Backyard gardening concerns and questions.

Discussion in 'Garden Design and Plant Suggestions' started by Sandy, Jun 10, 2006.

  1. Sandy

    Sandy Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Pennsylvania - Zone 6
    I just had some trees and shrubs put in by a local nursery. Please, let me know what you think. I am concerned with the placement of the PG hydrangea on the corner of the house. I would like to cut it so as to make it a tree with folks walking under or around it. Is this doable or dumb? The arborvitae have drip hose surrounding them. How often should I water these? Do they need a lot of water? I'm not done with my yard yet but can afford only so much this year. Any suggestions? I'd like to put a climber on a trellis under the garage window between the tree peonie and the Japanese cutleaf red maple. Any suggestions? A clematis? Climbing rose? Suggestions for the raised bed (2.5'x10')?
    So far, we have planted:
    Emerald green Arborvitae, a holly, an Am. Redbud, 2 buddleia, a tree peonie, a ***. cutleaf red maple, a dwarf globe blue spruce, an Am beauty berry, a Kwanzan cherry, a PG hydrangea and a burning bush.
    We want a "garden" that looks nice, smells nice (lavender?), attracts birds and provides privacy and tranquility. I'll take any and all suggestions.
    http://community.webshots.com/album/551176935eHSPTh/1
    One concern. After everything was in and we were inspecting and admiring, we noticed evidence (holes and eaten edges) of chewing insect damage on the leaves of both the Kwanzan cherry and the Forest Pansy Redbud. I could see no aphids or beetle but that doesn't mean anything.
    PS...I still owe about $2500 on the job. They are going to bill me. Should I withhold until I am satisfied that the leaf damage is nothing to worry about?
    Reply With Quote
     
  2. Newt

    Newt Well-Known Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,274
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Maryland USA zone 7
    Hi Sandy,

    I read your post and looked at all the pics, so before I address your questions I'd like to address what I have observed in the pics. You've taken a wonderful journal of the work. I can't believe you said,
    You actually paid for all that work that needs correcting? Then you said,

    Ok, I certainly will as I can't bear the thought of all that money for work that will result in plant material that will become stressed and possibly die. These guys doing the planting and mulching are supposed to be professionals and weren't just some friends doing you a favor, right? Unbelievable!!! Your pictures are fantastic and everyone who has this type of work done should do as you have done.

    I took the liberty of reading the back of the workers' shirts since several were the same color. I think I found the website of the nursery that did your work.
    http://www.plumlinenursery.com/

    Their gardens look lovely from what I can see in the small photos on the first page of their site, so I decided to look at the photo album of their work. In this picture they didn't bury the root collar aka rootflare of the mature tree, but the evergreen they planted on the left has a mulch volcano and it appears that the interior is starting to die already.
    http://www.plumlinenursery.net/images/Job05-1_0008.JPG

    A lovely landscape at first view, but it appears that everything needs pruning to keep it in it's space. Ok if you like doing that and like the look, but I prefer planting so that the mature plants fit the space and won't need to be constantly pruned to fit the space.
    http://www.plumlinenursery.net/images/Job05-2_025_22A.JPG
    http://www.plumlinenursery.net/images/Job05-3_024_21A.JPG

    More of the same at a different house where everything needs pruning to fit into it's space. Very high maintenance type of landscape.
    http://www.plumlinenursery.net/images/job05-4_023_20A.JPG
    http://www.plumlinenursery.net/images/job05-5_018_15A.JPG
    http://www.plumlinenursery.net/images/Job05-6_017_14A.JPG
    http://www.plumlinenursery.net/images/Job05-10_009_6A.JPG
    http://www.plumlinenursery.net/images/Job05-11_008_5A.JPG

    Another job site of theirs where the rooflare of this adolescent birch is buried in mulch.
    http://www.plumlinenursery.net/images/Job05-14_017_14A.JPG
    http://www.plumlinenursery.net/images/Job05-15_017_14A.jpg

    Maybe I should do this pic by pic of your album. I'll offer solutions at the end, so don't start weeping before you finish reading all this. The good thing is they are going to send you a bill. I wouldn't pay another penny until they correct all their mistakes.

