I like the look of a mixture of different evergreens for a wind-break, rather than straight rows of 1 or 2 species. Could anyone give advise for a native plant mixture & establishing such a thing from young (12") plants. I have not surveyed the ground, but assume it is rich soil with lots of clay, reasonably well-drained. Tsuga canadensis and Abies balsamea are a couple I was thinking of, and maybe a few small deciduous trees, like Alnus viridis and Cornus mas (I know not native, but I like its fruit). Thanks.
Lots of clay and well-drained are oxymorons... clay doesn't drain well at all, and most conifers prefer rocky, or at least gritty, acidic soil. Also keep in mind fast growers vs others in terms of what's going to shade out which others as they grow. Hemlocks need light shade at least when young, but once they've grown, are quite large. Dogwood will need more sun, but will have a hard time competing for it with the larger trees.
If your primary goal is a windbreak, you are probably best to go with the one or two species idea. I know it doesn't appeal to your aesthetics but it really will make a better windbreak. The problem with mixing and matching species is that they all have different growth rates and shade tolerance. After a fairly short period, some species will come to dominate and you'll have sparse specimens of the less robust trees. If the screen is to be only 2 or 3 trees thick, stay away from the pines which don't retain their lower branches well as they mature. Hemlocks are not suited to exposed situations and probably wouldn't make a good windscreen. For good native windbreak trees, think about - Abies: balsamea, fraseri, concolor, lasiocarpa - Picea: pungens, glauca, rubens, engelmannii - Pseudotsuga menziesii - Thuja occidentalis - Juniperus virginiana - Chameacyparis thyoides All these trees are fairly tolerant of soil conditions....none except C. thyoides like really wet soil or standing water. The Juniperus is the most drought tolerant. If you expanded to non-native evergreens, there are many more choices, including a few pines. Simon
Thanks for the replies. With some further probing, I have found some more info on this topic. A well-planned windbreak will enhance a property's value through the years. The most effective windbreaks are a minimum of 3 (staggered) rows (minimum 5 if all deciduous), with each row a different species, but each tree within a row the same species. Having multiple species has many benefits: A uniform stand of one species is more likely to be severely injured by pests; can provide food and cover for wildlife; smaller trees & shrubs block spaces where lower limbs of taller conifers die off. Some porosity is desirable (to prevent problems from turbulance on leeward side,) but gaps in the windbreak are to be avoided. Here is a source of information, which recommends spacing for various-sized trees & shrubs: http://web1.msue.msu.edu/msue/imp/modzz/00001920.html After choosing the appropriate trees and planting them to an appropriate spacing considering mature height, should I simply keep them mulched thoroughly, gradually reducing the area of turf in between? (and, obviously, water as necessary the first year or two.)
How big is the area? Dimensions? You can plant conifer / evergreens as close as 12' apart and still get a nice grove. But in time, you may loose the inner limbs and foliage to shade. Cedar and hemlock may hold foliage longer if placed on the inside of a grove. Yew does even better, but could be added later as a second understory planting. I'm fond of setting color by color, like hemlock near blue atlas cedar; the latter is not native. So far, I prefer planting in 3's and 5's using a triangular type spacing. Tricolor beech looks awesome against evergreen, as does the fall color of some vine maple.
