I obtained this plant from my mother-in-law. No one has been able to tell me what type of plant it is. It was originally just a single stalk (pseudostem?) The original has died off, but a new cluster has grown. I want to repot this one, but without information, I'm not sure what type of soil consistency to use or anything. It currently seems to have a mixture of pebbles and soil, but I'm still not sure. Any help would be wonderful.
looks like it's a philodendron or maybe a monstera. both are aroids and require a very well-draining soil. they like to be consistantly moist - so the soil should be a bit of a mix. i use orchid bark, regular plain soil or cactus mix (which is peat, bark bits, perlite) and i add in some orchid mix (charcoal bits, lava bits, little bit of bark bits, maybe some peat). steve or lara or beth will be by with more info.
I appreciate the prompt reply. I'm trying to get as much information as possible. Since I have not seen any type of flowers or fruit in the past 7 years, I have been having trouble trying to match this plant up. I have a climbing philodendron as well, but this one has been an ache to place. I'm trying to see which species it is. any further help will be much appreciated.
And if you give it a support, it will climb. Meconostigma Philos, although they're sold as "trees" are actually climbers here in their native jungles.
It is certainly a member of Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma but I don't think this is P. bipinnatifidum (selloum) due to the small number of lateral leaf veins (four) beneath the basal rib . In some ways it resembles Philodendron lacerum (Jacq.) Schott which is a species found in Cuba, Haiti, the Dominican Republic and Jamaica. Possibly a hybrid even though it does resemble several species. Can you take a few more photos and post them as well? A good clean shot of both the upper and lower blade surfaces will help so I can accurately count the number of lateral veins and examine the ribs and blade in more detail. Some history will help as well. Do you know where the plant originated? Can you describe the shape of the petiole (support of the leaf blade)? Is it round? Does it have a canal or groove? Multiple grooves or appear to have lines running inside the canal? (Edit: This plant cannot be Philodendron lacerum) The multi-lobed leaf blades of Philodendron lacerum are green to grey-green and are semi-glossy on the upper (adaxial) surface. The underside of the leaf blade (abaxial surface) is a slightly darker green and also has a more glossy appearance than the upper surface. The leaf blades are moderately coriaceous (less than leathery to the touch) and slightly bi-colorous or two colored. The midrib which is the main rib running down the center of the leaf blade is sharply convex and slightly paler on the upper surface. On the underside of the blade the mid-rib is also convex. The petioles (commonly called stems by collectors) are slightly flattened. The stem is the "trunk" of the plant on which you can see both nodes and internodes that separate the nodes. By the way, it is not uncommon for Meconostigma species to need to be older before they produce an inflorescence. These species can stand a fair amount of dry soil but they do appreciate a fast draining soil mix and reasonably bright light. For four or five months a year they will also benefit from more water. If you really want to see it produce a spathe and spadix then I'd keep it outdoors in moderate shade from May until the end of September. If this is Philodendron lacerum you will need to give it something to climb or the chances are slim it will produce an inflorescence. The first two photos below are by by friend Buddy Poulsen of an adult P. lacerum while the last is a juvenile and not yet developed.
Obviously too much egg-nog! It is now 4:30AM and I just sat straight up and almost slapped myself! This can't be Philodendron lacerum because that species is not a member of subgenus Meconostigma. All species in that subgenus are characterized by a "tree-like" (arborescent) stem as seen in your photo and P. lacerum does not have that since it is a vining species. I just sent your photo to three of the top Meconostigma growers in the world so chances are we'll have an ID soon.
I asked three of the world's most knowledgeable Meconostigma growers about this plant and received two different opinions. Joep Moonen in French Guiana said this resembles Philodendron saxicola but we all agree since that is a very rare species the chances are unlikely. The other responses from Leland Miyano in Hawaii and Julius Boos in Florida were this is likely a very juvenile Philodendron bipinnatifidum. I didn't believe that was possible in the beginning due to the characteristics of the blade but after carefully looking at your photos now agree. I blew up the photo showing the petioles and can see a canaliculate depression on the upper surface which is indicative of P. bipinnatifidum. Since you said this plant is 7 years old why would it still be juvenile? The answer lies in the way it is grown. Aroid species are very variable and morph a great deal as they change from the juvenile to adult leaf forms. The specimen appears to be in poorly draining soil and also appears to have been grown indoors, probably under reduced light. Please don't be offended by this response since sometimes people feel I am talking down to them if plants are not grown properly. This plant really appears to be starving for some better growing conditions. This is part of Leland's response: "In my opinion, this is a Philodendron bipinnatifidum. It is young and it appears as if the plant is in a mix that drains poorly. The adventitious roots of the older( headless?) stem are cut off and the terminal end of the stem appears to be collapsing. I would cut the old stem back, if it is dead, to reduce the risk of fungal infection. He can treat it with cinnamon, which is what I use. Replace the mix with one that drains better or reduce the watering. I would also keep this in the brightest light he can find...without putting it into an area that would burn the plant. The pup, is looking rather etiolated, but healthy. I would not disturb the healthy roots. If the grower is not sure, perhaps he can delay transplanting and removing the rotted roots. If he bends or damages the healthy roots, this would not be good. I am only assuming this plant is grown indoors...due to the photo