I might have a flowering Philodendron (it is unclear for now). I did some research but I haven't found information about possible self-pollination of P. Bipinnatifidum. Is it possible, and if so, how should I do ? Also, the 4 or 5 last leaves were substantially less deeply cut than usual. What could cause that ? Thanks ! FS
It is not likely you have "self" pollination but it is certainly possible the plant has been pollinated by some insect without your being aware. If the plant has been pollinated you will soon know. Philodendrons along with all aroids produce an inflorescence. That inflorescence is composed of a spathe and a spadix. If you can photograph the spathe that can be of importance. The spathe will look like a somewhat elongated conical flower and the spadix will appear as an exaggeratedly elongated "pine cone". If the spadix has been pollinated it will begin to develop seed berries. Those berries can take some time to fully grow. If the berries develop the plant has almost certainly been pollinated. If not, the spathe and spadix will die and drop from the plant. If the berries develop, once they have reached maturity, they can be crushed and lightly covered with soil. With most aroids, new plants will begin to grow in a couple of months. It can take several years for the plants to fully mature. As for the less pinnatified leaves, I really have no idea. A photo would be helpful. This plant, like most aroids, can be variable so you may simply be observing natural variables in the plant. For some odd reason, people expect every single blade of every single aroid to look exactly alike. That is rarely the case. The same identical species can look totally different depending on where it grows, growing conditions, and numerous other factors. Philodendron hederaceum has over 20 synonyms (same plant, other name) due to its highly variable state. Many botanists have given new scientific names to new "species" for that plant that later prove to be only a new name for the same species variation. Although I haven't been tracking any philodendrons lately, if you are interested in aroid reproduction biology I am in the midst of several months of daily photographs on the reproduction of Anthurium regale. If you read my notes and observe the photos on the net you can see daily how an aroid spathe and spadix develops. Dr. Tom Croat of the Missouri Botanical Garden and others have included their notes almost daily as to what is happening as you see the photographs. We are now 62 days into the process and you can clearly see the stamens and pollen in the most recent photographs. Here's a link just in case: http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Anthurium regale spathe page 5 pc.html You might want to look up your plant on TROPICOS to learn more. That website was down this morning so I couldn't check for more information for you.
One point of which I am unsure you are aware. The production of a spathe and spadix is quite normal even if the plant is not pollinated. A spathe alone is not a signal of reproduction, only the readiness to reproduce.
I am interested in the correct answer to that question, as my philo is flowering at this moment. I would like to know how I, myself, can pollinate a flower on this plant, from itself. I have read elsewhere to cut off part of the spathe on one plant and it will produce pollen that is put on the tip of the spadix of another plant. Is this even close to being right and can it be done with a single plant? Thank you. photos
Depends on the species. Some species produce pollen about the same time they produce the female and male flowers. Some produce them well apart in order to prevent self pollination. If the pollen is produced at about the same time the female flowers are produced you may be able to collect pollen and transfer it to the female flowers thus producing pollination. Others simply cannot be tricked. I've got an unnamed species known as philodendron 69686. That one requires a beetle to do the job. So far we have been unable to tease the plant into allowing us to collect pollen. Although anthurium species differ from philodendron species you might want to read this to get an idea of how it works. And you certainly want to know how the species you have gets the job done. http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Anthurium regale spathe pc.html A little warning. There is quite a bit of data on this link. But if you want to do the pollination this will help you understand the process. Next question..... what species are you trying to pollinate? P. bipinnatififiducm?
I'm fairly certain it is philodendron bipinnatifidum. Here are some better pictures. Thanks for the informative link. I guess all I need to know now is how long until they produce pollen, and can I freeze it until next year if there are no blooms ready? I pointed out one spathe in the photos that closed up two days before these opened, and several more that are unopened. Maybe I can cut it open to pollinate new blooms?