    Are they really going to put that redbud tree in that narrow a hole?
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2514114670015780464ZptQLS

    Sure looks that way! Hope they removed the burlap and ties and that it's not synthetic burlap. It would have been nice of them to put the soil that came out of the hole onto a tarp so the lawn doesn't get damaged. It also makes it easier to put the earth back in the hole.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2311253080015780464klpjXJ

    Yup, they sure did put it in that narrow hole and put a mulch volcano around the base of the tree. Wonder if they planted it too deep. One tree on it's way to tree heaven if the mistakes aren't corrected!
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2271254760015780464hOayZA

    Here's Plumline's link about Redbuds.
    http://www.mygardenguide.com/trees/Redbud.pdf
    Is that your cherry I see on the right? Looks like a very small pot for such a tall tree. Hope they loosened the root ball and dug a wide hole.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2376892530015780464nGMFlX

    Looks like another narrow hole for the cherry and maybe too deep.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2845770020015780464iwfJro

    Yup, another mulch volcano! They all are in this pic.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2929022680015780464hnNZYs

    Here's your nursery's site about young tree care. Note what it says about mulching.
    http://www.mygardenguide.com/care/Young trees.pdf

    Wow, 10 arborvitae in that short run!! These trees grow to be 8' to 10' wide and who is going to trim them when they go through that chainlink fence on your neighbor's side? You could probably eliminate half of them so they mature to just touch each other. Lots of mulch there. Is it up against the trunks? The second link is about your Arborvitae 'Emerald Green'. Do click on the links there on the left about planting and care too.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2271254760015780464hOayZA
    http://www.aboutarborvitae.com/emerald_green_arborvitae.shtml

    Your balled and burlaped (b&b) arborvitae lined up for planting.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2575978610015780464miWPRX

    From Plumline's 'Pocket Garden Guide - Planting and Care of Broad-leaved Evergreen Shrubs'. This method of planting is the same for any shrub. Lots to look at there as they also show how to tease out the roots of a rootbound potted shrub. The same should be done for most potted trees as well.
    http://www.mygardenguide.com/pdf/featured/Planting and Care of Broad-leaved Evergreen Shrubs.pdf

    Here's their tutorials. Click on the 'Shrubs' tutorial showing how to not mulch the way they did.
    http://www.mygardenguide.com/garden_tutorials.html

    They have garden guides on their site and don't follow what it says to do. Here's their Tree Care Library. Click on 'General Care' for the catagories I discuss below.
    http://www.mygardenguide.com/mgg_pdf.html

    Just look at the sketch on the first page of this guide they have for planting trees about digging a wider hole and not putting the mulch against the trunk. Just the opposite of what they did with your trees.
    http://www.mygardenguide.com/care/Newly planted trees.pdf

    They even have a guide for root collar aka rootflare disorders. These folks don't practice what they preach.
    http://www.mygardenguide.com/care/Root collar disorders.pdf

    This post is so long I'm going to have to split it. To be continued.
    Newt
     
  3. Newt

    Newt Well-Known Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,274
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Maryland USA zone 7
    Now back to your questions and your pics for some more of my advice. :) Do you know which cultivar of Japanese maple you purchased? That would tell you how tall and wide the tree will eventually get. It appears to be an upright cultivar and planted too close to the garage and fence. From the perspective in the pic it will probably be hanging over the top of the garage roof and possibly touching it. Not a good thing. To keep it from touching the fence and garage it will need to be pruned. I'd move it forward at least 5'. If the crown of this tree will mature at 20' wide it should be at least 15' from the structures. This poor tree also has a volcano of mulch. If you get me the name of the cultivar I can most likely get you the mature height and width.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2019526180015780464IPDONH

    This hole looks about right.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2148147110015780464MxQpyv

