I have a beatiful finely-divided redleaf weeping japanese maple in a semi-shade spot. It has deep maroon foliage most of the year, red twigs, and brighter red leaves in fall. [I lost the tag, so don't know the specific maple, but I don't think it gave much info anyway.] It was originally planted next to a nice mossy flat rock, on which a dull-blue-green buddha sits, with some bronze contrast plants here & there, and a large harts-tongue fern behind the Buddha. The problem is this: the maple is so happy that it has covered everything around it with its foliage, which now drapes over the ground about 2' - 3'. I could just move everything, except the rock [can't get even tiny machinery in there due to underground waterlines belonging to the city, and very soft soil]. Or, could I risk pruning the ground-level foliage? and is it possible to encourage the tree to get a little taller? Was thinking of trying a bonsai technique to train the top branches a little higher. I am told that wrapping and bending can only be done when the tree is "very dry," which here would be in late summer, not now! Anyway, I need information input! This is a dearly beloved tree, and symbolic to myself and partner. I do not want to take a chance on killing this 10-year-old! Any advice?
Like all weeping trees more impressive with branches cascading to ground, also looks more stable than if floating on a bare leg. To get more height faster than otherwise select a leader to continue the main stem upward and train it up a secure stake. Insert it carefully as near the main stem as possible, choosing a still bendable side branch near the center to become the new leading stem. Using this method you can train the tree to be as tall as the stake is after it has been inserted. You may have to dig carefully around the crown of the tree for awhile to find an opening where the stake can be driven in without barking the trunk or main roots of the tree. You will also, of course want to avoid driving it through one of the pipes.
At first I thought you planted them to deep, and wanted to "elevate" the trees by transplanting or replanting. Raising the canopy off the ground is sort of a proportional thing. Small trees can only be raised like inches to maybe a foot and still look reasonable. Bigger ones can be raised several feet sometimes. By lightly thinning the bulk throughout, some filtered light can be gained beneath too. Japanese maples are one of my favorites, although the neglected ones can be rather dusty or grubby to work beneath. Here's a set of images I keep on hand for this fun topic. The ladder is 10 feet tall. Maybe yours will be up there someday. A before, an after, a closeup. There are about 5 more outside the image. Had seen no pruning for probably 10 years prior.
Wow MD, those are some amazing pics! Any other "rules of thumb" to create that look much appreciated -especially in terms of training my young weeping maples over time to have that open structure - is it just a question of removing/thinning internal branches?
How gorgeous! Apparently this job was done during the dormant season, may I ask you about when is the best time to perform this work?
Ron B. and M.D. Valden, thank you both for the helpful information. I think I'll follow all the advice given, but first, two questions. Ron - can I safely prune back some of the twigs which are actually lying on the ground (wouldn't dream of uncovering its "bare leg") and insert the stake, when it goes leafless? Seems like it would be easier to see, but is it safe? And M.D., I have the same question as poster 01876 - safe to try it now?
Sure, in moderation with sharp tools. If there were leaves, 25% removal of foliage maximum would be a good rule of thumb. Sometimes 10% removed works fine. If leaves fall, just pretend the twigs had leaves. That would not mean to raise it 25%, for example. But including all the little parts that are removed from beneath, the edges and in-between. Space permitting, I tend to work underneath first, thinning from the inside and underside, then standing outside the canopy and doing a bit more. In other words, letting it build up on itself. Some people focus on trimming the outside to "shape" them, but that's not the approach I prefer. One expert, Dr. Shigo, wrote once that a perfect time of year for general pruning would be right after leaves fall and right after they emerge in spring. But within 2 pages he wrote that pruning can be done any time of year. Consider that there must be a perfect time for anything. Say washing a car. What is the "perfect" temperature for washing paint? Must be one. But most people wash at many temperatures, avoiding maybe dousing cold water on hot paint or windshields. With the maples, I've been pruning them every month of the year, for light to moderate pruning. Sometimes there is dripping in spring. The dripping bothers some people, and the feel it's like bleeding, even though the same thing is happening with water. The sap or water is still flowing from point A to point B. Seems that many homeowners pruning may fare better to prune after the leaves drop, because they can see the branches they have to work with much better. Including the underside not being shaded.
Very good and thorough advice from MD there I prefer to prune when the leaves have fallen simply because at that stage I can get a better view of what I am trying to achieve
An Acer growing more one side than the other, do we prune to match the other side? Or do we leave it to maybe (some hopes) catch up lol Why do Acers do this?
Katalina - Mine does it because the prevailing wind comes from the west. But it's pretty, makes it look like a big bonsai.
lololololol A big Bonsai..ahhaah you made my day 2ann. This does'nt look like any Bonsai I ever saw. Looks even worse with no leaves on it.
One of the things I love about Japanese maples is the pruning and shaping. They seem to need it because the dissectums especially can get really dense/jungle-like, and there seems to be a lot of dead that needs cut out (at least in my neck of the woods). Then when you get in there, it is like sculpting or improving the look by exposing the trunk or emphasizing an elongated, twisted branch, etc. I agree the best time is after the leaves fall, you have to be able to see what you're doing and the point of pruning for esthetics is to see the branching in the winter. I also like to do it when we get a relatively warm day in January, just because I have "cabin fever" at that time of the year. As far as cutting where the branches hang down, that shouldn't be a problem at all. You will probably be surprised at how good you maple will look when you finish. Kay
