@Acerholic , okay , thank you, so I probably will place Tsuma gaki somewhere in the front area at the fence with the birch. I also considered to put it in the middle of the lawn as I think it will not get so much bigger than it is now, does it? But in the middle of the lawn it will be green in green during the summer, so probably its better to put it between a yellow and a red one...I will try some combinations tomorrow I worked all day in the heat, but now we have nice, cool rain, so that we will sleep very well.
@sun, that sounds lovely to have some rain after the heat. The maples will enjoy it. Tsuma gaki will get to about 7 ft in ten years. It is one of those trees where you never seem to know where to put it tbh. Near a red and it clashes in the Autumn, near a green and it does not stand out in the Summer. But near a yellow and that is where you get the best of both worlds. Summer and Autumn. Have a relaxing evening A.
That's a Coral bark maple (sango kaku) , the nicholsonii mine will last into late October early November re the leaf drop dependent on weather? they have lovely spring colours (see pic) a delicate sandy hue to the leaves then will turn olive green for the summer, then i have noticed as mine is now getting older the leaves tend to twist and will show the under side of the leaf which is a light red colour this adds an extra focal point to this cultivar , this cultivar is also noted for it's very strong side ways growth as well.
@Acerholic, yesterday, I was preparing the whole front area so that the man with the root grinder machine (I hope this word exists in Englisch) can come. Now I have to tidy up before I place my new maples as a first suggestion. I think I will be able to post a foto this afternoon. Atm I really do not have any idea were Mr. Sun will go, but I will find a nice spot for him eventually.
@sun, yes I totally understand the root grinder machine. It works brilliantly to remove old tree stumps. You will probably place and replace over the coming days or weeks tbh. But the important thing is to get it right 'FOR YOU'. Mr Sun is quite a low spreading maple, so somewhere you can see it closeby whilst sat in your house in the Autumn would be ideal. All great fun though A. Look forward to perhaps seeing a photo later. Preparing for storm Francis here at the moment, does not look too good tomorrow!!!!
@Acerholic Update: Before the root grinder After the root grinder First idea of combination This is our north fence, the big ornamental gives shade from about 1 o clock where Shirazz is standing on the left the shade reaches the right side between 5 30 and 7 p.m. From left to right: Shirazz-Autumn Moon-Beni Otake-Butterfly-Tsuma Gaki-Moonrise-Atropurpureum-Mr.Sun I consider putting Shin Deshojo in the middle of the lawn, am not quite sure as I think it might look good in spring and summer, but behind the ornamental cherry gets bright scarlet red in fall, but only for 10 days. Mr.Sun is just there for the moment, I think it will get too much shade from Atropurpureum in the longterm. I would appreciate any feedback concerning coloring combination, distance between the individual trees and sun exposure. Irrigation will be provided. Whole area: As I find it a challenge to protect the pots from falling over, I now consider planting them before winter, I am aware that I might have to dig them up, if they are not happy at their spots. Please imagine a dark green very narrow cherrylaurel hedge along the fence behind the maples (will be planted in fall) and imagine the box for irrigation and the house for the lawnmower robot gone...
@Acerholic I would like to let as many of them grow to (almost) their mature height. I can cut some branches of the neighbour's birch to give Beni Otake more space above.
@sun soooooo busy A. Very impressed you must really ache!!? First of all the Autum (September) is a very good time to plant. The soil is still warm enough for some root development before the frosts. But back to your colour combination, IMO your order you have shown here today is 'perfect'. I would stagger them and not have them in a line though. Regarding the Laurel hedge, this will take up a lot of moisture over the years, so irrigation is very important. The roots on Laurel will compete with the maples, so in several years time some root pruning to the Laurel maybe necessary. Maples are not keen on competition. I have Cherry Laurel hedges, so I wanted to let you know now. Regarding Mr Sun, if it were me I would have this near your robot mower area, so that it can be seen from your house, whilst you sit having a coffee on a blustery Autumn day. !!! If I may suggest, do try not to have a straight border. Trees that are placed more into the lawn create an interest for the eyes to say 'what is beyond or behind'. I don't like to see everything from one view point, IMO it is important to have to explore a little. I would not place Shindeshojo in the middle of the lawn if it were me. In the Summer this cultivar can have its dull moments and will not give those lovely Spring reds all the time. Anything for the centre needs to say 'look at me'. But equally I would not place it dead centre and it does not have to be a maple. Think contrasts and variety. Think Amazing maples and crazy conifers !!! I do hope this has helped a little, do come back with more questions if needed. D
@Acerholic, thank you so much D, I will not plant them in a straight line and not too close to the hedge and I will put Shin deshojo somewhere else. So you think Mr. Sun is especially nice in fall, as I didn't plan to buy it, I haven't seen a foto with fall colours yet. Do you think the distance between the individual trees is too close?
