http://www.durgan.org/ShortURL/?WMLAH Physalis peruviana L (Giant Cape Gooseberry). Comparing fruit size of Physalis peruviana to the Physalis pruinosa. Physalis peruviana is taller plant, slower growing, and not as prolific as Physalis pruinosa. Both are similar in taste, and texture. http://www.durgan.org/ShortURL/?DXSRN Summary:Growing experience Physalis peruviana L (Giant Cape Gooseberry).
Durgan, I read that these are vulnerable to aphids, and must have very pourous soil. Based on your methods of maintaining and replenishing the soil yearly, you seem to have the perfect fit. A question to your watering, I have yet to see how you water, and your frequency. I know you use the drums from the down spouts, and hose. With this in mind, can you elaborate on the methods from which you best water the beds....?
This year, I never watered. It almost rained everyday. I was thinking I was living in Vancouver. Last year was very dry, so I devised this method. I do like the barrel water for miscellaneous watering. http://www.durgan.org/ShortURL/?LCFEO !0 July 2007 Effective watering of plant roots. Watering using the city supply can be a hassle. Normal spraying methods usually only wets the surface plus the evaporation wastes water. The device depicted is a normal hand held spray nozzle available in all hardware stores. The spray device is removed and the pipe is reversed and attached to the hose. This makes holding the device relatively comfortable. The pipe is the inserted along a row of plants at probably one foot intervals and the water actually gets to the roots without waste of water. Using this method the time taken is less than spraying and more effective, since the water actually gets to the root area, and the foliage doesn't get wet. The hydraulic effect of the stream makes inserting the pipe into the ground effortless.
Durgan, are you saying one foot intervalls as though the rows of the garden are North/ South and you place the modified watering wand every foot East/ West? I don't think you mean every square foot of the garden bed? Also, about frequency on a not so lucky year of rain like this year for you. Would it be every 3 days due to the great soil you have built up that retains the water well? Mine needs to be works into that state so it requires more frequent.
I simply walk along the row and inject the wand a reasonable distance from the plant for a short burst of water. This is very quick and the water gets to the root area. The next watering or if I figure the plant needs a good watering I may go up both sides of the row. Using this method, I know some water is getting to the roots, and there is no wetting of the vegetation, which creates conditions for mildew if wet. This system is most efficient of water, and last year it worked wonders. I also find this is great for trees in time of great water stress. Simply go around the tree in a circle. It probably aerates the roots also. This system sure beats those inefficient sprinklers, which are so common. Unless left on for hours only the top surface gets watered with sprinklers, particularly if the ground is very dry when starting. Plus there is much evaporation, and wet foliage with sprinkles. When the plants are very small a watering can is probably best, since in this case one doesn't need much depth, until the plants get established. Frequency is determined by trial and error, I generally have a feel how the plants are growing, and water accordingly. Simple, neat, and practical.
