more meyer lemon trouble

I have had my Meyer lemon tree for approximately one month. When I got it I re-potted into a pot maybe 2 or so inches larger than what it came in. It was potted in what I can only describe as straight sand with some time-release fertilizer. I added a miracle grow cactus palm and citrus soil and watered it.

I live in Wisconsin so it is dark by 7 pm and already getting cold. We have had a few nights of really cold weather and since I just moved here and don't know the climate that well I decided to start bringing it in now. I put it outside during the day to soak up as much sun and wind as possible and then brought it in for the evening. It was doing great for a few weeks then leaves started to drop. Originally I thought I wasn't watering it enough, having read so much about the perils of over watering I thought I had overcompensated. So I watered it and checked back daily shoving my finger into the soil to check for moisture level. It never felt "dry" but I don't trust myself with this soil I'm not accustomed to working with it. My attempts to correct the problem by watering more conscientiously did not work. All in all I watered once upon the repot and then probably 3 more times in relatively small amounts of water.

Next I read something about Meyer's being sensitive to environment change and so I thought let's find this guy a permanent home. Now it lives indoors in a southern facing window. Temperature conditions in my home have been pretty wonderful for a citrus plant hot and sticky slightly cooler over night, not so comfortable for the human inhabitants. I'm fairly certain I need to get a light for him because of the short days here. Plus with all the rain it has been pretty overcast. Can anyone advise on the type of light (wattage/size), distance of light source from plant (so as not to burn), and number of hours per day?

Anyway the watering and the location adjustments haven't helped if anything it seems worse. I have lost nearly 1/3 of the leaves and it appears that fruit dropping will be coming all to soon. The death of the leaf seems to follow with the over watered diagnosis: gradual yellowing of the leaf from the tip in. By the time the leaf drops it is completely desiccated. When I purchased the tree it had two bunches of flowers, which have since died, and the fruit has started to form. I have been considering removing the new buds and other new growth to conserve energy, does that sound crazy?

I have attached photos chronicling the death of a leaf. I would greatly appreciate any advice out there.


thanks

 

You are probably exposing the tree to direct sun while the roots are cold (below mid 60's). The roots are completly inactive at 55 F, but barely active is not enought to supply enough moisture for the leaves when they are exposed to direct sun (especially indoors). This problem is called winter leaf drop and is a common problem. You have several choice:
1) take it out of the sun and put it near a north window or even a basement for the winter.
2) heat the roots to at least 65 F and leave it where it is.
3) you can add light, but that is only necessary if you want to maintain growth during the winter, if you do you must also heat the roots---if the roots can't function the tree cannot grow.

Skeet

 

many thanks. After spending several hours yesterday reading your's and millet's responses to the several hundred people who are attempting to grow these amazing trees, I came to the conclusion that is was a watering or temperature problem.

I am going to get a thermometer and see what's what with that. I would like to maintain growth through the winter. I bought this tree on sale just one month ago and it has the most beautiful lemons all over it. I would love to at least see a few of those ripen. To that end i have just a couple more questions if you have the time.

1. Do you think the cold soil issue has damaged the existing fruit?
2. Do you think I should remove the two newest outcroppings of fruit?
3. does the soil need to stay at 65 degrees all day and night or is this temp only during daytime hours. If it is the latter what is the nighttime low?
4. I have read that the tree will hold on to ripened fruit for "some time" whatever that means, I am wondering if fruit will finish ripening off the tree?
5. Where I live will cause this plant to suffer the trauma of moving in and out of the house twice a year. I always have trouble with this. It always seems that when I bring them back in they have been hit by some sort of pestilence that usually spreads around my houseplants. What do you think the chances for this trees success are if I keep it indoors all year (we don't have central air)?

thank you again this is an amazing courtesy you are providing to so many. I am truly grateful for the knowledge base as well as the opportunity to ask direct and specific questions. You have likely saved my marriage (haha) after spending $60 on the tree I can see my husbands heart melt with every leaf he picks up off his desk.

 

The cold root problem has probably not affected the fruit yet. It can cause the tree to drop the fruit if it can no longer support it, if the leaf drop is severe enough.

The new flowers are the result of stress, it is not necessary to remove them, the tree will drop any fruit it cannot support.

