Thanks I will goggle that book right away, lets see why that link didn't work> http://www.megagro.com/seed-germination-products.htm I believe a good dose of the humic acids will stimulate the root growth and then later inoculate with mycorrhizal fungi. A fungal link: http://www.premiertech.com/myke/mycorise/ Mycorrhizal fungi has been show to slow the progression of the verticillium fungi and it is not very susceptible to the anti-fungal Phyton 27, albeit it will knock it back if a drench is done well and deep. Phyton has been show to be very effective when uses just as foliar spray. If the dosage is reduced it is also a good fungicide for seeds beds. OK lets see if this link works, this is a hum dingier of a site: http://www.livearth.com/ ain'tcolors nice! I guess I can only put in one link or something.
I found the book on seed germination, but I think it would be better to barrow it. If someone wants to lone it to me you can get it here. I promise I will surely return it before you have to ask. : http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0006P0518/sr=1-1/qid=1195861715/ref=olp_tab_new?ie=UTF8&coliid=&me=&qid=1195861715&sr=1-1&seller=&colid=&condition=new
That book in the link is about 10 times too much, maybe try here and get it from Dr. Deno himself www.tct.netfirms.com/literature/troplibr.html , scroll down. Or maybe a library. I don't have the second supplement, so not sure of the updates included. Remember receiving the book and supplement promptly, and $5.00 returned as I'd miscalculated something. Seems the colours are messing up the links.
Yes. Supplements are extra, find Supplement #1 has worthwhile updates. Not familiar with the 2nd Supplement, maybe other members know.
Humic Acids are not really a supplement because if you don't have it everything dies including you and me, it is an essential. Humic,Fulvic an Ulmic see this link: http://www.richearth.net/
Some are claiming that the plant protein Harpin increases germination. I have some but I have not done a side by side comparison on that either. I do have a link to the company that makes it;http://www.edenbio.com All I can say for sure is their stock it very affordable, and if it their products do half of what they say they do it should double in no time. Now that is scientific isn't it? PS : In my opinion the best temperature for cold stratification seems to be between 6- 7 degrees. I have set it as low as 1 degree but some didn't make it the 90 day time frame nor the 120 day either. It is partly a matter of trial and error for the species or cultivar plus age of the seeds. As for warm stratification, I stack my bags on top of my computer, and I put a few bags in it as well, no place else is as warm. My motherboard stays at about 78 degrees when I am pushing it, and my CPU is never over 125.
I feel like I've witnessed the miracle of life!!! I have a handful of Hogyoku samara's with radicles. WOW i am so excited. Any special tips on giving them the optimum environment? So far I've moved them into 8" peat pots with very loose container mix moistened with a bit of humic shale and myco dissolved in distilled water. This link was informative.
Yea I got some, don't let them freeze or let the critters eat them, other wise congratulations, you are a momma now, no more vacations, do you need a heated blanket.
Well done Carlos from Argentine would appreciate any suggestions you have for germination He is having a hard time getting his seeds to germinate (see 'Is this a seedling?'
My experience with japanese maple seed to germinate is the fresher the seed, the faster and better % germiation you will get. Dry seed bought or collected needs to be soaked for 24-48 hrs. then stratified for 90-120 days. Fresh seed needs straification also but you don't need to soak them. Example: I was in France last August and found a japanese maple in Bayaux France that was probably over 100 yrs old and was covered with seed. I picked a lastic bagful and brought them back to Wisconsin, getting them through customs. They were green and some of the tips of the samaras were just starting to get a little brown/dry around the edges. I planted them in a bed of mulch not expecting too much. To my surprise, I had a very high percentage of them germinate. The rest may germinate over the next few years. Bottom line: The fresher the better for germination as far as I'm concerned.
In case it helps, I am going to tell you my experience in seeds germination. As you probably remember, I am the one that has had problems with germination of seeds. Now it seems to be history, since I have achieved that they sprouted. What has happend is that stratification period was not 90-120 days but + 180 and still I have seeds in the fridge. Osakazukys seeds are just sprouting after a year in the fridge.
Re: Maple seeds Just saw your request for seed source. Try www.AngelgroveSeeds.com, Toll free 1-888-596-4053 in Harbour Grace ,Newfoundland. They may be able to help you. Good luck.
Hi Caferman, I experienced the same non-productive practice of trying to germinate my own seeds and then grow them as understock for grafting. I finally gave up and purchased 1 year old seedlings for grafting and then I finally gave up grafting and spent my money, time and energy on year old liners. Good luck with your endeavor. If you are young you can learn as you go, which I did. for 25 years. Now I am 59 years old and I want instant gratification - it is worth the money to me. Good luck and thank you for sharing your progress with us at UBC. Sam
Sam, first of all, you are still young!!! Getting up to date, let me tell you my so called "improvments". Of course, all my knowledge comes from you people at UBC. The stratification takes, generally, more than 90-120 days. Once the seeds sprouts, I put them in a 5x5 cell trays, using a mix of peat and perlite. Due to the different season I have, seeds sprouts in the middle of the winter. Therefore, I have to grow them indoors, under 12-14 hs artifical light. The seedlings seems to grow well until they spread the second pair of leaves. Then, and I don´t know why, leaves begins to show scorched borders, dry out and falls. Most of the seedlings remain good, with healthy buds. Others shows something like die back or die. The ones with healthy buds are now with leaves and harding off. Those with the die back seems to be frozen, nothing happen. I took the Kaitain4 advice and I´m using some EM to improve soil and avoid damping off. The thing is that the only EM I found in Argentina are in Bokashi form. I did mix Bokashi with the peat, worm humus and perlite in recent sprouts but I´m afraid something could be wrong since the mix is now covered with fungal hifas. These could be good ones or pathogenic. I don´t know, I´ll take my chances. As soon as I can, I will buy mycorrhizas. I have to wait until some relatives will go to USA to bring them on. As you can see, it´s all a challenge for me to grow maples. I have no elements, no plants, no good fertilisers, etc. Just hope. Regards, Carlos