    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2942044670015780464iQHxvw

    I'm concerned too. These shrubs can grow to 10' wide or more. It appears that there is about 4' between the hydrangea and the arborvitae. VERY tight. Do you know the cultivar of the one you have so we can determine the mature size? If you want to prune it to a tree form that should be no problem, but what about the side against the building? If you keep pruning it to fit the space it will be a mass of limbs in a short time and look awful, like a basketball on a stake. Take a look here for info on the PeeGee hydrangeas. The second link is of two of them, one in a tree form and one as a shrub. I don't think yours will look good there in a couple of years.
    http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/paniculata.html
    http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/images/TwoPeeGees.jpg

    This one was in a one gallon container just 4 years before the pic was taken. I don't think yours will fit.
    http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/images/Pee Gee.jpg

    That site I gave you on Arborvitae should answer those questions. Here's one about watering newly planted trees and shrubs.
    http://www.mdvaden.com/advice-landscape.shtml#wateringsuggestions
    http://www.watersaver.org/pdfs/shrub_watering_recommendations.pdf

    Unless you see discoloration on the leaves, I wouldn't be too concerned about some chewed leaves.

    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2845770020015780464iwfJro

    Please tell me that isn't the newly planted tree peony on the left in the above pic. Most grow to about 4' wide and should be planted 2 1/2' feet from a structure. The planting site should have 4 to 6 hours of sun. Here's info on your tree peony.
    http://www.treepeony.com/treePeonyCare.html

    Most roses will need at least 6 hours of sun. There are Clematis that will take the part sun and if you choose carefully, you can get one that matures at 10' to 12'. It appears the bottom of the window is about 4' to 5' from the ground. Consider building a hinged trellis that will have a cut out for the window and as tall as the window or closer to the roof line. Then you could grow a vine on either side, weaving it in and out. Here's instructions for the hinged trellis so it can be folded down to do maintenance on the garage without damaging the vine. You could build it in 2 or 3 sections.
    http://www.michaelholigan.com/depar...745&mscssid=9X6T9UBVM2N19HUCQUQ8G2J3N3AT0A50#
    http://www.trellisstructures.com/custom/wall-trellis-2.html
    http://www.trellisstructures.com/custom/entryway-lattice.html

    Here's some ideas if you only want it to go to the top of the window and tie it in with the ones on either side.
    http://www.trellisstructures.com/trellises/index.html

    I love native honeysuckles, and with a larger trellis you could do that. There are a few that start blooming in May and bloom on and off until hard frost. They offer nectar to the hummingbirds and berries to the birds and aren't invasive pests. I'm guessing you live in hardiness zone 6 based on the nursery location. That will help with plant selection. Here's a zip code zone finder.
    http://www.gardenweb.com/zones/zip.cgi

    Lonicera sempervirens 'Blanche Sandman'
    http://www.gardenvines.com/catalog/lonicera-blanche-sandman-p-112.html

    Lonicera sempervirens 'Alabama Crimson'
    http://www.gardenvines.com/catalog/....html?osCsid=0d261de6a5200e2a91b0ae7917319da1

    Lonicera sempervirens 'Major Wheeler'
    http://www.gardenvines.com/catalog/....html?osCsid=0d261de6a5200e2a91b0ae7917319da1

    Lonicera sempervirens 'Magnifica'
    http://www.gardenvines.com/catalog/....html?osCsid=0d261de6a5200e2a91b0ae7917319da1

    Here's some other native honeysuckles.
    http://www.hort.uconn.edu/plants/l/lonsem/lonsem1.html

    Lonicera heckrottii 'Gold Flame' aka Goldflame honeysuckle is a cross between a native Lonicera sempervirens and a non-native with the misleading name of Lonicera americana. It's not a purebred native but it's not invasive and is fragrant. The fragrance can be variable on this one so purchase in bloom if fragrance is important to you.
    http://www.hort.uconn.edu/plants/l/lonhec/lonhec1.html

    Please DO NOT plant the invasive pest Lonicera japonica aka Japanese honeysuckle aka Hall's honeysuckle aka Lonicera japonica 'Hall's' aka Lonicera purpurea or purple honeysuckle. It's a cream and white flower and is fragrant, but has made a mess of many natural areas.

