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Discussion in 'Maples' started by RJJ, Feb 28, 2007.
How many scions per rootstock do you usually graft?
One. Mutlitple grafts put the plant at a great risk as each grafting injury or scar can serve as a point of entry for pathogens or invaders. Besides novelty, the best reason for grafting multiple scions on a rootstock is to preserve the scion being grafted and use the RS to push out more scion wood so that you can then properly graft the the single scion on a future rootstock. This is most common during a rootstock shortage.
Of course you can graft in which ever way serves you and your interests best.
Very common to graft to scions up high on a root stock however if desired trait/effect is for producing a standard. My dwarf maple scions photo attached high on the understock to produce a globe effect but higher off the ground. These scions are from a shrub Acer palmatum that grows very slowly so now the shrub will have two scions to fuel it. One scion as mentioned is the norm most certainly but not mentioned was that typically any deciduous scion should have at least 3 sets of buds on it.
P.s. Last photo I added of another "Standard Graft". This time of a Conifers.There's no harm in attaching scions to an understock. The main reasons more than one would be attached are for any plant with a cascading weeping habit (so grafting these up high a person will never see the calloused over wound on that graft union). An example would be Picea abies 'Pendula' or a deciduous weeper such as Fagus sylvatica 'Purple Fountain'. The other reason typically is for a standard.
More than one scion can be used if you are top working a tree. I also used several scions when I grafted a dissectum cultivar on a standard. I found that the graft scar was less noticable and that the great disparity between the caliper of the rootstock and the scion did not occur as is usually the case with older dissectums. I grafted three scions about 6 inches apart starting about 36 inches above the ground. I rotated each graft about 120 degrees as I went up the rootstock. Now after about 6 years, the trunk has a gradual taper between each graft union rather than the usual buldge. The tree has also developed much quicker than the ones with single grafts that I did at the same time. It's more work, but the results are worth it.
when gafting jmaples, how long does the average graft take to "take"?
what are some common signs a graft has failed? does it vary by cultivar?
All grafts 6 to 8 weeks. scion will prematurely break bud (wound has not calloused) and scion will eventually die. black bark coloration around buds or especially at graft union on scion is bad news.
RE: Dale grafting going up as he attaches scions...
Very difficult to do if the scions are in close proximaty
as in my photos. Whether bud strip or tape or other means
to attach scions, starting at top and going down is much simpler.
In fact, I couldn't do what Dale is doing nor would I even try.
Dale obviously is spacing those scions far enough apart not to
bump into other scions. Just worth mentioning.
Thank you all for your knowledge. I will post a pic of a few grafts I did that took.
My first successful grafts; Viridis and Sagara Nishiki
Those look real nice. When the understocks are trimmed up for grafting, spraying them with a fungicide/algaecid combo is a really good idea. Other times to spray are when the understocks break bud and when the scions break bud. At these times the wood is most succeptible to fungus. I buy 'Consan 20' from a local garden center. If on a grander scale, 'Zerotol' fungicide/algaecide is safer.
Keep those understocks on until fall and be sure they are in dappled light/shade cloth or more shade then sun. Continue this way for two years. You now have a graft that can withstand hotter sun.
Lastly, as the understocks accumulate masses of leaves or needles, keep them trimmed (not all the way now) so that the scion can receive as much light as possible. This is most important when the scion begins to grow.
Summer Deciduous grafting for Maples and Ginkgo 1000 times easier...
Dax - I appreciate your knowledge.
Today I am setting up my greenhouse, I plan to graft on a larger scale.
Keep you posted.
I meant to ask...LIGHTING????
I have these grafts in a sunlit window. Is that OK?
The more light the better.
Plants have internal clocks so whatever the light cycle amount is currently, that's how much light they need by artificial means or else)))
Will 'Fung-Onil' Fungicide suffice for the root stocks and scions. I happen to have this already.
Oil based horticultural products (that sounds like what you may have there) cannot ever be used on glaucous (blue) conifers. What you need is a combination (it's how it's sold), fungaecide/algaecide. I also use this stuff when soil media grows moss or if mold occurs.
Have rubbed powdered cinnammon on graft wounds for a fungicide, seemed to work fine.