Identification: Bonsai Identification

Discussion in 'Indoor and Greenhouse Plants' started by Mel markou, Nov 8, 2018.

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  1. Mel markou

    Mel markou New Member

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    E7894DCB-9FC2-4381-AB1E-AC53407E13BA.jpeg 429B1557-90C2-4596-9FF0-154DEBA17229.jpeg C2EFE150-269A-4101-901B-812B4AFEF4DC.jpeg 35D414E2-00FD-42B3-B3FD-23B3DF6B2D70.jpeg 65BBEB0F-8A7F-4917-B729-6343A32BB0AE.jpeg Hi, I’m very new to the world of Bonsai and I recently received a gift but it didn’t say what species it was on the label. If anyone could help me identify it that would be much appreciated.I have it in my room by the window facing south, I’ve slightly scratched the trunk and it’s green but there has been a few leaves falling off and a few yellow leaves appearing. After lots of research and reading I’m trying to get the watering correct, I’ve also brought some fertiliser which I used the morning after I took this picture which was last night.Any advice on the healthiness of my bonsai would go along way. Thankyou
     
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  2. Junglekeeper

    Junglekeeper Contributor 10 Years

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    Might be Ehretia microphylla (syn. Carmona microphylla), Fukien Tea Tree.
     
  3. Mel markou

    Mel markou New Member

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    Thankyou
     
  4. Mel markou

    Mel markou New Member

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    It seems to be really loose in the pot, would it be ok to attempt to repot it this time of year? Also if I do repot it can I start to prune back some branches I don’t need or should I wait till it’s growth period come spring, it seems to be growing now tho
     
  5. Junglekeeper

    Junglekeeper Contributor 10 Years

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    I don't have an answer for you. These are questions for bonsai enthusiasts. I suggest you repost the questions in a new thread to increase readership. Perhaps moderator @wcutler can help us out in that regard.
     
  6. wcutler

    wcutler Esteemed Contributor Forums Moderator VCBF Cherry Scout 10 Years

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    I don't think I can do anything useful here without pulling this thread apart and rewriting the posting with the query. @Mel markou, you can do a new thread in this same Indoor and Greenhouse Plants subforum with a different title, like "Repotting and pruning advice wanted for Fukien Tea Tree bonsai". Probably the third and four photos above would be sufficient to attach.
     
  7. Michigander

    Michigander New Member

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    I concur, it looks like Fukien Tea (FT). Re-potting should only be done in a season of growth, like spring when you can see buds getting fatter. Every 3 or 4 years re-pot removing the thick roots and saving the hairy little roots. If you see roots on the surface and water just stands on the surface, that means it's root-bound and needs re-potting. For now, slip-pot it. That means putting in a bigger pot such that you don't disturb the roots but have room all the way around the rootball to pack soil to make it tight enough to stand without wiggling. Do it where you can pack the soil, water it in, add soil, water that in, let it set and firm up, and you're done. You are not a bonsai nut so use half potting soil and half orchid soil mixed together.

    FT is a nice plant and needs bright indirect light inside in the winter. An east or west window is nice. Put the plant where it will get good light and don't rotate it to give it equal light on all sides. It will drop more leaves every time you move it. The leaves on the inside/house side will get used to having less light. Don't feed it anytime the growing conditions are neutral or less, only during growing season in growing conditions. Like outdoors in summer when nightime temps are above 50° F. Outdoors, water every day, generously, feed at label strength with any water soluble fertilizer, half day of sun is enough. If you go away for the weekend, put it on the ground under a shrub in the shade.

    You want the leaves to be updated every year. Leaves will last a year, but not much longer. When you put the tree out in May, cut all the leaves off at the base of the leaf. It will look like a porcupine. New leaves will come out all at the same time and be the same size. These leaves will last longer in the house over the next winter because they will all be new enough to last that one year plus. It will look pretty good the following May. If you don't remove the leaves then, some of your leaves will be of varying age and by the end of the following winter you'll understand the process.

    The tree needs to be adjusted to indoor conditions of lousy light each autumn. In late August put the plant in a place where it gets bright light, but no direct sunlight & reduce watering. Bugs live outside. Buy a houseplant insecticide and follow directions for any plant that summers outside. Treat for a couple weeks just before you bring it inside. Four to six weeks after starting the shade conditioning, when overnight temps are dropping below 50° F, bring it in the house to its window, and enjoy.

    The two most prominent plant killers are watering wrong and buying a plant that requires conditions that you don't have. Like high sun plants in an apartment with only a north window. For watering, get a dedicated vessel that is about 1/7 to 1/5 the volume of your pot. That's 15 to 20%. Water on a schedule that's easy to remember like every 3rd, 4th or 5th day, one container full. That is calendar days. Every 3rd day is every calendar day divisible by 3. Any idiot can remember the schedule. Water the crown, 360°. The soil should be dry, but not bone dry when you water it again. If it is wet, change to a 4 day cycle. If the plant droops, it is too dry, change your cycle to avoid this. If the water just stands on the surface, that means it's too dry. Once you figure it out, it's forever.

    Depending upon your house conditions, expect to see some leaves drop. Even if it loses all its leaves by late winter, don't treat it as dead, it will begin to show some life ~March or April.
     

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