I currently am dealing with too challenges I also live in cookstown Ontario. 1) My lawn is approx. 65 feet deep by120 feet wide.For some reason it doesnt seem to grow very "lush" troughout the summer although I water it regulary. Probable cause ,in my opinion, a) the ground underneath is clay based and very compact b) the whole area is expossed to sunlight all day This being the case what can I do to insure a healthy "lush" lawn for this summer? 2) My wife bought me 6 -4 foot emerald cedars last year and 2 died by the end of last summer 2 more are going brown. What can I do to save the rest?
Many factors affect the health of the lawn - appropriate choice of grass, nature of the soil, sun exposure, climate, etc. From the descripiton of your soil, I wonder if that may be where you should start off. The foundation for a nice healthy lawn is a good soil, with good aeration and drainage. Compacted clay is not going to help at all. If the soil is that poor, it might be best to start afresh, take out the existing lawn, prepare the soil properly - which means carting good quality top soil in, or amending the current soil. Then, layering new sod or reseeding completely. If you are really stuck with what you have and complete lawn renovation is not an option, try aerating the soil. Manual aeration will be a real toil under your current soil conditions - so, you might have to rent a machine to do it. In addition, you might want to consider assessing the build up of thatch - a layer of dead vegetative material and rhizomes. If the thatch buildup is substantial, dethatching may be due. Whatever the option, it is likely to mean a substantial amount of sweat equity. So, the next suggestion is to get a professional and qualified landscape maintainance outfit to analyse your problems and do the job.
For some background on use of organic material in home gardens... http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda ...ltural Myths_files/Myths/Compost overdose.pdf
Some great advice here. If it were my lawn, I'd do a soil test to see what nutrients are needed, do a core aeration, topdress with compost to improve the texture of the soil and add microbes and nutrients and add whatever the soil test recommends. You should find this helpful. http://www.american-lawns.com/lawns/aeration.html http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/knowhow/yardandgarden/article/0,16417,482229,00.html Maintain organically: http://www.city.toronto.on.ca/compost/organic.htm http://www.organicgardening.com/feature/0,7518,s1-5-18-142,00.html As for your emerald cedars, I'm thinking they may have died due to compacted soil under the rootball that held water. When you dig them up look to see if the soil is compacted. Newt
Tons of water, and a good spring, summer, and fall, fertilizing program. Pobably make a world of difference, and only cost ya $30 for a bag of fert. Use generously! Jim
Jimweed, maybe you missed the fact that Mikerrir said he has compacted clay soil. Tons of water will make a pond in my opinion. I don't see fertilizer alone breaking up the soil and improving the tilth for better drainage or root penetration. Maybe I missed something. Newt Newt
Great links, Newt. And I agree - excessive watering on Mikerrir's compacted clay soil will only make matters worse. I don't see how one can get a healthy lawn on compacted clay unless the soil is improved.
Well, I guess it depends on what you want to spend. And fertilizer is not going to break up compacted clay, no arguing that. But if your lawn is green and "lush" in the spring, then I would say your lawn can grow in the same clay-based soil in the summer. Ontario is hot and dry in the summers and needs plenty of water to stay green, exspecially on a full sun lawn. You just have to water and fert more if you have exsessive clay or sandy soil, it doens't fix the problem, but is cheaper and easier in the mean time. Can't go wrong with an aerating either. But definately the links and suggestions above are great, and maybe a full lawn renovation is the answer. But outa the 500 or so lawncare customers I have you would be amazed to see what turf will grow on, with suficient water. And of course I don't cut them so I pour the 30-3-18, right to them spring,summer,and fall. Well I got about a million span worms to kill today I better get to work, good luck with your lawn. Jim.
Hi Jim, I see your point, but I think we approach it from a different perspective. With your method you feed the grass and use lots of water and synthetic fertilizers. With my method I feed the soil and use less water and fertilizers. I feel in the end my method is more environmentally friendly by using less fertilizer that can run off into streams and lakes that cause excess algae growth and can cause harm to fish, etc. It also conserves more water. Here in the US we have to pay for our water if we don't use a well. Newt
thanks for all the great feedback.i like the idea of airating,followed by top dressing then providing adequet Natural fertilizers and water. i will check under the root balls of my cedars for compact soil. michael