location, but, I could be wrong." Etiolated indicates a lack of chlorophyll in the plant which is caused by too little light. These species do not appreciate being grown in dim conditions., We would all suggest you consider repotting the plant in a good soil mix that drains quickly. I'm giving you a link to another thread that discusses this mix as well as the reasons why a fast draining soil should be used. You'll find most of what you need to know in the last 6 or so entries. You should put the plant in the brightest possible place in your home and keep it evenly damp. During the warm season of the year it will do much better outdoors in fairly bright light. http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=58722 The plant is not likely to produce an inflorescence until it is much larger. I've seen then go 10 years in ideal conditions before producing an inflorescence. Generally it needs to have a much larger stem (trunk) as well as much better developed leaves. I'd also suggest a monthly dose of magnesium in the form of Epsom's salt. Just follow the manufacturer's recommendation. You can buy it at any garden supply. Regular doses of dilute fertilizer will also help. In response to your mention of a "pseudostem", I believe you are referring to the actual stem of the plant. The central axis of the plant is the stem, often called a "trunk" by collectors. Most people call the stalk that supports a leaf a "stem" but that is an incorrect use of the word stem. This link will give you more information: "http://www.exoticrainforest.com/What%20is%20a%20stem.%20%20What%20is%20a%20petiole.html These links will also explain more of what you can do to make the plant prosper: http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Philodendron bipinnatifidum pc.html http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Grow or Growing Philodendrons.html I hope you are able to make it grow big and strong!
The only word that currently comes to mind is....: wow. I am getting a true education in this plant's life. More on this plant. It's older than 7 years. It is at least 12 years old. I've only had it for 7. It belonged to my mother-in-law's brother. I don't know the condition it was originally kept in, only that it has always been an indoor plant. I have been wanting to repot this plant for some time, especially seeing as how exposed roots always make me a little antsy. I know it would benefit from better soil mixture. It has been raveged by time and too many animals(cats, dogs, ferrets, etc). I broke the end off of the trunk(?). the interior has seperated from the outer shell. Is there a proper way to cut this back. I am worried about preventing fungus. I will post some better pictures soon. The petioles have a concave channel running the length of them, the under sides are rounded. The new growth currently has 6 leaves on it. Again... I appreciate all the hard work and effort in assisting me. I will continue to post (especially when I can't get another Norfolk Island Pine to grow again). Damn my black thumbs!!!!! Until next time, Sean O'Hara
Just cut the stem (trunk) at a point where it still appears to be solid and sprinkle the cut area with Cinnamon which is a very good fungicidal. Don't be concerned about exposed roots, they are very normal. Plants such as this will grow with roots attached to concrete, stone, wood or just about any other solid surface. In the forest more roots will be exposed to air than in soil and often hang 100 feet from the canopy down to the surface. A better soil mix and much more light along with consistently moist soil should make it grow.
OK!!! I cut the old trunk back. The first picture is showing the treated trunk remaining. Hopefully I did it right. The second picture is of the base of the portion of the trunk that was removed.
Should be fine. Just watch for any sign of fungal infection and if you see anything abnormal treat the area again with Cinnamon. It should not take long for the cut region to dry. This plant will likely do better if staked to keep the stem (trunk) growing upright. In time it will support itself but a good totem would be helpful. You can find high quality 42 inch totems here: http://www.mosserlee.com/Page/Store.aspx?nt=324 Look at the 5th product in the row and then to the right scroll down to the 42 inch size. They will ship any quantity.
I also know you wanted a close-up or 2 of the leaf. The first is a close-up of the basal portion of the leaf. The second picture is of one of the larger leaves. I've placed a quarter on the base to give reference to size. The last picture is of the base of the new trunk growth. It seems as though roots grow out of the trunk. So I've noticed as the reference you gave to it having many of the roots above ground. Again... thanks for all the help. Sean
What you are seeing is an the beginning of the stem growth. A stem has nodes which are divided by internodes. The roots, petioles and eventually the peduncles which will support an inflorescence grow from the nodes. If supported this plant will eventually grow what appears to be a "tree trunk" which is common to all members of Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma. Even though this specimen is now 12 years old it is still far from being mature. If given bright light and better soil as well as regular doses of a dilute fertilizer plus some magnesium (Epsom's salt) it should begin to grow fairly rapidly and in time will produce an inflorescence. I would suggest you go to the International Aroid Society website www.Aroid.org and look up Philodendron bipinnatifidum using the search engine to the lower left of the home page. You should find quite a few posts on Aroid l as well as articles on the species. I believe a scientific treatment is there as well but be prepared to have a botanical dictionary with you. Botanists have to use scientific terminology or the treatments would end up being 20 pages long (or longer) for every plant. The terms are actually easy to learn but it does take time. I'm adding two photos which I have been given permission to use. Both were taken of this species in Brazil where the plant has grown at least 100 feet (well over 30 meters) up into the forest canopy. As can be easily seen the roots hang from high in the canopy and some make it all the way to the soil. In nature this plant will gather most of its water from falling rain which is absorbed by the free hanging roots.
