Has anyone had any success with chip budding maples? I understand that it can be done and provides more material to work with, particularily with hard to find cultivars. I would be interested in anyones personal experiences with this. Thanks, Bonnie
I know that Heritage Seedlings uses chip budding for at least some of their Japanese Maple production. Dale
chip budding Chip budding is when you graft a single bud to the rootstock. It apparently is supposed to be quite successful and it gives you more material to work with, rather than using a branch with three buds to graft, you can use all three buds for three different rootstocks, or you can graft the three buds in three different places on the one rootstock, giving you three times more luck at it taking. However, aside from a small bit of info on it in JD Vertrees maple book, there isnt very much information on it. Bonnie
Below is a link that shows the chip budding procedure. http://ianrpubs.unl.edu/horticulture/g1518.htm Jim
Hi Jim: Thanks for that link. I'v seen a similar method (shorter top cut at a shallower angle) referred to as bud grafting. While we are on the topic of grafting, do you know of a source of info on green micro grafting? From what I've been able to gather so far it would be done at the stage of micro propagation where you would otherwise be taking the plantlet off the (liquid or gel) growth medium and planting into a soil mix for a period of incubator growing. Properly done it seems this method would take a whole year off the process to have a field or garden ready grafted plant. The proceedure I'm referring to is actually "micro" as in you do it under a stereo dissecting microscope. Ralph
Bonnie: I think chip budding offers a way to maintaing or create a stock plant when rootstock or scion wood is at a premium. It is also possible to, or preferable to use this technique when one has a very vigorous understock to push the grafted buds, and the quality or health of the scion wood may be inquestion. One can also cut down the scion to two node increments and do a traditional graft. In any case, I would think you would want to eventually take and root a cutting or gaft a scion from your chip-budded cultivar to create a final specimen. It might also be applicable to graft buds from multiple cultivars onto the same rootstock to create a stock plant the held multipe cultivars. If you did not let any one cultivar overgrow the others,you could then cut from that stock for future plants. I would wonder if this method of propagation in maples would lead to an increased chance of mutation at the grafted bud then maybe creating a sport or effecting the characteristics of the cultivar. It is definately more labor intensive than grafting the entire scion which would likely be why it is not used more frequently--I am not sure of its overall success rate. It is very possible that you might lose more buds per graft than scions and the end success rate may be similar. In any case if you have only one or two scions, it couldn't hurt to hedge you bet if you couldn't cut down the wood you had.
chip budding and zones... thanks for the link, I am curious about one thing and Im not sure how to do the 'conversion'...if its possible to start chip budding in zone 5 in April, how would that relate to a start time in zone 8. I cant figure out when I would be able to start.
micrografting ...Do you have 'The Grafters Handbook'? The last two pages have a small bit of info on micrografting as well as a few information resources. If you dont I can try scanning it and email it to you. Bonnie
Yes please I've sent you an email thru the forum so you will have my email address, and yes please on those pages and references. Thanks, Ralph
chip budding ...in response to mjh1676... just so I get my information straight, do you mean that chip budding doesnt always make a perfect final specimen, but would enable you to grow that plant on for future material for grafting? I am just curious because I had heard that before and I wondered if thats what you were referring to. Thanks, Bonnie
Below is a link that may rather helpful to someone. http://www.ipps.org/International/Index.asp?RequestPage=Online/index.asp We did a lot of chip budding on Magnolias during the Summer months. Below is a link to the Magnolia Society and an article on chip budding. http://www.magnoliasociety.org/care_docs/chip_budding.html Ralph, Sometime get this book and get to know it. Mine was the 4th edition that we used as our textbook. I think the one reviewer may be right in that the book does assume some prior knowledge of other areas of Plant Science related fields. Then again, for us, ours was a textbook for an upper division class. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...3/103-9983387-4593429?_encoding=UTF8&v=glance http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...1/103-9983387-4593429?_encoding=UTF8&v=glance I have not looked at the Dirr book yet. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...f=sr_1_5/103-9934073-8600643?v=glance&s=books Jim Sorry that not all of the links still work from the IPPS site. There are some rather valuable links that are working from that site however. Hi Ralph: Yes, I've heard of green grafting. I think so far in Biotechnology we have an idea of what we want to accomplish but what we are not asking is, at what expense? What problems can occur down the road and with tissue cultured Maples I want to see 20 and 30 year old specimens before I can tell someone that tissue culture is a viable alternative to grafting or cutting growing our Maples. For the short term, tissue culture makes a lot of sense and the Biotechnological view of eliminating viruses is a good thing but are the plants more susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases once they are grown outdoors for any real length of time? Certain plants have done well with tissue culture but from a nurseryman's standpoint I am not seeing a lot of one gallon plants become 15 gallon sized any faster than a grafted Maple will and in landscape settings I am not seeing Maples that have lived a very long life yet in comparison to a conventionally propagated Maple. I am not advocating you to go out and buy the books I referenced or purchase them from that particular source. Sometimes when we cite a name of the book, others may want to know how to get a copy, where to buy one and how much will it cost.
