I have a Laceleaf Japanese Maple, and this is the second year that the leaves have done this. I'm not sure why, but if left alone all the leaves will fall by mid to late July. The leaves just turn brown, get very brittle and dry up, eventually spreading back to the branch and falling off. I removed quite a few dead and black branches this year that didn't even sprout leaves. The spread of the tree is now about half what it was a month ago because of the die back. I'm not sure what this is, and keep getting conflicting information about possible treatments. Can you help me?
Nobody can say for sure what is involved just looking at these pictures and reading your account. If you have already been given suggestions of possible sources for the problem then that is as far as you can go with this approach. Next would be to try and get a precise identification from Indiana Cooperative Extension. Ask the nearest Extension office what they offer. They may be able to send samples provided by you to a lab for testing and diagnosis. A fee is likely to be required.
Hello,I was going to reply to a similar issue posted by 'Shnphan' a few hours ago.Though hard to tell from info so far,the symptoms look like something I'm ashamed to say I'm quite expert at,and that's overwatering in spring. Do the leaves first go limp,then soggy looking? then as you say dry up but stay on the tree for many months? As in your case it's happening each year,I wonder if you have poor drainage,planted deep or very wet winters/spring.....or if you're as silly as me,panicked when hit by an early spring heatwave and overwatered.Winter wetness doesn't usually show symptoms until after first leaves.They always leaf out well in spring but this is just using stored energy.In my case I've overwatered before they've had a chance to develop a decent root system in spring.Have a feel in the soil to check wetness and take appropriate action but I'm afraid that'll probably be just about it for the tree for this year. Shnphan if you're reading this,if you can return the tree,then do so.I'm sure you won't see any improvement in two weeks.Although my trees usually recover eventually,you will not have a tree to speak of for this year.Usually the leaves will dry up,hang on the tree for the rest of the year,and you may also get some limbs blacken and be lost.Perhaps in your climate it'll all be too much for the tree anyway.If you really can't return it,don't throw it away,put it somewhere maple friendly if you can,let it dry out a bit and it may come back but probably not until next year.(it amazes me that they can sometimes survive the year leafless) Maybe one day I'll learn my lesson!
Houzi...thank you thank you thank you! I live in a place where the soil is pretty much clay, and the winters and spring are very wet! What you describe (leaves look soggy, dry up and shrivel, eventually turning some branches black) is exactly what is happening. Unfortunately short of digging up my entire yard and replacing it will well over 8 inches of soil there is nothing I can do to amend it enough to change the moisture content in any part of my yard. Perhaps this tree is not the best pick for me and should go "live" somewhere more hospitable! :)
Yes , the leaves went limp and soggy eventually crisping . I probably did drown it the first soaking . Boy I thought I knew better . But It has been kept quite wet . I f I did want to play this out should I replant and remove crisp leaves . I am thinking I should have tossed all the clay from the rootball that I put back in . I do believe that over watering would be the main reason for the loss of leaves as well as wind and pruning . Thanks . Good luck with the dissectum .
Far be it from me to give advice to you after this post . It is possible too plant on a mound Or raised planter . I had good luck with a post hole digger 3 - 4' down through the clay then fill with stone and a raised planter .
Micki,don't thank me,it's not good news I bring.There's not many ways to kill a JM but too much water is one of them I'm afraid.I've been very lucky to have my plants regrow the next year, as reading other's accounts they usually die.I think my luck is going to run out with a little 'Aconitifolium' though this time,it's blackening very quickly. I'm sorry I have no experience with heavy clay soils but there are many people on here who have and may be able to suggest the best way round this.I know ammending the soil is not recommended,all I can suggest is planting it high with the root flare well above the landscape level then mounding earth around it to disguise it.See what others suggest.You have a few buds present so you may be able to monitor it's progress if it has any,but as I said,the best scenario usually for me is a dead looking tree for this year,and we know the worst...good luck. Shnphan,I still say return the tree if you can.Although perhaps a bargain,at best you'll have an ugly eyesore this year,a dead looking tree.If you're stuck with it,I'd say yes,do anything to give it as little stress as possible the rest of year,the damage is already done,shade it also.It's gonna depend on wether the tree has enough energy left to re-bud/root,and fend off any diseases that it's going to be more vunerable to now.I'd say leave the leaves on just for monitoring purposes,new buds would push them off if you're lucky enough for this to occur....again good luck,but the odds are against us. On a brighter note,my little 'Autumn Moon' came back this year after spending last year leafless.Obviously it's no bigger than it was a year ago but it's looking lovely and lime green(I'm keeping it shaded for now)
