sharpening bonsai concave pruner?

Discussion in 'Maples' started by paxi, Dec 27, 2009.

  1. paxi

    paxi Active Member

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    I am probably over-thinking this but I noticed that my main tool, a bonsai concave pruner, doesn't seem to be making sharp cuts. Does everyone seem to use some sort of sharpening stone? Do I need oil? any specific recommendations or does it really matter?

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. togata57

    togata57 Contributor 10 Years

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    No specific recommendations, but yes I do think that it does matter---to your plants---if your pruners are good and sharp. Definitely much better to have a clean snip than to have the horrid consequences of dull blades...I remember an old pair of my garden clippers that were so dull the stems of plants would get bent, or mashed, but not cut.

    Perhaps you could ask your friendly local nursery folks what they recommend sharpening-wise. Might be a local business there in St. L. that does knife and tool sharpening. (Hardware stores?) Check on the manufacturers web site and see if it gives any advice.

    With my clippers, I try to be diligent about cleaning/disinfecting them after EVERY use, and putting a thin film of petroleum jelly on the blades, especially if I know I won't be using them for a while.

    No, you are not overthinking: if you have noticed a change in your pruners' performance, then I'd say that yep, they are getting dull.
     
  3. maf

    maf Well-Known Member Maple Society

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    Felco do a couple of sharpeners for their secateurs, 902 and 903, would probably work well for other types of pruners. (Not sure exactly what the concave pruner in question is like)
     
  4. AlainK

    AlainK Generous Contributor Forums Moderator Maple Society 10 Years

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    If it's a bonsai tool, these are often referred to as "knob cutters" in English I think. You will find plenty of pictures using a search engine.

    From http://www.bonsai-bci.com/tools/article.html :

    "The characteristic shape of the concave pruner wound makes use of the fact that wounds on the trunk of trees heal in from the sides rather than from the top and bottom. The concave depression into the trunk allows the wound to callous over without creating an undesirable bump on the trunk."

    There are cylindrical sharpening stones that can be used, but I've never used one myself: as togata57 put it, if you take care of them, a good quality knob cutter should last a long time.

    ...Or you can try a rotary tool (like Dremel) with a grinding stone like the one pictured there:

    http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/AttachmentsDetail.aspx?pid=911
     
  5. paxi

    paxi Active Member

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    yes alain, that is the tool that I am referring to. I am starting to thing I may have bought a poorer quality version. I disinfect between trees, but have not used it that frequently that I would expect it to make irregular cuts so quickly. Ill try a sharpening stone or a local hardware shop. Thanks all for the input.
     
  6. M. D. Vaden

    M. D. Vaden Active Member 10 Years

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    Been a while since I owned one of those. Is the edge to sharpen on the inside or the outside?

    Some of the small hardware stores sell tiny files in both round or flat. And possibly a fine little grinding wheel, like Dremel size, but maybe use it in a drill.

    Some of the better sharpen services could probably do it. Some have even done surgical instruments.
     
  7. spookiejenkins

    spookiejenkins Active Member

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    AUSTIN, TEXAS Y'ALL! I'm home!
  8. paxi

    paxi Active Member

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    thanks again guys and gals. MD - it is the inside that is the cutting surface
     

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