Bonnie- You interpreted what I said correctly. I have not done chip budding myself or knowingly seen maples propagated in this fashion, but I would be concerned to see you proceed with the notion that it would be more successful than grafting or rooting. What I have gathered is that to push bud growth in maples the understock you would have to use for a high yield would be a "pusher" type seedling. It would be large and vigorous. I have sent very small sicons to collectors who use this type of stock to guarantee a higher success rate with the questionable wood. When you have to use shuch a large stock, the resulting budded maple will be greatly mismatched. I assumed that to look at this union, would not be visually appealing for many years if it was to catch up. I was also assuming that the extended incision need to remove and graft a bud would be more complex than a vertical cut to graft a scion, thereby greater chance for improper healing, infection and bud failure. MJH
Tissue culture: initial review & off-topic thoughts We have done some chip budding on Maples in the past, usually during late Spring (Western Garden Book zone 8 designation) but we had our best results in early to mid Summer and just left the budded Maples right in a saran house with 50% shade. Ralph: I have a slanted view towards tissue culture Maples. I have met one of the more influential nurseries involved in tissue culture Maples at a nursery trade show back in the mid 80's and to take nothing away from their successes we felt that we needed to see long term results for tissue culture to make its mark in Maples. Our nursery received the original 6 varieties that were the first tissue culture Maples offered for sale. The varieties were Beni schichihenge, Beni kawa, Burgundy Lace, Crimson Queen, Ever Red and Red Trompenburg. The plants came to us in 4" pots to which we immediately popped them into one gallon containers and for the first year we grew them in the greenhouse. When we placed them in a saran house they started to falter the next season. We felt they had become susceptible to fungal diseases to which we could control that somewhat but we also learned those Maples did not like overhead water at all from sprinklers. About every 3 months we would examine the roots as we felt the root systems would make or break these plants for the short term. It took us a while to learn what we needed to do for them so they would produce a root system and all the while the plants just sat there in the can with little to no new growth. It took 3 years for these Maples to show any real growth and that did not happen until we had root development. By the 5th year they were small one gallon sized plants by our standards. There were losses in those first 5 years, roughly 1/3 of them died in the first two years for us. We concluded early on that although the process of producing these plants was novel that the practical application of these plants to survive in landscapes was almost nill until these plants developed a root system. We also saw the same kind of thing with the early Agapanthus, Raphiolepsis and Crape Myrtles that were tissue culture grown as well. For green grafting in Agriculture we have had marginal success in Fruit and Nut Trees. No real breakthroughs in Grapes and Citrus as of yet although there is a supposed protocol for Citrus understock. I think for ornamental shrubs and fleshy fruits such as Guavas (Pineapple, Lemon, Strawberry), Papayas and various dwarf Bananas that green grafting may have its better application. Yes, the grafting under a microscope can save us time but our major limitation will at first be to produce a root system just like the same problems we had in genetic engineering in non-edible plants almost 25 years ago. At least with the first engineered plants we incorporated into the plants a disease resistance mechanism of which today the trend is to keep viruses in check but we have plants that are more susceptible to fungal diseases more so than bacterial diseases at this point in time. Viruses is not our main concern in Japanese Maples as without a virus we have no variegation in our variegated forms. If you want a project to work on try to isolate and identify the virus, virtually the same virus that causes variegation in the flowers and in the leaves of Camellias also. We slit our own throats trying to eliminate viruses from a biotech point of view at least to those two plants and there are more of them as I can include variegated Conifers in the proverbial mix as well. http://www.practicalwinery.com/mayjune99/rapidpropagation.htm Jim
Hi Bonnie, I have chip budded A. pseudoplatanus varieties in late July and August NW CA. With various degrees of success from year to year I gave up on this method to doing a more traditional winter side veneer grafting of this species, which gives me about a 85% take. I have tried it with other species but the amount of wood used in a chip bud is so small that it often will dry out or simply not take (it is also very cubersome on JM) . With larger rootstock on species such as A. psplt. it is a bit easier. The only reason I continue to use chip budding is so when I have so little scion available it will go a bit further. good luck, robert
hello bonnie I have t budded maples and it works fine.Ibudded a crimsom king maple on a noway maple. One side of the tree is red and the other green