I recently purchased this 3-1/2 feet Viridis Maple from a local nursery. It was wrapped in a burlap and lot of pure clay. I plan to plant it in a container and place it outside in a sun/shade area. I removed the burlap and tapped on the clay to remove it as I thought it would cause the tree to suffocate. I removed almost 70% of the clay this way, most of which was at the bottom of the burlap. I then added some gravel to the container bottom, then added good potting mix and then placed the tree. Later I added some more potting mix on the sides and top of the root ball. - My concern will removal of extra clay and burlap hurt the tree or send it in a shock? - When I added water it did not drain immediately (in ~3 mins) as there is still some clay around the rootball and now some clay is also mixed in the potting mix. Is this an issue? - Do you recommend removing 100% of the clay surrounding the root? if so will the tree be able to deal with 100% change in the surrounding soil?
I have seen advice here to suggest that washing off all of the clay (in your case) with a hose and then replanting in a good mix of soil/compost is the way to go. I have never done this with any of my trees, but I can see no reason why it should not work well so long as you avoid root damage and/or drying out I am open to criticism on ths though .....
Nurseries grow B&B stock in high clay soils to allow for easier digging from the field, and to help the ball "stick together". I'd remove as much clay as possible without damaging any major roots. The tree may suffer temporary shock from a major soil change, but it will be worth it in the long run. I'd leave the tree in a shady spot for a season until it can form new roots in the new soil medium. You should probably add some beneficial mychorrizae to encourage root development. Be careful not to plant it too deep. Plant it so the highest roots are just below the soil. Don't bury the trunk. Often times, B&B trees may have soil packed a few inches up the trunk. Be careful not to confse that fo the correct planting height. There are alot of people saying that putting gravel in the base of pots is a bad idea. I did so for several years without any obvious problems, but this year stopped the practice.
I'd remove the burlap. I read in this forum somewhere that a University did studies (U WA?) that showed the burlap failed to decompose. There is a high grade burlap that is supposed to degrade, but even when I know that was the kind used I still don't like the idea of leaving it (personal feeling). Also, I typically don't remove all the clay but try and remove enough that I can see little feeder roots. I use the back end of a hammer to pull off a little at a time. I most definitely do not leave the crumbs in the hole. I throw them into a spot that needs an elevation change and that won't be planted in any time soon. Further, I'm careful to gently and carefully scrape the clay away from the trunk flare (also learned about here). Often trees are initially planted too deep and then when they are removed from the field the process pushes the clay up the trunk. Get it away from the flare.
I've heard from several arborists who wash all the soil off root balls, with plenty of success. It's not my first choice if the field-grown tree root ball is similar soil. But you are planting in a pot, and I'm not. You should be okay and the weather being cooler should work for you.
Thanks a lot all above for your prompt responses. As suggested I removed 100 % of the clay and planted it back into the pot at a right height. The tree is kept in a pot in my car garage where it gets only indirect sunlight and seems to be doing well. Leaves are still soft and green....no drying or falling of leaves. Bark when slightly scrapped looks green on inside. One question I have how will I know for sure the tree is doing well and not deteriorating internally? Thanks, acrlvr.
The Bottom Line • Balled and burlapped plant materials usually contain soil significantly different than that of the transplant site. • Differences in soil texture will impede both water movement and root establishment. • Root defects can only be found and corrected if root ball soil is removed. • Proper root preparation combined with best practices for installation will greatly improve tree establishment and survival in any landscape. http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda chalker-scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/B&B root ball.pdf
