HELP! on Shishigashira

Discussion in 'Maples' started by Atapi, Apr 18, 2014.

  1. Atapi

    Atapi Well-Known Member

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    Hi, today i just found out my Shishigashira main trunk begins to turn dark color. Is this a disease or winter dieback since we had a hash winter this year?. The other branches are still look green except the main trunk going up about 6-8 inches. The leaves begin to come out nicely...
    This tree has about 2" trunk dia. and last week it was looking ok with green/gray color trunk. Please help to ID what is the symptom and what should I do to help the tree.
    Thank you so much, Steven

    P.S: I attach a few photos that I just took this evening.
     

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  2. emery

    emery Renowned Contributor Maple Society 10 Years

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    Atapi, I'm afraid the news is not good for your shishigashira. The black smudging is dead cambium, the vascular tissue underneath the outer bark which performs the exchange of nutrients and water between the roots and leaves. This condition is usually caused by a bacterial infection, perhaps pseudomonas. In my experience the bark is also dead where you see the light brown colour. There is sufficient energy in the body of the plant to let it leaf out, but it will eventually sicken and die. (I had an sango kaku like this that kept its leaves for a whole season practically under these circumstances).

    If the infection rings the bark, it's finished. Otherwise, you could try spraying with a copper solution, but at best it will have a large wound and need years of babying. IMHO, it's best to replace it.

    As for what caused it, it could be related to cold, although shishigashira is a hardy cultivar. I don't know how cold it was for you this winter, or whether you had a big freeze after the sap started rising. Usually bacteria enters wounded bark, and given the spread of the problem, freezing would explain it. Also over-fertilizing -- especially with urea-based nitrogen -- or over-watering (or a too-wet winter) can weaken the tree and make it more susceptible to vascular problems.

    That's my opinion anyway, maybe some one else will see hope where I don't... sorry.

    -E
     
  3. maf

    maf Generous Contributor Maple Society 10 Years

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    Ditto what Emery said.

    Sad to see; if the dark area girdles the trunk then the tree will die. I call them zombies because they are like the living dead.

    One possibility for salvaging something is air-layering a branch or two; you have nothing to lose at this stage and there is a chance (however slim) that the top of the plant will live long enough to form roots and make a smaller plant or two.
     
  4. AlainK

    AlainK Renowned Contributor Forums Moderator Maple Society 10 Years

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    I managed to save an 'Arakawa' that had the same symptom.

    I cut the tree below the grey girdle but above the grafting point, and applied copper sulfate (Bordeaux mix).

    The year after, a new branch developped very strongly.

    It too died. I repeated the process a second time, and it's now its second year in a seemingly good health.

    The last two pics show it today, with a close-up of the base to show how well some Acer palmatum can heal well ;-)
     

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  5. JT1

    JT1 Contributor 10 Years

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    Emery said it all in great detail, taking the words out of my mouth.

    Learn what you can from this tree by checking the roots. If it was planted in a clay bowl, chances are that the roots are in decline and they will look unhealthy and feel somewhat sticky. Sometimes when you squeeze them between your finger, the outer layer of the root will break or separate away from decay. If the roots are not too wet or decayed, then it could be the other causes that Emery mentioned, which is very hard to tell by examining the tree. That's where thinking back and knowing the history of the tree will tell the story of why.
     
  6. Atapi

    Atapi Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for all your helpful input.
    Well the tree was planned on somewhat high ground and existing landscape so the soil is very well established and good. I think the cold shot like Emery mentioned that hit Northern Virginia last week although we don't have snow like JT1 received but the temp was dropped right around freezing point (between 29F to 35F) for all last week. I remembered last Sun, I started to see the leaves begin to come out and the trunk look green but just over a short week it turned 180.

    When it dies, I will dig up and examine the roots condition in hope to learn from what JT1 recommended.
    It is sad cause this tree has a nice large trunk and shape but now knowing it will slowly die in front of your eyes (like cancer :) is not a happy feeling.

    One last question: may I be able to use this spot for the next tree and is their anything that I need to treat it for?. Thanks again.
     
  7. maf

    maf Generous Contributor Maple Society 10 Years

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    AlainK's solution is a good one in the right circumstances, but will not work in this case because the darkened area goes down as far as the graft point and beyond. It somewhat looks as if the pathogen entered at (or near) the graft point and is working its way up the trunk. The air-layering method I mentioned will work as long as the black area does not spread up the branches before the roots form. Warmer weather may halt the spread of the infection, but that won't save the tree because the long term damage is already done

    As the other guys have alluded to, these types of problems are usually in some way related to drainage issues or transplanting issues. When a JM is badly stressed, for whatever reason, it will succumb to pathogens that would not bother a perfectly healthy tree.

