I've read some stuff on this subject but need it in plain english. I live in an old farm house with somewhat of a moist basement and heat mainly with wood, so the upstairs is very dry. So how should i store my seeds? Should i put the seed packets in a sealed container in a dark place in the basement(50-55 F) or upstairs in warm dark place? I have also heard of people putting seeds in the fridge. I just got my seeds so i want to keep them for this years garden and any left-over ones save for next year. Maybee someone can point me in the right direction. Ryan
A lot depends on the seed. Most seeds are best stored cold and dry, at around 1° to 2°C in the fridge; many will keep even better in a freezer at -20°C. But some seeds (e.g. acorns) will not tolerate drying, or freezing either, and need to be kept chilled and moist, best stored in damp sterilised sand at 2° to 4°C.
Most of my seeds are all the regular vegetable seeds(tomato, peppers,cukes) so i would be understanding that i could refrigerate until planting time and all the extra can be frozen until next year. If i do put them in the fridge-should they be sealed and in the freezer can they be sealed in a foodsaver type bag.
As they are warm-climate species, I'd not want to guarantee they will take freezing (I was - wrongly - assuming you'd be dealing more in terms of Ontario native plants!). They may do, but I'm not 100% certain (maybe someone else will know). But they should keep a year in the fridge sealed dry in a foodsaver type bag.
I have found seeds to store better in a food storage container rather than a bag---too much moisture collecting in the bag. I suppose you could put a packet of silica gel in the bag to counteract this. I do save veggie seed from year to year in a container with good results. Some loss of viability seems to occur but not a lot. As to freezing seed, what about the so-called doomsday vaults, the international seed storage facilities? A goodly amount of the seeds saved in them is food related. These seeds, many of them from tropical places, are frozen (generally at -18C/0F) for many, many years. I suppose some things are yet to be properly tested for viability, but I do believe this has been going on for many years. Also, I have routinely frozen seed with no bad results. I have many seedaholic friends that do the same. Generally, I do this only for perennials. I was very dubious at first, but the person instructing me to do this trained at Kew, so I trusted him enough to try it. I am glad I did.
Yes, that's right. I just don't personally know whether tomato, peppers, and cukes are among those for which this can be done. Hence my caution!
I understand your caution. I, too, have never personally tried to freeze veggie seeds. Maybe I will try freezing them (tomatoes, peppers and cukes) this year. My curiousity is piqued. I have to admit that I always wonder about just such things whenever I hear or see the seed banks mentioned.
I've routinely kept both (flower and vegetable) seeds in the freezer for years and years and have never been disappointed with germination. Works especially well for what I grow: tomatoes, cukes and muskmelon, and what seems like tons of Hyacinth Beans! When you buy shoes, you'll find a little pack of silica (says "do not eat") in the box. I don't use plastic bags, but use a large jar (Bick's pickles come to mind), place seeds loose inside, add a silica pack, place some wax paper over top (learned that from my Mom to provide a tighter seal under the screw-cap). Or throw in some rice; the grains will soak up any remaining moisture. Before freezing, I place seeds on a paper towel for a few days to ensure they're dry. I've got more seed-jars in my freezer than food, ha ha. Can't freeze acorns? They freeze hard where they fall, under my Q.rubra, and in early summer I have to pull them out because I only want the parent tree.
Something I've wondered about too. I've always thought that it ought to be possible with the hardier oak species (also e.g. Q. macrocarpa in zone 3 southern Manitoba), but the books say you can't. Maybe the books were only written with experience of less hardy oak species. Nice to know that the books are sometimes demonstrably wrong!
To be fair re acorns germinating under my 30 yr Q.rubra, I need to add that germination occurred only in the 10 or so years since a large amount of sand had been spread, levelled and raked to "fix" an adjacent area, near one side of the oak's drip line. Previously, acorns had never sprouted in our native soil (which I've read is called Kalamalka Black). My guess is that the native soil was poor at retaining moisture in this semi-arid location. Or acorns from the young tree weren't yet viable. Or both. But winters are always cold, whether -10C or -20C, and acorns freeze hard into the sand. Doubt we'll see any more sprouting, though, as two Squirrels found the property last year.
I store all of my garden veggie seeds in the fridge in an old cigar humidor with a dessicant (silica) pack- they last for years. This applies to both purchased and saved seed. Make sure your collected seed is thoroughly dry before storing.
Re acorns being frozen. A friend has found that the best way to get them to germinate is to just leave them where they fall. In the spring/early summer check around the base of the tree and collect the germinated seeds. Given that the acorns generally sit on the surface of the ground, I would have to say that they certainly don't suffer from freezing.
Hello, I put my seeds in paper envelopes or jars and keep them in the basement which is pretty cool winter and summer. That way I can label them easily also. I have had some for five to ten years like that and a few weeks ago I planted some flower seeds and they are coming up already ?? I'm pretty simple when it comes to most things but it seems to work. I suppose it does depend on the type of seeds.
Wow, seedlings up already. A bit off topic, but I've found a DIRT CHEAP of starting seeds. I use styrofoam coffee cups (the large ones), punch a hole in the bottom with a pencil, and Bob's your uncle. Takes more potting soil, yes, but seedlings really develop a large root system before setting out. If you allow the soil in the styro cups to dry for a day or two before setting out, invert them and the whole thing slips out easily. Less transplant shock than peat pots, for instance. The only disadvantage: they tip over easily.
I did just that last year. I bought a package of styrofoam cups and planted over 200 seeds that I had saved from several years before and had stored in envelopes. They took up a bit of room but I stayed patient and it was worth it. Good idea about letting them dry out a day or two and turning upside down.
Forgot to mention that you can cut about a 1/4 of the cup off the top to make it a bit smaller. Use an exacto knife. Cheers
Padraigan, saved a lot of money didn't it. I find the styro cups are especially good for plants that don't like to be transplanted, i.e. beans. I start all my Hyacinth Beans (Dolichos lablab) that way, and after inverting, I gently place the seedlings into the prepared holes. The beans don't even know they've been transplanted! Sure puts a big dent in the potting soil supply, though. I'll cut a bit off the tops this year, as you suggested.