Planting a Lg Bloodgood...confused about root treatment

Discussion in 'Maples' started by DennisC, Nov 2, 2013.

  1. DennisC

    DennisC New Member

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    No. Arizona USA
    I'm preparing to plant a large (for a new planting) Bloodgood next week. I've read a lot of conflicting information about the best planting method. The tree is in a 15 gal (60 l.) container from the grower, has a 50-60 mm trunk, and is about 3 m high by 2 m wide. Many recommendations say to remove the all container soil from the roots, open the roots, and backfill with all native soil (no amendment) but I am quite intimidated to try this method on a tree of this size in our soil. (Not to mention its $150 value.)

    We are at 1500 m. elevation with soil of very fine texture with little organic material though it is relatively light and soft. Native trees are cedars, pines, and variety of native conifers and small oaks species thrive in it. A "Crimson Queen" maple planted last year is doing well nearby. We're in USDA Zone 8a and the new tree is still actively growing; it's still a few weeks until 1st frost here. Questions:
    1. Is the "remove all soil" method appropriate for a tree of this size?
    2. Should I plant now or wait until the leaves drop?
    3. Should I backfill with no organic amendment even in our low-organic soil?
    4. Should I use water-holding polymer beads ("Soil Moist) as insurance against dry soil?
    5. Should I use a protective spray like "Cloud Cover" to reduce transpiration in our hottest weather next summer until the tree is established.
  2. Ron B

    Ron B Paragon of Plants 10 Years

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    WA USA (Z8)
    Nobody here is going to have an overriding opinion that trumps what you have read elsewhere. What you needed to have been doing was reading the arguments behind the claims you were seeing, assessing the merits of those for yourself. That said, if it were me I would plant immediately and maybe expose the outer part of the root system, unless it is all potting soil in which case I might shake it all off first - and not put any of it in the hole, which would be filled with the same soil that came out of it. No voo doo like polymers or foliage sprays would be involved. There would be staking of the top (for one year) unless it seemed like it could hold itself up through winter winds and there would be mulching of the soil around the tree after planting.
  3. alex66

    alex66 Rising Contributor Maple Society 10 Years

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    ROME Italy zone9/b

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