The soil temp does not need to stay above 65 except when the tree is exposed to direct sun, but it can take a few hours to warm the soil. When the roots are below 55 there is no activity at all, they cannot supply water to cool the leaves or take up nutrients to support growth.

Fruit holding on the tree refers to the fact that the fruit quality does not decline after it has ripened on the tree-- a good characteristic for homeowners so that the fruit can be used over a long period. Meyer lemons are best when they are just beginning to turn from green to yellow.

The tree can be grown indoors full time, but growth will likely be slower and the tree may get a little leggy. If you understand the root temperature requirements and do not expose it to sun while the roots are cold it will benefit from being outside in the summer, you can always give it a bath (soaking spray) with soapy water before you bring it in to kill any unwanted passengers.

 

okay here's the latest. I have had no luck finding a soil thermometer. I used my husband,s beer thermometer it reads 70-75 degrees F. It appears to be measuring the temp about 3.5 inches from the top of soil and about one inch in from the rim.

The leaf drop hasn't gotten any better in fact the fruit is now yellowing. I have watered it again since the start of this thread as the soil was quite dry. I'm happy to post new photos if you think that will help.

 

The beer thermometer will probably work if it has good readability in the range of 50 to 70 F. I use a chef's thermometer that reads in the range of 20 to 120 F. The critical time to check the temp is when it is getting exposed to direct sunlight-- usually early morning is the low temp.

The leaf drop that may have resulted from exposure to direct sun while the roots were cold probably continue for a couple weeks or so. The fruit looks large enough that it may be beginning to color anyway. I have not yet eaten a Meyer lemon, but others on the forum say that it taste best when it is just beginning to turn from yellow to green.
I have been enjoying my "green" Lisbon lemons for almost a month now, so if you want to sample a fruit or 2, now might be a good time.

The best way to check to see if the tree needs water is to dig a little hole with your finger, if you see or feel moisture in the top 2-3 inches, I can promise you there is more further down. Citrus like it drier than most plants. In the winter, it is not uncommon to go for a month without water. When you do water, it is best to water thoroughly so that at least 10 to 20% goes through the pot.

If you have been reading old post you may already know that you have two chioces for keeping the tree inside for winter. If you want to expose it to sun and/or additional light you need to keep the roots warm (at least 65). If you put it in a place where it gets only indirect light, it will do fine without additional light or heat as long as it stays above freezing, but it will not grow during that time.

 

Sounds like a bit of transplant shock (fall is not the growing season for citrus - disturbed/damaged roots can't rejuvinate enough to support existing leaves esp. with previous exposure to some frigid air as per above mentions) - bring inside sooner next year and pot up in spring. Your soil choice is good and your pot upgrade isn't too drastic in size. It will probably pull through fine. Don't make yourself uncomfortable by keeping air too warm - it won't help the tree. Don't bother moving it in and out. Leave in med. filtered light at most - no direct sun through window, and don't expect growth 'till spring - Let it rest. You might crack the window open by it for a few hours each day if not freezing out so it gets some air circulation benefit. Wipe leaves off every 4-6 weeks with a damp paper towel to remove dust. Don't feed until you see new leaves appear. Wait this out. Go ahead and sample a fruit if it 'gives' slightly to the touch. No matter the color, if it's still hard as a rock better to wait a bit as there won't be enough juice to squeeze out. Meyer lemons are more zesty eaten earlier in their ripening stage because they are lemon-orange crosses and the spritely flavor dulls as the sugars increase. By the way all citrus periodically drop yellowing leaves as do most evergreens and especially when they have been exposed to cool soil/air temps. Good luck and go test squeeze.

 

Whether you give your tree direct sun or not depends greatly on the temperature you maintain the root zone. If you maintain a root zone temperature of 64F to 70F (18-20C) you can give the tree all the sun you desire. If your tree still has a fruit crop attached to mature, the tree will require nutrients to mature the fruit. Therefore, if you maintain the root temperature, and sunlight, the tree will require fertilizing throughout the winter at approximately 1/2 strength. I fertilize all my container citrus trees (127 varieties) all year. Last year my Marisol Clementine produced five flushes of growth, with the last flush occurring in December. My trees are growing in Colorado, which is a much colder area the BC. Sun or filtered light, fertilizer or not, all depends on the manner of cultivation you give your tree. There is a big difference how a container tree and a in ground tree growing in Florida or California are cultivated. - Millet