Evergreen Cascading shrub or plant to hide retaining wall

Discussion in 'Outdoor Gardening in the Pacific Northwest' started by Laura Ralph, Dec 22, 2011.

  1. Laura Ralph

    Laura Ralph Active Member 10 Years

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    Hello All,

    I am trying to find the perfect plant to cascade down and hide a retaining wall that is about 3' high. I've been considering weeping yew, Weeping Yew, Taxus baccata repandens...I'm not really interested in anything overly aggressive like cotoneaster. Also, I don't like how winter jasmine tip roots and often looks scraggly. Does anyone have experience using Loniceras in this type of situation. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Laura Ralph
    Alive and Well Organic Gardening
    www.aliveandwellorganic.ca
     
  2. Ron B

    Ron B Paragon of Plants 10 Years

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    If you think those others are too much the yew is going to be way too much. It's not a dwarf, nor is it particularly weeping or trailing. One I measured in Bellingham during 1995 I figured to be 25' tall. Another, in Anacortes, was determined to have an average crown spread of 37' the same year. And yes, these really did look to be 'Repandens', with the characteristic appearance - rather like that of a Pfitzer juniper. Both of the yews were in public parks, and were probably planted quite some time ago.

    There are rather petite, rock garden type Cotoneaster on the market. You may be eliminating one or two viable options by waving them all off based on a concept of one or a few kinds.
     
  3. Laura Ralph

    Laura Ralph Active Member 10 Years

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    Thanks Ron,

    Yes, I guess I shouldn't write off all cotoneasters. I would just want to make sure that it was relatively easy to keep in bounds/remove. I have spent way too much time removing cotoneaster dameri after it has taken over people's gardens. Also, the prolific self-sowing of a lot of cotoneasters makes me wary. Are there any in particular that you would recommend?

    LR
     
  4. Barbara Lloyd

    Barbara Lloyd Well-Known Member

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    Laura,
    I sort of agree with your opinion on cotoneasters. The idiot that planted the 4' rockery bi-secting my front yard put it in as well as Snowberry. I have been pulling it out for years. I have planted several other things that stay put. Just Please! Please! Please! don't plant ivy!!!

    The folowing are all woody plants
    The low growing ceanothus
    Wiltoni Juniper - blue rug
    Lithadora - Grace ward (similar to above) This does need triming after winter it tends to turn black in spots - as Ron will agree.

    These are more just hanging foliage and flowers.
    Veronica pedunculus - creeping speed well
    Saponeria ocymoides - soapwart
    Aubrieta - rock cress
    Even nasturtiums, tho annuals, will reseed to a degree and hang down.

    There is also a way to paint moss on the wall. Something about moss and milk (?) in a blender Then spread the goo on the lower part of the wall to help hide it. Maybe someone else can remember the true formula.

    My Favorite is Virginia creeper, it will cascade down the whole wall. Stays put in my experience
    except for having to trim the bottom edge and has great fall color.

    Sounds lile a positive problem and a fun experiment.....barb
     
  5. Lysichiton

    Lysichiton Active Member

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    "There is also a way to paint moss on the wall.." Yep - you're talking my language now! Get an OLD blender or small coffee grinder - not the one your significant whatsit uses for making smoothies - bin there, done that, got the scars. Pick moss with some dirt & "roots" attached. Blend with yoghurt, sour cream or milk. Add water to make a slurry (sludgy mess). I have added an egg to a large batch at times. I use my hands to spread this on the surfaces to be mossed (BTW this makes a great hand cleaner as well). Spring & early fall are best when it is moist but not subject to our torrential PNW rains that wash the surfaces clean.

    My rationale for this is that the milk product or egg helps adhere fragments of moss to the substrate & provide some nitrogenous fertilizer as well.

    The most important factors are the aspect & exposure of the surface & whether it is concrete or rock. New concrete is alkaline & limits severely the number os species that will grow. Look around your neighbourhood for similar substrates & conditions from which to get the seeder moss. If you wanna get fussy, look at Japanese garden books some of which tell about moss at length.

    Have a bryophytic Xmas & a haploid New Year!
     

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