    I'm thinking that eventually you will want to merge the beds along the fence and under the garage and plant either more shrubs or a mix of perennials, bulbs and shrubs. It would be lovely for you to see early spring bulbs in your zone. Look out your windows and think about where you'd like to see flowers after a long winter. You mentioned that you like fragrance. These sites are fun. At the first site click on 'Online Catalog' and look to the left. They have fragrant plants and seeds for fragrant plants. Check the hardiness zones.
    http://www.selectseeds.com/
    http://flowerscentgardens.com/

    Would need to know your hardiness zone for sure and the sun conditions (how many hours) for the raised bed. Full sun is 6 hours or more, part sun is 4 to 6 hours, part shade is 2 to 4 hours and shade is 2 hours or less of sun. Do you want all the same plant material such as shrub roses or antique roses? Maybe a fragrant rose or one that is a repeat bloomer. Want to see different plants blooming at different times or all summer long bloom with annuals that you can change every year?

    If you decide to mail order plants you can use this site to check references. You can also search for reputable nurseries in your area and even search by plant material.
    http://davesgarden.com/gwd/

    Since I'm being so negative about the work done, if you are at all skeptical of my comments about your tree plantings or the arborvitae overplanting, I can give you some tree forums where certified arborists answer questions and you can post your pics there and see what they say. Of course you could always post the pics of the arborvitae on the conifers board here too. We also have a maple forum.

    Hope I haven't overwhelmed you with all this info. Take your time and get back to me if you have any comments or questions.

    Newt
     
  4. Sandy

    Sandy Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Pennsylvania - Zone 6
    Wow! Yes, I am "a bit" overwhelmed. Well, I asked for it. The nursery that I used had a very good reputation. I must say that I was disappointed that the owner wasn't here for detailed placement (and advice) for placement of some of the plants. Even his crew chief was gone for several hours. Every thing that I thought I knew about planting was not done. The holes were not dug 2-3 times wider than the balls. I questioned this and was looked at as if I was crazy. I asked the owner if perhaps we should water in the hole twice (once to settle and then repeat). He said that it wasn't necessary. He said he'd water real well after everything was in the ground. (I ended up watering everything well into the evening.) Am I somewhat disappointed. Yes. Is everything doen to my expectations? No. You didn't answer my query about not paying in full until I am satisfied completely. I paid for flagstones. One of the workers broke one (split it in two) while putting it in by whacking it hard with a large rubber sledge. I assumed that it would be replaced. It was not.

    I sent an email to the owner and asked him to call as I had questions and concerns. That was the same evening of the day the work was done. I haven't heard anything yet. I plan on driving there on Monday.

    I was the one that asked for the arborvitae to be that close. I want them to grow together so as to become a "privacy fence". I have read that this distance for this type of arborvitae is acceptable when used as a border like this.

    I agree that the tree peonie is too close to the garage. It needs to be moved. It was my decision to place the PG hydrangea "grandiflora" at that corner. I didn't know what to do. I was unsure. The owner wasn't there and I decided to ask the crew chief what he thought. I should have gone with my gut instead of listening to him. That should be moved, too.

    Would I be out of line to not make final payment until the stone is replaced and the two plants are moved?

    I love your idea of honeysuckle. I wouldn't care if the window of the garage was covered. Honeysuckle is a wonderful choice. The old world roses are a favorite of mine. I prefer bushes and climbers. I have several Alba Semi-plena in the front yard. They are particularly hardy (and I do not have a green thumb)...it was a good choice for this zone. I have a rather large lilac in the side yard and several rose bushes that fend for themselves. I believe I am in zone 6 for minimum average temperature. One chart I looked at indicated zone 40. Not sure what that was about.

