evelyn galbraith wrote: > I am not sure where to ask my questions; however, I have three huge questions: > 1) I have a half acre of straight clay and quack grass (there may be some > tame grass plants). Dogs have been in this yard for years. It is > almost thread bare. Also there is a very ugly fence around it that I > would like to cover up with a creeping vine of some kind. What do you > recommend? > 2) I would like to plant a wild grass lawn. I have looked at lawns in my > (Quesnel BC) area, I neighbour have beautiful lawns and some have quack grass lawns. I am willing to use Round-up, and I learn that it should be used three times in the growing season to get the nasty roots etc. 3) Now to a straight clay vegetable garden area--never been used. Some big dormant weeds. Watch for neighbour advice below -------------------------- Back to the three points: #1) What do you recommend for a vine to go around the perimeter of the fence. Someting that is fast growing and hardy. Soil is clay, though I will probably working to change that. What do you think? > > And > #2) What seed should I buy for a native grass lawn? Can I buy and plant Wild flowers at the same time? In the same seeder? #3) This clay garden spot (I mentioned above has never grown anything, but WEED)s. I have access to a naturpathic Doctor in town who grows nice gardens. He says that my garden soil needs: lime, turf builder and GREEN SAND--which is not "Foundry green sand", but one which is well known to be a sand that is so full of minerals etc that it has the property to eliminate clay when used with lime. It is apparently able to break down clay to soil. Anyone here heard of this sand? Where is it sold? There are--above here--3 descriptions and 3 + questions. Above all realize that I am living in Interior BC--> Quesnel, BC > > Yours, Ev
Answering #2 first....go to http://www.bluestem.ca/ for your ornamental & turf grass needs. #1.....There are a number of vines that will work for you. Wild grape, virginia creeper, perennial Hops, clematis, honeysuckle, and hardy kiwi to name a few. None, except the clematis really need soil amending even in clay. #3.....Clay is not all bad and will be sufficient for your grasses and vines. If you want a perennial/annual bed or vegetable garden, integration of gritty sand and organic matter will help. Also, never work/dig clay when it's wet, it just makes it worse and is the primary reason clay soil is undesirable. Once good soil structure is acheived in clay, it's an ok soil but compacting it when wet can erase years of work. Best time to work/dig clay is when it's either dry or just moist which allows the clumps to be broken up. Go to Gardenwise BC and complete a soil pH test before you add lime or turfbuilder. Simon
evelyn galbraith wrote: I would like to plant a wild grass lawn. I have looked at lawns in my > (Quesnel BC) area, The neighbours have beautiful lawns and some have quack grass lawns. This, in a small hamlet or bedroom community--so nothing fancy--nowhere. Number 1: A) Given that I want to "plant" a "native grass" lawn with wild flowers. How would one prepare a soil that is clay? AND B) What seed should I buy for a native grass lawn? I want one that is short enough that I never have to mow--just let it run wild. C) Also, can I buy and plant Wild flowers at the same time? In the same seeder? Or just what? Number 2) This is to do with garden spot--so a different question with similar features. My clay garden spot has never grown anything, but WEED)s. I have access to a naturpathic Doctor in town who grows nice gardens. He says that my garden soil needs: lime, turf builder and GREEN SAND--which is not "Foundry green sand", but one which is well known to be a sand that is so full of minerals etc that it has the property to eliminate clay when used with lime. It is then apparently able to break down clay to soil. Anyone here heard of this sand? Where is it sold? Has anyone around here ever hear of such green sand? Does anyone here have better advice, because this neighbour says that green sand is easy to get in the US of A. That it is a better sand. What do you think? > > Yours, Ev
Bluestem are still the people for your grass.....http://www.bluestem.ca/enviroturf.htm Go to http://www.canadiangardening.ca/catalogues/ to find a source for native wildflower seed mixes. You can seed grass and wildflowers at the same time if you choose. If you are intent on "green sand" go for it....but for what you want to do with your yard, it's not needed. The only way to eliminate clay is to remove it, you want to amend it. ANY gritty sand and organic matter will improve soil structure and are highly recommended by gardeners. http://home.clara.net/tmac/urgring/faqsoil1.htm Some areas can use gypsum to break up the clay but only specific types of clay, those high in sodium, low in calcium (I can't speak for your area). Simon
Have added a cup or so of Greensand to soil when planting 1 or 2 gal. potted shrubs. About a 1/2 cup to a 2-3 gal. pot when potting up shrubs with potting mix. Same amount of bonemeal added to shrubs which may not like transplanting. Fairly expensive here though, when purchasing at retail garden outlets. Bought from Cannors whose source was on Vancouver Island , if memory serves me right. Sorry, not much experience.
