I've had this wonderful jade tree for a few years. It is about four feet tall and is actually three large trunks all stemming from the same base which is just below the sandy soil. I noticed shriveled leaves a couple of months ago, particularly coming off of branches of one of the three trunks. I visited this forum and based on other jade advice figured I was overwatering and that the tree wasn't getting enough sun. I stopped watering so much and moved the tree to full sun. Next thing I knew, little branches began falling off of the same trunk. I again checked the forum for advice, and cut that rotting trunk down section by section with a sharp blade, hoping to get to healthy green. I cut all of the way down to the base that's just above the soil level, right where the sick trunk meets up with the other two trunks and was still getting brown. That was a week ago, and now the stump has molded over with scary-looking greenish-gray mold. I'm sure if I don't act fast, the rot will spread to the remaining two trunks, if it hasn't already, although those branches are sporting some new growth now that it's in full sun and I've laid off watering. Any advice is greatly appreciated!! I'd love to save this tree as it was pretty pricey and really was, at one time, quite beautiful. Thanks! Heather
I would remove the diseased tissue and change the soil. This will also give you an opportunity to remove any diseased roots. It will be a job with a plant that large, I hope you have some help given how fragile Jades are with regards to broken branches and leaves. It is not like you can just lay it down on it's side like you can with many other plants. With regards to anti-fungals, Jades tend to be very touchy. Some have suggested the use of a light coating of Lysol aerosol spray (not the cleaning solution) as it has some anti-fungal properties. Personally, I would do my best at removing the diseased tissue and changing the soil. Mark
Mark Thanks so much for your reply! Just wanted to clarify something though: when you say remove the diseased tissue, I'm not sure how to remove any more since I'm already down to the main trunk where the rotted trunk and the two remaining trunks stem off of. I've cut it down as far as I can go. Also, when you say change the soil, do I basically just shake off the existing soil clinging to the roots and repot? Any suggestions for type of soil? It seems the soil it's in (which it came in) looks quite sandy. Do you suggest a sand/potting soil mix? Thanks so much for your help! Heather
I am sorry, I guess I did not read your first post as well as I should have. OK, plan "B". I have never used the product, but there is a potassium-bicarbonate-based anti-fungal powder that is supposed to be much safer than traditional chemical fungicides. http://www.greencure.net/ Take a rag, lightly dampen it with some laundry bleach, and gently wipe off the visible fungus "fuzzies" (hyphae) from the plant. Gently wipe it again with a water dampened rag. Then gently pat dry. Dust with the anti-fungal powder, as directed. Changing soil with succulents is a bit more of a delicate procedure than with non-succulents. Yes, gently tease most of the loose soil away from the roots. I have found a pencil works well. It is not uncommon for a good percentage of the fine roots to actually break off. Clip off any large, thickened roots that have wrapped themselves around the root ball. Clip off any dead/diseased roots. With large succulents that you do not want to up-pot, you will want a very granular mix. Materials I use would be the fired, clay granuals (sold as bonsai soil, aquatic plant soil, Turface, etc.), vermiculite, perlite, large grain sand (pool filter sand), orchid mix (small bark chips), pumice, etc. Whatever you can find (I will often mix these materials), then limit organic mix (potting mix, cacti/succulent mix) to no more than 25%. I will grab whatever is currently available at my nursery and come up with a mix that has a very loose consistency. It really does not matter that much as long as it drains freely and has a small percentage of fine particles and low amounts of organic material. Dust the roots with rooting hormone (these products often contain an anti-fungal). Repot the plant with your new soil. Place in a protected, shady to partly shady location and do not water for at least a week. If it is outdoors, you want to avoid strong winds that may knock the plant over. Some plants may need support stakes, as Jades tend to be top heavy. The roots will need some time to heal for a week, or so before water is introduced. In addition, the plant will be at some risk for dehydration during this time, so a protected, lower light location will help. Mark
Wow Mark, this is so helpful. I'm going to tackle this project this weekend and will report back on the progress. If it works, I'll post a photo of my recovered tree and owe it's survival to you! Thanks! Heather
