doesn't create as smooth a union as a side/veneer graft.

The type of grafting technique used depends on the propagator. Side grafting allows the grafter to use understock and scion material that doesn't match up caliper-wise. By shifting the smaller scion to one side of the larger rootstock the grafter can line up the cambium layer at least on one side so the graft takes.

The V/Omega graft, unlike side grafting, is usually done with a special cutter (V grafting can be done by hand). The scion and understock have to match up very closely if the union is to take and look good.

Because side grafting is done by hand there is a certain *craftsmanship* involved. There are good looking grafts and poor looking grafts.

Layne

 

Thanks, I am concerned about the different caliper situation with side grafting.

There is usually a stub from the understock sticking out from one side, which eventually just die back it seems. I think this might get worse with age?

I can't see the scion will thicken faster than the understock either so the mismatch is always there.

 

Hi Poor,

Sometimes side grafting is the only way to go as far as grafting is concerned and there will be some mismatching. There are several cultivars that put out thin first/second year growth that's used for scion material that just wont match up quite exactly to seedling understock. This is especially true with the smaller dwarf forms. Also, it is the dwarf forms that may give you some concern with overgrowth of the understock. In cases like these it's best to graft as low on the rootstock as possible to camouflage any mismatch in caliper.

You could do air layering or cuttings, but from a commercial nursery standpoint it may not be economically feasible because of the time involved in growing the cutting or air layer up to a salable size.

As for the stub sticking out the side you can carefully cut this off if it bothers you. Using bonsai concave cutters will make the cut easier to do. When you see the tool you'll understand why. These are great to have especially if you're removing an entire primary or secondary branch. They allow you to prune flush with the bark eliminating or minimizing any unsightly branch stubs or bumps caused by callouse. Do a google on "bonsai tools". If you do decide to get one or a few bonsai tools keep in mind there are good bonsai tools and cheap bonsai tools. The good bonsai tools, if used properly, will almost never need sharpening over their and your lifetime. Stay away from stainless steel tools. They won't take and hold an edge as well and as long as the high carbon steel tools. Use vegetable oil or camellia oil to keep them from rusting.

As far as getting worse with age I think the graft scar usually gets better with age, especially if the graft is done well. There is a mature cultivar at a Buddhist temple in downtown Los Angeles where the graft is hardly noticable. I only know it's grafted because this year there is growth from the understock. I think in most cases only an experienced trained eye like Mr. Shep or MJH can spot a well done graft on a mature tree.

Layne