How to avoid stormy tragedy/treewise KarinaL & Summerlily, I seek your kind approval to start this discussing as a new thread as it does depart from plants and touch more on Engineering but nevertheless related to plant stability. Ones concern should be raised to extreme when we are faced with unprecedented volumes of rain. In many cases the ground has turned mushy; it's like trying to support a high-rise building with a liquid cement foundation. We should all pool our minds and come out with as many possible solutions to make tall plants more stable under very wet and stormy conditions. Here then is my contribution. I had stated that when a tree topples, it traces the action of a first class lever. I was wrong because it is actually behaving like a 3rd lever with the effort applied in the middle. The root ball acts like a base plate or at least as far as the area where the main lateral roots resist bending. Looking at the problem from an engineering point of view, can we devise a mechanism to shore up the plant's stability. Here is the area where we can have our creative or inventive minds put to the test. First we need to check with the weather-man if we can predict with a fair degree of accuracy the direction of the prevailing wind. If not (like in tornado prone areas/where you take it as fated) then the structure you need to invent becomes more complex as you are looking at a 3D instead of a 2D aspect. The simplest and a rather ugly solution is to tie a strong steel cable up the main trunk as high as possible without risking trunk fracture and ground the cable in line with the wind direction. Can we then create stability and incorporate aesthetics at the same time.? One good way is to increase the base plate of the root ball by extension in all directions (#3D effect). How is this done? First examine the lateral roots and determine the points where you believe the bending may occur. Then measure the distance of these points from the base of the trunk for example like y feet. Then you go to the ironworks people and purchase 4 very strong and thick steel girder beams of lengths measuring within the range of 4 to 6 y feet. Measuring from the center of each beam, make two points at 5/8 or 6/8 of y feet one on each side of center.Then you drill 4 rivet holes about 3/8 or 1/2 inch diameter at each point on all 4 girders. Then you further drill 4 rivet holes at the ends of each beam and at points 1&1/2y feet measured from center ( if your beam's length is 4y feet; more if you start with a longer beam). These 16 rivet points become your anchors to the ground. For anchor posts you need 16 lengths of the same size as your lateral beams, each of length 1/2 y feet or 3/4 y feet if your tree height is more than 3 y, or y feet if your tree height exceeds 6y feet. Bury these anchors in massive cement blocks at the correct 16 locations to coincide with the locking 16 outer points on your lateral beams. Do not cement first but rivet first all your beams both lateral and vertical , then only cement. The lateral beams can be buried but just deep enough to touch the top of these lateral roots without exerting any pressure on them. I hope you get a mental picture as I shun drawing any diagrams if i can get away with it. I appreciate this remedy can be termed as labor intensive and expensive; but isn't your life priceless? I feel confident these cement anchors more than compensate for the loosened nature of saturated soil we are now faced with. I welcome readers to contribute your expertise or your originality/imagination I would request readers to kindly respect all contributions without any criticisms on the functionality of their concepts. This would ensure a congenial atmosphere and help us concentate on the issue at hand. Thank you.