I have older (10+ years) rhodies and a couple of styrax trees growing in the two concrete planting wells of my small Vancouver townhouse complex (wells are: 5 ft x 20 ft x 6 ft deep). They've been neglected for some time, and I believe they could use some acidic compost mulch. I've heard mushroom compost is not acidic enough. A mulch of bark chips was applied a year ago. (I know that the concrete wells are not good for acid-loving plants, but that's what I have to deal with!) Can you tell me what is the best compost to use and who might supply it? Should I rake the bark mulch aside before putting the compost down? And then add some slow release acidic fertilizer? All the leaves are definitely on the yellowish side. The rhodies are blooming now, the styrax is just beginning to leaf out. Thanks!
The best starting point would be a soil test, to try and find out why they are yellowish. It could be nitrogen deficiency, for instance, and not the pH.
Thanks, Ron. I did a home test a few months ago and it showed it to to be around 7. I guess my real concern is that the plants are in concrete wells and have not had organic material (other than wood chips) added in many years. I agree that a nitrogen deficiency could be an issue. What about using something like Sea Soil as a light mulch, along with a light dose of slow release rhododendron fertilizer? Many thanks.
That is fairly high, in which case you would probably want to start working on raising the pH. Acid soil fertilizers might eventually have some effect on this. Otherwise, mulching is a good general practice and is best done with clean woody material such as arborist wood chips (without weeds and debris).
You'll probably want to lower the ph:) Try some sulfur... http://www.improve-your-garden-soil.com/use-of-sulfur-to-lower-soil-ph.html
Don't do anything drastic, it's detrimental to soil microlife. A change in pH of even on point is a huge step. Expect to be gradually increasing the acidity over a period of years.
Thanks for your replies! Last year it was mulched with arborists wood chips. I guess my concern is that there might not be much real life in the soil since it's contained in those concrete planting wells. I thought adding organic material would help, and using something on the acidic side would be best. Ron... when you say "acid soil fertilizer" do you mean what is sold as rhododendron fertilizer? Many thanks.
If you want to boost soil life, add some humic acid. In my experience it works wonders. I added it to my orchard soil last year and my earthworm/bio population exploded. http://www.blackearth.com/homeContent.asp You can buy it locally in 50 pound bags for cheap. 1 bag would be all you'd need.
Note that wood chips are known to use up nitrogen as they rot. You definitely need an acidic source of nitrogen to compensate. Ammonium sulfate is one non-organic source used by blueberry farmers.
Concern: Wood chip mulches will tie up nitrogen and cause deficiencies in plants. Evidence: Actually, many studies have demonstrated that woody mulch materials increase nutrient levels in soils and/or associated plant foliage. My hypothesis is that a zone of nitrogen deficiency exists at the mulch/soil interface, inhibiting weed seed germination while having no influence upon established plant roots below the soil surface. For this reason, it is inadvisable to use high C:N mulches in annual beds or vegetable gardens where the plants of interest do not have deep, extensive root systems http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda ...Myths_files/Myths/magazine pdfs/Woodchips.pdf
In regards to nitrogen being locked up in the decomposing chips, as long as you don't mix the mulch in with the soil you'll be ok. Some acidic fertilizer will help as well, as it sounds like the soil is nutrient deficient anyways. http://www.store.tlhort.com/p-21670-gardenpro-rhodo-and-azalea.aspx (scroll down) Get a soil test if you really want to know your soil conditions.