Thank you so very much to chimera and Simon. I am sold on bluestem so it was a very nice "tip". This house and yard are new to me--so I am putting linoleum down in the house, and waiting for nice weather so I can work outside. In other words, I am swamped. However, I am not in a rush. Ev
Recover a Lawn without tilling Hi, Where do I ask a question about clay etc lawns Ev I am planting a native lawn=8B1/4 acre area of bunch grass, quack grass, barren spots in a bed of Clay. Specifically if I need to understand if I could use pulp paper to cover the lawn. This paper is thicker than cardboard box much thicker. I also have access to as much rotted saw dust I need. My question: 1. Could I use =white=(bleached) pulp paper=It comes in meter squares=then I wondered if I use sawdust as a mulch on top of the pulp paper. This is what I seem to think after much reading. Then do I seed on top of that with bluestem turf? I want a wild grasses lawn. Anyway, I just want someone to take me by the ear while telling me what to do! Brian Minter says that clay, sand and lime would make a nice cement. And that was exactly what I was going to do--I read further and keep reading about covering the whole 1/4 acre. I am sort of hoping that covering the area with the pulp paper above would work--as in--killing the old lawn, the weeds etc, while it gives organics back into the soil. Maybe black plastic would be way better. Help Yours, Evelyn
Re: Recover a Lawn without tilling I've had good success on clay soils by aerating (something like an "aerway" tool) followed by spreading sand to about 2 to 3 inch depth. You seed into the sand. Your 1/4 acre will take about 7 loads of sand (~90 yards) and a good backhoe operator should have that spread in about 3 hours. If you can get a tracked machine, so much the better for reduced compaction. Seed selection is important; you want something that will root agressively. I put in a small percentage of clovers as well as the grass. It takes a lot of water to get established, so I would do this one in the early fall. Ralph
My neglected lawn My neglected lawn that is clay and gravel My advice was that I need to lay down sand and plant in it. I have also been told that I could use "Round up" in the preparation of killing old nasty lawn that is in growth stage and 2 times more as quack grass grows. I have been advised that sand and clay make cement. I have been advised to use layers of newspaper i have been advised to use a bark mulch over the whole lawn i have been advised to put down black plastic; what is this for and does it turn into organics or do I have to leave it down--how long? I have access to rotted saw dust, and have been told that that is a good mulch. And now I dont' know what to do for a 1/4 acre of area--who could put enough news paper over lawn, but I do have some access of "pulp paper" bleached--same problem. Is the idea that I am to cover the ground with these organics and thereby get away from clay state and even old quack grass etc I would really like for someone to give me all the advise in one area Tell me and I will do it. the update here is that I am clearing the old grass and patches of ground so that I can plant "native grass" and wild flowers etc. Yours Ev
(merged all related threads into one - better to let people read how things have progressed to date instead of posting new threads after having received some replies, in case information gets dropped or lost)
OK OK, I have been planting virgina creeper around ugly fence--as a result of your advice. Thank you I am going to find a way to level the ground (dog tunnels prevail) and then I am putting down course sand--a result of your advice. Thank you I am only going to work on the clay when it is cry--advice again. I am going to buy Bluestem grass mix--a result of your advice here. (Never heard of them before--thank you. I understand the more organics the better. I have rotten saw dust which I will put on before using the grass mix above--this is also a result of advice here. I have covered the potential flower beds with huge and heavy duty sand paper--I learned to cover from your advice. I will check PH on soil so I can add nitrogen if it is indicated--your advice again. I guess I have repeated my annoying situation ad nasium--but every single writer who answered my threads has enlighten {me}. I am truly illiterate about lawns, reclaiming lawns etc. So THANK YOU ALL and if you have anything more to say--I will take it in good spirit. Yours, Ev