The site you gave wouldn't allow the photos to be seen without a log-in address. However, here is the best you can try and it will take a bit of time and a good magnifying glass. Once the inflorescence opens you will see the spadix standing free of the spathe. The spadix is the slender "pine cone" in the center. Start watching it closely with the magnifying glass. The female flowers should form first and will begin from the bottom spreading to the top. They are small and will be hard to detect but a good signal is the spadix will begin to produce a liquid. You should be able to see small droplets. In some species that liquid is fragrant and is known as pheromone. The plant uses that to attract insects to do for it what I'm about to describe. That is the sign the female flowers are now receptive. Those female flowers will begin to climb towards the top of the spadix. Next will be the male portions of the inflorescence. This may take some weeks. The male flowers produce the pollen. If you are lucky you may begin to get pollen before the female flowers complete their receptive cycle. This is where you will need a really good magnifying glass. Once the male anthers develop they will have microscopic pollen on their tips. These are not large and will likely be barely visible. But when pollen begins to shed you should be able to see a powder at he base of the spadix. Sometimes it will fall onto the spathe. Buy a fresh, clean camel hair brush about 1/4 inch wide. Collect what pollen you can and then transfer it to the upper portion of the spadix. Just brush it gently up and down the length of the spadix. If the female flowers are still receptive you should see seed berries begin to develop in the month or so that follows. I've never personally attempted to do it with this species since these are so easily purchased but it would be fun to try. As a result, I can't tell you how long it will take the seed berries to develop. Don't try to harvest the seed berries until they are fully ripe. They will just begin to fall from the spadix when they are ready. When you are able to collect the berries you can crush the berry and place it on top of some good soil. Make sure the soil is very well draining. Do not use potting soil right out of the bag. Mix extra peat into the potting soil. Just keep it damp. If you have fertile seeds you'll see baby plants in about 4 to 6 weeks. Now here's the long wait. It will take up to two years for the plants to gain any size. Growing philodendron from seeds is a slow process. If I didn't cover something just ask. I'll try to help. By the way, if you've got some ants you can convince to move into the pot they likely will do the job for you! In my atrium ants often pollinate some of my plants. But since I don't know for certain what insect species is assigned to this plant species I can't be certain. And if you don't know, almost every plant in the tropics has a specific insect "assigned" to do the work for it! With many species if you don't have the right insect you simply don't get pollination. Good luck!
Sorry for the bad link, I don't use Myspace for much of anything, that's my wife's bag. This link should work fine. One last question, is it a bad thing when they close back up? I didn't see any development like you described on the first bloom.
You definitely have a P. bipinnatifidum. A lot of people call this Philodendron selloum but that name is a misnomer. You certainly have an open spathe and spadix. The development is a slow process and can take up to two months in some species. Just start watching that center portion which is the spadix. Development will begin at the bottom and work up. I've never heard of a spathe closing after it is fully open so that is a new one on me. It is not uncommon for the spathe to drop off and die before the seed berries are developed. but I've never seen or heard of a spathe just closing. If it is going to reproduce you will begin to see the tiny little female flowers develop at the bottom of the spadix and then slowly climb to the top in a period of a week or more. Once the female flowers develop the male organs will follow. But the process has begun, or is about to begin, on your plant. It just doesn't happen as fast as many people think it should. Watch for the tiny moisture droplets that will appear once the female flowers are fertile and receptive. Keep the magnifying glass handy.
In case anyone is still interested, this Florida State Horticultural Society pamphlet describes the process: https://fshs.org/proceedings-o/2006-vol-119/FSHS 119/p.425-428.pdf I just harvested my first fruit yesterday about two months after pollinating. Essentially, when inflorescence opens, cut off spathe (outer covering) leaving spadix (inside cone) which should be warm, indicating receptivity to pollination. Apply pollen (previously collected from another spadix) to sticky lower third (pale yellowish area below whitish upper portion). About two days later the upper third will look shaggy as it sheds pollen. Collect this pollen and use for pollinating the next inflorescences.
