Identification: Trying to identify and fix a plant before it dies.

Discussion in 'Indoor and Greenhouse Plants' started by funkyblue, Oct 20, 2009.

  1. funkyblue

    funkyblue Member

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    Hello,

    I am trying to identify the two plants.

    The first one I received some years ago and started with lots and lots of leaves. It has slowly died off with one single green leaf left, two slowly dying and a new leaf growing. I recently replanted it with fresh soil and some all-purpose compound fertilizer. I am trying to identify it and fix it before it completely dies.

    The second one is called a "White Butterfly" but I cannot seem to find care instructions for it. When I first got it, it had massive leaves and grew like a weed. It almost died but has grown more recently.

    I have them sitting in a window sill and they get moderate afternoon sun.

    Thanks in advance,
    Scott
     

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  2. photopro

    photopro Well-Known Member

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    Scott, the first one at least appears to be a juvenile Monstera deliciosa. The second is a type of Syngonium, probably Syngonium podophyllum . Both are juvenile aroids. These plants prefer bright light (indirect) and very fast draining soil that remains damp but not wet.

    http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Monstera deliciosa large pc.html

    http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Syngonium Species pc.html

    The Monstera is from Central America and Mexico and in the wild produces very large leaves with holes in the leaf lamina known as fenestrations which in Latin means "windows". Syngonium species are common to Central and South America and in South Florida is an invasive species. The stuff can climb every tree and becomes so thick it is a mess. In our tropical atrium we yank the stuff out by the handful and often just throw it away. Both are rain forest species that need high humidity. I would guess both are begging for brighter light.

    It is extremely difficult to identify aroids in the juvenile stages since almost all produce a cordate or "heart shaped" leaf. The chances are high you won't know for sure what the first plant is until it grows substantially larger. Aroids are extremely variable in shape and morph as they grow in much the same way a baby "morphs" into a small child, then into a teenager, a young adult and finally an adult. Many sellers call the Monstera "Philodendron pertusum" but that isn't a valid name and the plant isn't a Philodendron species. On many aroid plants you can find five or six different shaped leaves that look nothing alike on the same plant. The shape and color of a leaf have little to do with determining the plant's species, especially when in the juvenile stages. That is precisely why you find so many "made-up" and/or bad names on sites such as eBay. People don't know what it is so they just make up a name.

    I have lots of both of these growing in my atrium and have seen both in the juvenile form enough times I would think the ID is likely accurate but there is no way I can give a guarantee. This article explains about natural variation in plant species: http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Natural variation within aroid and plant species.html

    Store bought potting soil is not good for most aroids although both of these will survive in the stuff. A few aroids will live wet but most don't like soggy soil that is thick and gummy. Be cautious with fertilizer. Too much is worse than none at all due to the build-up of salts. If you can find it the best form for these plants is sold in the U.S. as Osmocote 30-30-30. This is a pellet fertilizer and just a few grains per pot will be adequate. Only use the product once every three to four months so don't buy the big bottle. This mix is sometimes difficult to find so just buy the closest to those numbers possible.

    Virtually any store bought soil will become thick and literally starve the roots of needed air since their roots need to be able to move freely through the soil. In most cases they have few roots even in soil since these will be hanging off the side of a tree. Most of the time they grow as hemiepiphytes (hemi-EPI-fits) or epiphytes (epi-FITS) and have no roots in the soil at all. They simply gather their moisture from the humidity and rain.

    To make the plants prosper you need to make the soil porous. Mix roughly 20% peat moss, 20% orchid bark containing charcoal and another 10% or so Perlite into the store soil. I would also suggest a handful of sand and a big handful of sphagnum moss that is cut as finely as possible. Mix all of this well, repot the plants and keep them as near a bright window as possible. They need to be warm with the soil evenly damp and they should return to health. The formula is not critical, just think "rain forest". The soil in a rain forest is composed largely of dead vegetation including leaves, animal droppings, and rotting wood. You are trying to duplicate the rain forest.

    By the way, these were likely grown as tissue cultured plants and not from seed. Tissue culture often causes the young plant to grow slowly and develop into the adult form even slower. If the TC company does a really good job most will grow close to the rate of a wild plant but it often takes years for them to out grow the chemicals. There is nothing wrong with a TC plant but growers need to be aware of the side effects of the "cloning" process.


    Good growing.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2009
  3. funkyblue

    funkyblue Member

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    Thanks so much for your detailed response.
    I will defiantly buy the needed products and pots and replant as you have instructed. Fingers crossed I can save the Monstera deliciosa.

    I live in a climate that is mostly dry ranging from around 15c in Winter in a day to around 35-40c in summer. Low humidity, and usually dry heat. I am one a second floor unit and the plants only get some direct sunlight in the afternoon through a window.

    Is there any type of shade structure I could build or do, so that maybe I could put them outside in the direct sun (for about half a day) so they get more sun without burning?

    I will try the soil change first through.

    Thanks again
     
  4. photopro

    photopro Well-Known Member

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    You need to increase the humidity. Put a shallow tray filled with pebbles beneath each pot and keep the tray filled with water. The humidity will surround the plant and simulate the conditions they prefer.

    For light just use a white woman's silk scarf to diffuse the sun. They both love bright light. 15 C is near the low end of their tolerance but they will be fine. Your high temperatures are perfect.
     
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2009
  5. verdekaleb

    verdekaleb Member

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    All very good advice from photopro for optimal growth. Don't be intimidated by either species. I have both, and they are pretty forgiving with most errors, as stated, especially syngonium, I'm yet to find a way to keep it from flourishing. My monstera is easily my favorite.
     

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