I purchased a Dwarf Navel Orange tree that I am planning on growing in a pot on my south facing patio in Scottsdale, AZ. The tree is currently in the 15-gallon plastic container that I purchased it in. The stem is a good 1-1/4 thick and the tree 36 tall measured from the soil and 30 wide. The tag that came with the tree says Rootstock: C-35 CFA #1003041 C&M Nursery Nipoma, CA. I would have to make the guess that the nursery I purchase the tree from here in AZ has transplanted the tree into the larger container because the soil in the container appears to be native AZ soil, which to say is very hard even inserting the moisture / ph meter takes some effort. Is there a way to determine the actual rootstock? When is the best possible time of year to transplant the tree to a larger container to minimize shock to the tree given that I live in AZ? When I do transplant the tree should I knock away any measure of the existing less-than-ideal soil and/or trim the roots? I am planning on using Miracle-Gro Cactus, Palm and Citrus Soil since I have no place or resource to mix my own soil (and I am planning on 24 container). Some of the roots are currently visible where the stem enters the soil (probably the soil settled?) should I cover them or re-plant exactly as is? I really hope I can revitalize the tree and groom it to a pleasing shape since its obvious that the nursery has let this tree go wild for quite some time Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Congratulation on your orange tree, however, Navel Orange is not the best variety for the dry heat of Scottsdale AZ. In Arizona and in the Desert areas of California the climatic conditions are too sever for Navel Oranges, due to the hot dry contions which causes excessive fruit drip ("June drop"). To answer your questions: 1. The rootstock is C-35 Citrange. C-35 was deleloped by the University of California in 1986. C-35 is a hybrid cross of Ruby Blood Orange and Poncirus Trifoliata. This rootstock preforms poorly in soils with a high pH, poorly in clay soil and drought conditions. However, it is tolerant to nematodes, root and foot rot and tristeza virus. 2. In Scottsdale now would be a good time to transplant a citrus tree. 3. You can either CAREFULLY remove a couple inches of soil around the outside of the tree, or you can use a sharp knife and cut a couple inches off around the outside of the rootball. If you cut a couple inches put the tree back into the same container, and balance the foliage to match the root loss. I would recomend removing the dirt by using a water spray from the hose. 4-A correctly planted citrus tree should have a little of the top roots showing slightly above the soil surface. No need to cover the roots. 5-You can prune the tree to the shap that you desire, but know that any pruning will delay fruit production. A citrus when left alone will grow to a harmonious round shape (Globe). The NUMBER ONE KILLER of containerized citrus trees is over watering. Citrus need a fast draining soil that contains a high oxygen content. Millet
I am surprised to hear that - I have a friend that has a tree in his backyard and that tree produces the absolute best tasting Navel Oranges I have ever eaten, which is what inspired me to give this a go. I was even tempted to start a tree from a clipping from his tree but fear that I would not see fruit for many years. On a side note, could I graft a branch from his tree onto my rootstock? Put the tree back into the same container? For how long? How do I balance the foliage to match root loss? If I remove dirt with a water spray do I still need to balance the foliage? Sorry if these questions seem rudimentary... Obviously, whomever cared, or rather neglected this tree previously, has put a severe crimp on what should be a harmonious round shape... Thank you for all your help - it's a great message board!
There are many different but similar types of Navel Oranges. Your Navel Orange tree will grow well in Arizona,and can become a healthy tree if given the proper care. The problem with Navels, especially Washington Navels, in hot dry locations, and especially combined with wind, is a problem termed "June Drop." Navels oranges drop a lot of their fruit due to this stress. As a door yard tree, your tree could give you fruit enough for a family, but Navel Oranges would not make a profitable commerical tree in your area. Navel Oranges do well along the cooler California coast. Know that if you plant the tree in a container, you will need to either re-pot or transplant into larger containers every year or two. If you re-pot you cut the roots back and keep the tree in the same container, or you can transplant into larger containers. A citrus tree is a balanced unit between the foliage and the roots. When you cut the roots back a corresponding reduction should be made to the foliage. If you just remove some medum and leave the root growth alone, then return the tree to the same container, the tree will soon become root bound. When a tree is to be grown as a container tree, the root stock of choice is normally Flying Dragon, which is a dwarfing rootstock. - Millet
Thank you for all your help Mr. Millet. Funny thing those guys that sold me my tree said that C-35 rootstock was dwarf rootstock :-| I wont be shopping there anymore. I also found a website here in AZ that you might find interesting: http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm - they seem to specialize in citrus in AZ; I wish I had found them earlier as I would probably have a better looking tree :-) but as I check prices I see that at least I got an awesome deal on my tree, but it will be fun revitalizing and shaping my tree, it's actually starting to look better already in the short month-and-a-half that I've had it. I trimmed off all the dead twigs and such and a few crosswize branches and it seems to be responding well. Thanks again.
Rootstocks such as “C-35" have demonstrated good adaptability to soils and provide reasonable resistance to fungal rots in combination with good productivity. Sour orange rootstocks should be avoided due to their susceptibility to the tristeza virus and quick decline disease. The “Flying Dragon” rootstock is used as a dwarfing rootstock and the resulting tree is often used in patio plantings such as you desire for your tree. Rootstocks with lemon heritage, like Rough Lemon, Schwab Rough Lemon, or Volkameriana, produce fruit that tends to have lower sugar content and less acid producing a bland taste. These rootstocks will produce a tree that grows quickly but the quality of the fruit usually suffers. - Millet
Pruning of citrus trees is rarely done nor needed, except to remove dead wood. Generally, when pruning a young citrus tree the choice of branches to eliminate is based on the concept that any space within the canopy must be covered by only one branch. It is not convenient to let surplus branches occupy the same aerial space. Anyway, thinning must not deplete any canopy sector. Suckers should ONLY be kept if they occupy free spaces. After a few years they bear fruit, but all interior suckers must be cut. A harmonious citrus tree grows to an almost round shape. Vegetation free canopy spaces must be avoided since they reduce fruit yield. Unpruned trees come into bearing quickly and yield crops for many years. - Millet
My next trick will be learning if the multitude of branches growing directly out of what appears to be the graft, are in fact desirable wood, or suckers?
Determining which branches on your tree are actually suckers from the rootstock, and which branches are from the scion Navel Orange will be easy. Navel orange produces single (simple) leaf blades, C-35 rootstock produces tri-foliate leaves (sort of like a 3 leaf clover design). - Millet
Thank you! All of my leaves are simple single leaf blades, so I guess I am safe! I wish I could say for sure but I even think some of the flowers are turning into oranges... dark green glossy rather plump little things...