    Edit: Just posted as Atapi replied.

    One question, Atapi, how long have you had this maple? I have seen similar sudden spring deaths in first-winter-with-me plants that seem to have not adapted quickly enough to the outdoors environment after having previously been grown in a greenhouse or polytunnel.
     
  8. Atapi

    Atapi Well-Known Member

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    Hi Maf,

    I just bought this tree last Falls and planted right around Nov. so yes this is the first yr it was planted in my garden. So it may not have enough times to adapt to my environment plus the hash winter that we received this yr. I am not sure what the tree's condition before cause when I got the tree when all the leaves have just gone, only branches.
    The dead cambium almost started from the graft point (low) so I don't think I can cut it like AlainK suggested and I am not having much success with air-layering either. Well, I may just enjoy what it shows now and perhaps looking for another 'lion mane' replacement.

    Thanks,
     
  9. maplesandpaws

    maplesandpaws Active Member

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    Not to side-track the original intent of this thread, but perhaps this is what has been partly to blame with all the maples I have lost (in spring) the past few years. Kansas has a harsh climate, be it summer with (sometimes insanely) hot temperatures for weeks on end along with typically higher humidity, or winter with the cold temps and dry air. And always, the wind... I think my keeping my trees in the garage the previous winters did contribute, not allowing the trees to reach proper dormancy for a long enough period, along with the likely higher humidity, but since 95% of the maples I have acquired have come from elsewhere - Oregon, Washington, Ohio, or New York - they may not have been able to properly adjust to our climate before winter set in. Combine that with having to endure our harsher summers, as mentioned, and it was just a recipe for disaster...

    Thus far - and I really, REALLY hope I'm not jinxing things by saying this - with the exception of my Squitty who I am watching carefully, all my trees look to have made it through winter with flying colors, despite the cold they had to endure (of course, we would have one of the colder winters in recent memory the first time I decide to over-winter the trees outside!).

    Sorry to hear about your Shishigashira Atapi, I feel your pain - I have been there more times than I care to admit, but it hurts no less each time.
     
  10. maf

    maf Generous Contributor Maple Society 10 Years

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    Atapi, yes that seems like the cause, not enough time to acclimatise to your garden. It is a long shot, but some nurseries guarantee their trees for a few months after purchase, not sure if you have that option. In the future if you can find a local nursery that grows its maples outdoors you will have struck acer gold.

    ---

    Andrea, I agree your losses are most likely due to issues with acclimatisation to your harsh growing conditions. I have never had to deal with a climate as unforgiving as that in Kansas and I respect you for making the effort to grow JM's there; it is a given that you will lose more trees than people in more moderate climates, and some of the more delicate types will always struggle in that environment.

    Wishing happy growing in 2014 for all!
     
  11. JT1

    JT1 Contributor 10 Years

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    This time of year a lot of people here in the US are applying lawn fertilizers. Keep this away from your maple beds as most lawn fertilizers are too strong for Japanese maples and contain urea-based nitrogen. The only exception would be most organic lawn fertilizers.

    If the spread of black stops, your best bet is to limit stress and keep the tree growing (sustainable slow and steady growth is key). The pathogens that cause the dead cambium layer take over when the opportunity presents itself through stress, weakness, and stagnate growth.

    (Note, this is a bit controversial) Believe it or not, sometimes outbreaks can be limited by using a weak organic balanced fertilizer. Keeping the tree healthy and keeping it growing (sustainable growth is key! with time for the growth to harden off in late Summer) will limit the pathogens ability to take over. But too much of a good thing will do it in too, by over fertilizing and using quick release nitrogen, you will fuel the outbreak and make it a quick end (hence the controversial part, because most people over use fertilizer). Also keep in mind, excessive long leggy growth as a result of over fertilizing becomes a stress on the tree when the roots can't keep up with this big liability of moisture loss going into the hotter part of Summer through transpiration of all the new leaves.

    If there is a tree warranty, ignore any advice on here and follow all of the nursery's directions so that they do not have a reason to disagree with anything you do and void your warranty.
     
  12. Atapi

    Atapi Well-Known Member

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    Thanks maplesandpaws, maf and JT1 for your follow up comments.

    Most of my maples are in the ground thus i can't take them to the shelter like what maplesandpaws has recommended. The more I read all of your comments, the more I think although people said it is easy to grow and maintain JMs but I believe doing it right required lots of attention with more details.
    I will keep my eyes on the downward development of this tree and will check with the nursery about their warranty. Do you think the nursery folks are familiar with this symptom and truly - is it their fault?.

    I am thankful for all the inputs that you all have shared with this forum. I have learned a lots from them.

    P.S: On my previous reply, I meant to say last week temp was dropped down near freezing point only at night but during the day, it goes back to mid 40s.
     

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