@Acerholic There is another question that has turned up: Shall I keep the fine root grind? Can it be of any use to put in a soil medium? I read that many of you use pine bark as addition to their soil. Of course I know that it is not the same.
@Acerholic, I know that you do not want to start a discussion about growing mediums, but if there is an existing thread where I can read some of the 'recipes' that otheres use successfully could you write me the name of it or the link or could you tell me your recipe (if you want as Private Message)? I am sure there are many good recipes, I just want to make sure to give my new maples a good start. I will have to check if the ingredients you use will be available here as well, though.
@sun, regarding Mr Sun here is a link to show the Autumn colours. I think you will like them A. Mr. Sun | Mendocino Maples Nursery
@sun, just saw this one about growing medium A. Yes it can cause a lot of heated discussions on the forum and a lot reccomend not amending the soil at all. But I have done both and have found that the maples I planted with amended soil have done better. I dig a fairly shallow but wide square hole, approx 2 and a half times the diameter of the rootball. I mix the removed soil with horticultural grit, John innes no 3 compost, horticultural potting bark and peat. I also dust the roots with ericoid Mycorrhizal. I like a very open and loose substrate for my maples. I then backfill allowing the root flare to show. I also mound my trees slightly to allow for some sinkage. For me this allows the roots to spread into the surrounding area quickly and hence my trees are stronger. Now as I have said before, this goes against what Lind Chalker-Scott has written about saying this is wrong. And she is a far cleverer person than me in the world of horticulture. But all I can say is that this method really does work for me, having tried both ways. I am on clay soil but have removed lorry loads over the years bringing in good topsoil. Your soil maybe very free draining already, so the need for amending may not arise. Please look at both sides of the argument A. You may then consider that my way is rather old fashioned and out dated. But it is my way. Hope that has not caused a raft of angry postings. Not my intention to upset or anger anybody. D
@Acerholic, thank you D, don't worry I wanted you opinion. But I do not know most of the things you mentioned. horticultural grit: is this the size like the grit they put on the streets when it snows or can you tell me about which size the stones are? I do not know John innes nr. 3, is that a soil for special plants like rhododendron or just a good planting soil? Potting bark: is that the same that you can use to mulch, or is it a special one to mix with soil, is it important to be for example pine or is any bark just fine? Do you think rhododendron humus can be a good base for me as well?It is with peat. As I have a lot of stones of different sizes underneath anyway.... Thank you once again.
@sun, this is a 'potting grit' so it is actually very fine. Any garden centre will know what this is if you ask. But if your substrate is naturally stoney you will not need to add this. John innes no3 is compost for 'mature' plants and trees. This link will show you what I use. Westland John Innes No.3 Mature Plant Compost 35L | Van Hage Garden Centre My friends use Ericaceuos compost when planting their maples so your Rhodedenron mix will be fine. I just like the little bit extra that John Innes no 3 gives in the way of a feed for the extra few months after planting. The potting bark is 'not' the same as a mulching bark, it is much finer and made from pine, so has a very low PH. Again I use it to loosen my soil and add a little acidity. I add peat to help with acidity also and to help retain a little more moisture in the first couple of years, I use very little of this these days as it is not an environmentally friendly thing to do. I am just using my old stock. As far as a bark for a mulch is concerned, then any decorative bark that is sold at garden centres is fine. Remember, maples are shallow rooting so the surface mulch gives these roots protection during very hot spells. Please remember though A, the hole you dig should be fairly shallow but wide, with the tree appearing and is higher than the surrounding area. It will, sink a little, but you do not want it in a bowl. And do not cover the trunk in any way with soil or mulch. That is why we like to see the root flare, it shows that the trunk is clear of soil that can over time otherwise cause rot. Hope that has cleared up a few questions A. But if not, then do come back with more. D
@Acerholic , thank you, that helps a lot, now I know that what I used lately should be fine, and I will plant them as you described. I have hired some manpower for Thursday to dig the trench for the hedge and I would also ask them to dig the holes for the maples on the hill. I think I will plant them exactly as on the foto I posted. Do I have to wait a month or so or can I plant them whenever I`m ready? I always want to get things done once I`ve decided what I want to do.
@sun, all potted maples in pots can in reason be planted at anytime. The reason why people prefer early Spring or Autumn is to avoid frosts and heat. If your weather forecasts over the next two weeks is mild but not hot, then I see no problem in planting this week. Do get your workmen to not dig too deep, but wide and square. Look forward to seeing the results on Thursday A.
