Dwarf Meyer Lemon tree appears to be dying

Discussion in 'Citrus' started by LemonImportant, Aug 2, 2007.

  1. LemonImportant

    LemonImportant Member

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    Location:
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    Look out. Here comes a newbie to the board.

    I purchased a dwarf Meyer lemon tree in May. It had all green leaves and 25 little lemons. I did the "finger test" for water. After a month I ended up with Mites and got the treatment for them. I don't remember what the store recommended.

    I sprayed the tree and fertilized the tree with a citrus fertilizer. The tree is still in the original pot it came in.

    All appeared fine for about four weeks then it seemed like the tree started dying. All the little fruits have turned black. Numerous leaves have turned yellow and are falling off.

    I've heeded comments about trying to give it too much care. It doesn't appear to be getting any better.

    I would appreciate any help you can offer. We lost a child and bought this tree as a symbol of life and growing it is very important to us. We don't want to lose it. I would appreciate any help that anyone can offer to help turn this tree around.

    Thanks.
     
  2. LemonImportant

    LemonImportant Member

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    I think I am learning that I may have over watered my tree. How can I recover from that? Thanks.
     
  3. LemonImportant

    LemonImportant Member

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    I know that pictures are important. Here are some pictures I took this afternoon. I noticed a couple of them appear fuzzy. I think you can get the idea of the problem. Let me know if more pictures will help you help me.

    Thanks.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. skeeterbug

    skeeterbug Active Member

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    If you have been overwatering the main thing you can do to fix the problem is to stop overwatering. Make sure the soil is dry 2-3 inches deep before watering. Depending on climate and growth rate that can be as long as a month during winter.

    If you repot into CHC using the recipe posted by Millet, you almost cannot overwater.

    Skeet
     
  5. LemonImportant

    LemonImportant Member

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    Thanks skeeterbug. I have stopped watering and stopped everything waiting for a reply on how I should proceed. I have read most of the threads here and remember Millet recipe. I also remember comments about the most common cause for containerized plants dying is overwatering.

    I will wait for a diagnosis and go from there.

    Thanks again for the reply. I don't want to lose this tree. It is very important to me. I know too much emotion about my tree but I have to try and save it.
     
  6. LemonImportant

    LemonImportant Member

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    I haven't gotten a response after I posted my pictures. I read that normally you can get an answer on Wednesdays and Thursdays. I'm I doing something wrong to not get a response?

    Any help would be appreciated. I am new to the board and I apologize if I am doing something out of proticol.

    Thanks.

    Rick...
     
  7. BabyBlue11371

    BabyBlue11371 Active Member

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    as the weather is so hot you may not see improvement as quickly as you would like.. just be patient.. I would remove any black fruit.. aside from that there is not much I'd do.. If you have any twig die back trim to just above where it is green.. do NOT give it fertilizer again until you see new growth..
    I use a wooden BBQ skewer to check the moisture of the soil.. stick the skewer in the soil.. leave for hr or so.. pull the skewer out.. if it is moist then you do not need to water.. if it is on the dryer side you can water.. this will take a bit to get use to.. but once you get the hang of it it works better than finger test as the skewer can be put further in the soil..
    Have you noticed any twig die back??
    don't give up on it!!! I think this thread might be good for you to read.... http://www.botanicalgarden.ubc.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=15602

    best wishes to you and your tree!!!

    Gina *BabyBlue*
     
  8. Millet

    Millet Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    Location:
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    I notice your tree is setting on a ledge or bench of some sort in front of a window. What is the directional exposure of the window? In other words is this a southern window? Is this tree inside the house or outside? Does the sun shine directly on the tree and if so for how many hours a day? Do you have a soil thermometer, or do you know the temperature of the growth medium inside the black container during the day? How often have you fertilized the tree sense you received it in May, and what was the formula of the fertilizer? Why do you think the tree has been over watered? - Millet
     
  9. LemonImportant

    LemonImportant Member

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    Millet, thanks for your response. I know that you can help me with my tree.

    The tree is setting outside on a ledge by my kitchen window. It is a southern exposure and outside the house. The sun shine directly on it most of the day. I don't have a soil themometer at this time. I can get one but I don't know what conditions I should be looking for.

    I have fertilized the tree twice since I got in in May using the recommendation of the people at Home Depot.

    I thought the tree was overwatered just by your comments in other posts and other people's comments about that being a common problem.

    I followed other people's advice and removed the black fruit. I have also paid more attention to the watering but I'm a rookie and I don't know what I'm doing right or wrong to take care of the tree.

    I appreciate any help or advice you can offer.

    Thanks.

    Rick...
     
  10. Millet

    Millet Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    If your tree is setting in the direct sun the "soil" temperature inside the black container can be reaching temperature of 135F (56C). At temperatures above 115- 120 root damage or death can occur. A common practice among many container growers is to paint one side of black containers white to reflect the sun light away, thus reducing the temperature of the growth medium. Then in the winter the other side of the container (black side) is turned towards the sun to help heat the soil. Container growth media is different from field soil. Organic matter typically has good absorption and retention of micronutrient elements (iron, manganese, copper, boron, zinc and molybdenum) and calcium, magnesium, phosphorus and sulfur. Nitrogen absorption and retention in the container is poor and potassium only fair. Both nitrogen and potassium are water soluble and are quickly leached from the root zone with every watering. Citrus trees utilize more nitrogen than any other element, therefore nitrogen MUST be frequently applied in small amounts when watering, or by using slow release fertilizers such as Osmocote. Infrequent application of fertilizers simply do not work. When all factors are considered, it is more economical, and plant growth and health is better with slow release fertilizers compared to liquid fertilizers. The symptoms of nitrogen deficiency is either totally yellow leaves, or yellow-orange leaf veins with some green on the sides. I believe your tree is suffering from the root zone being constantly over heated, and for sure from a deficiency of nutrition. When you fertilizer a containerized tree infrequently, the required nutrition for the tree is feast and then famine. What would your health be if you only eat a meal every time you fertilized your tree? Try to locate a regular water soluble fertilizer with a nutrient ratio as close to a 5-1-3 ratio (not formula) that also contains trace elements or use a slow release Osmocote fertilizer plus trace elements. Also feed the tree one teaspoon of Epson Salts (magnesium) in a gallon of water once every two months, if the fertilizer you are using does not supply magnesium. Fertilize the tree at least once every two weeks WITH OUT FAIL. Good luck to this tree. Take care. - Millet
     
  11. LemonImportant

    LemonImportant Member

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    Thank you for your guidance. I am hoping to report good news with the tree in the next few months by following your suggestions.

    Thanks.

    Rick...
     
  12. Millet

    Millet Well-Known Member 10 Years

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    Feel free to report back if any other concerns appear. Remember the number one killer of containerized citrus is over watering. When you water the tree, water it well, until 10 percent of the irrigation water applied drains out the bottom. Then do not water again until the top couple inches feel father dry to your finger. When you test the top 2-3 inches of soil to see if the tree need watering, and you are not sure if you should water or not, then DO NOT WATER for a day or so. Another very good method of when to water is by lifting or tilting the container. In a very short time you will become familiar with the heaviness of the container when it is wet and when it need watering. - Millet
     

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