    I know that the plants in front of the garage look like little islands and there's no cohesive plan. That's my fault. I had hoped that the nursery owner would have more suggestions (he was helpful in keeping the cost down for us). We plan to add flowers in front of most of the shrubs but really need to keep everythign as low maintenance as we can as neither of us can do heavy garden work, bend over or get on our knees. That is why we got the raised bed.

    I have tulips, anemones and crocus planted on the other side of the wood fence. There's a 2.5'x15' bed there. I thought perhaps that daffodils would be nice somewhere but I have no idea where.

    The area where the PG is does not get the hot afternoon sun. Everything else is full sun for most of the day....except for the tree peonie and the maple but they do get the required 4-6 hrs to be called full sun.

    Newt said..."I'm thinking that eventually you will want to merge the beds along the fence and under the garage and plant either more shrubs or a mix of perennials, bulbs and shrubs. It would be lovely for you to see early spring bulbs in your zone. Look out your windows and think about where you'd like to see flowers after a long winter."

    Yes, it is my ultimate goal to merge those areas. I'm not sure how. It is going to be trial and error, I think. With help from nice folks like you, maybe it can happen.

    Thank you again for such great advice. I am going to print everything. I will check out those sites. It's an adventure every time I go outside. I can't believe how much those tulips meant to me this spring. I smiled every time I got into my car and I smiled every time I came home. No matter how grumpy or down I felt those beautiful bulbs cheered me up. I want to feel that same way every time I look out the window or sit on the porch.

    I enjoy photography and I am saving to buy a good macro lens (I'd love an L series) so I can get better photos of my flowers this summer. I take pictures of bees, butterflies and caterpillars. I love to watch the hummingbirds at the butterfly bushes and look forward to seeing the birds attracted to the beauty berry bush in the fall.

    Thanks again for your advice, Newt. I realize that you took a fair amount of time and thought in your post. It's appreciated.

    Sandy
    Pittsburgh

    PS...You checked out Plumline?
     
  5. Newt

    Newt Well-Known Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,274
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Maryland USA zone 7
    Hi Sandy,

    Sorry I overwhelmed you. I get upset when people are taken advantage of. That's alot of money to spend. What they did was unprofessional & just plain wrong. The way the trees were planted it could take 2 to 5 years for them to fail. By then the guarantee is gone.

    Oops. Do NOT pay another penny until they replace the flagstone & correct their errors. That gives you leverage. It's always wise not to pay in full in advance. The planting holes for the trees need to be enlarged, the root collars exposed & the mulch done properly & wider around the trees. The J maple & tree peony probably need to be moved forward as well as a couple of the other shrubs so they don't grow into the fence. Get the cultivar name of the tree so you know the mature size & don't have to prune it to death. J maples don't require alot of pruning if sited properly. They should move the hydrangea for free as a good will gesture, even though you said to put it there, because of all they have done wrong. I also just noticed something & am wondering if they were supposed to cut in an edge in the lawn where the arborvitae are. In the pics of their work at their site they show nicely cut-in edges where the lawn meets the planting beds. Here you have mulch spilling out into the lawn & someone will have to weed in no time due to invading grass.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2942044670015780464iQHxvw

    Consider replacing the PG with clump forming perennials on the corner in the pic above. Think of a 'U' shaped bed extending around the corner where the guy in the white shirt's right foot is. Maybe dark leaves against the building & light green or light colored variegated plants in front of the dark leaves. The lighter leaves in front will light the path at night. How about native Heuchera aka coral bells with their pretty colorful leaves & flowers that hummers like? Since you have a light colored foundation, maybe dark Heuchera 'Plum Pudding' in the back & Heuchera 'Lime Rickey' at the front for contrast. You'll have pretty leaves to look at all season long, they grow in clumps, won't invade the path & are easy care. I think H. 'Ruby Veil' is one of the larger leaved ones. You could even use those colors as a theme in the garden. You have a burning bush with it's light green leaves in spring and summer that will get red in the fall, so adding dark red/purple leaves and lime greens could be your theme to unite what you have.

