I live in Northern VA area which just experienced one of its worst snowstorms. My home's gutter two stories above my Crimson Queen became chocked with ice, which today let loose and split the trunk in half. The split is about 4 inches down on a 16 inch trunk. Is there any salvation for this tree? Thanks!
Well, much will likely depend on if you have a top grafted tree or a low grafted one. If the split is above the graft , it may send out new 'Crimson Queen' growth within a year or two. A photo may help a lot , some directions here www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=60953 If the split is below the graft maybe it could be fastened so that it will graft itself together , although it may be vulnerable to splitting again till the graft becomes strong. Some branch pruning would likely help in this regard. Not an arborist here so just a suggestion. Had an 'Inabe Shidare' split some years ago, in what sounds like a similar fashion, that seems to have recovered fine since about 7 years ago, although I wonder about the strength of the union. The size of the trunk, caliper or diameter, and trees age would also be interesting. Other members may be more experienced with this.
Thanks chichi, A shame, hopefully the graft is lower than the split and some vigorous new growth develops over a couple of years which can be trained upwards if you want to keep it. If so, would wait and see what leafs out in the spring before cutting off any branches.
Chi, I had a split like that on a good size Daphne. I tied it together with jute and it mended in one growing season. Good luck. In S.NJ my garden got pummeled with heavy snow that ravaged a bunch of my trees. I haven't made it down there yet to assess the damage but my sister sent a few pics. They've inspired nightmares!
As long as there is some bark left on either side, there will be a circulation of sap. Some of the upper branches may die, though. Poetry to burn gives good advice : if you can pull back together the two halves, wrap the trunk with raffia soaked beforehand for about an hour, then wrap another layer with self-sealing rubber tape (the kind of thing plumbers use, whatever you call it), it will help : if done rapidly, the two parts have a very good chance to weld together, even if it will remain a weak point to pay attention to. That's a technique used by bonsai amateurs, it works well with trees up to more than one metre tall, with thick branches. For a garden tree, I would even go as far as drilling one or more holes and insert a bolt and nut to secure the two parts. In time, the head of the bolt and the nut on the other side would be swallowed into the bark, but the bolt(s) maintaining the the resistance of the fork would still be there. Brass screws or bolts are probably better than steel.
Alain, Just wondering if the copper in the brass screws or bolts would have a negative effect on the tree ? My understanding is that copper nails can be used to kill a tree. Maybe stainless steel would be an alternative.
I have never heard of that way to kill a tree before. I thought that maples didn't fear copper-based treatments to prevent fungal diseases and that on the contrary it would help keep the tree healthy: when I was a child, my father would put a bit of copper wire at the base of his tomato plants, but of course maples are not tomatoes. I heard that copper might be dangerous for apple-trees mainly, but to take the example of the bonsai world again, many people use copper wire to shape their trees, and the trees don't die, even if the wire is left too long in place and bites into the bark. But to be on the safe side, maybe using stainless steel is better.
Hi Alain and Chimera, Thanks to both of you for your advice. I spoke to the plant clinic at my local garden center today and they recommended stainless bolts. The Crimson Queen is all back together and I'm hoping for only the best of outcomes. Only time will tell and hopefully mother nature will be kind. Chichi