    H. Lime Rickey
    http://www.terranovanurseries.com/wholesale/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=145

    H. 'Plum Pudding'
    http://www.terranovanurseries.com/wholesale/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=159

    H. 'Ruby Veil'
    http://www.terranovanurseries.com/wholesale/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=162

    H. 'Black Beauty'
    http://www.terranovanurseries.com/wholesale/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=121

    You could add some plants under the J maple.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2019526180015780464IPDONH

    Plant them about 3' from the base of the tree. Continue the theme of light and dark leaves in the garden that you didn't realize you have going. Even the trim colors on the garage match, but you probably already knew that when you selected the trees. :) Hostas are easy care too. Maybe Japanese painted fern under that maple for a bit of the reddish purple with hostas. Here's a mix of Japanese painted ferns, sedge (the grassy looking stuff), maidenhair fern (light green) in the back and a Heuchera 'Plum Pudding' or possibly H. 'Black Beauty' on the right. There's lots of Heuchera with colored leaves to choose from. Tiarella, another clump forming native, comes with variegated leaves and likes the shade.
    http://edonart.jrmhost.com/images/fern_garden_2.jpg
    http://www.terranovanurseries.com/wholesale/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=346
    http://www.terranovanurseries.com/wholesale/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=366

    Just found this gorgeous Japanese painted fern clicking around the Terranova site. Wow!
    http://www.terranovanurseries.com/wholesale/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=10

    Ok, as long as you know there may be some issues with pruning. :)

    Glad you do, but I wouldn't cover the window. It helps with contrast and depth. You could even put a window box under the window. No bending down to plant it. I have Lonicera sempervirens 'Blanche Sandman' and L. sempervirens 'John Clayton'. The hummers love 'Blanche' but don't visit 'John' much. I suspect it's his yellow color. Wish I'd gotten L. heckrottii 'Gold Flame' instead. I think with your color scheme and the garage trim colors L. 'Gold Flame' would be gorgeous. And it smells good too if you purchase it in bloom and check the fragrance. The fragrance can be variable.

    No problem, it takes time to fill in a landscape. First the trees and shrubs and then the perennials and bulbs. That's when you start connecting the beds where the shrubs are.

    I say plants that grow in clumps have good garden manners. That is why I've recommended the ones I did so they don't need dividing every couple of years or jump around the garden. Been there and am disabled too. Many that I've suggested are natives and tend to resist pests and disease better as well.

    Maybe put the PG where the tree peony is or even more towards the corner of the garage. It would help to balance the height of the maple a bit. Do make sure it's foward enough so it has space for a nice shape. You could do the 'U' shape around the corner of the garage towards the door to soften the corner. The peony could go to the right of the raised bed. Is there enough room there for a 4' wide plant? It's upright but rounded form would soften that corner.
    http://community.webshots.com/photo/551176935/2514114670015780464ZptQLS

    How to prune a shrub into a tree.
    http://www.freeplants.com/free-article-training-trees-into-shrubs.htm

    Some daffs in front of the peony, that bloom when it does, would be nice. If it's pink there are daffs with pink centers. If your peony is red there are daffs with bits of red in them. :) The color is off on this first daff pic as it should be red and white, but looks pink and white.
    http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com/spring/productview/index.php?sku=01-0402
    http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com/spring/productview/index.php?sku=01-0120
    http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com/spring/productview/index.php?sku=01-0257
    http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com/spring/productview/index.php?sku=01-0258
    http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com/spring/productview/index.php?sku=01-0405
    http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com/spring/productview/index.php?sku=01-0420

    These native Dichelostemma - ida-maia bulbs bloom in early summer and hummers will know you have food in the garden when they see this red!
    http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com/spring/productview/index.php?sku=14-0103

    Camassia is a wonderful native bulb that blooms in late spring or early summer depending on which ones you choose and is carefree too. Takes sun or part sun and could be mixed in with other perennials.
    http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com/spring/search/listgenus.php?id=9

    This site has wonderful bulbs. You could easily spend your entire grocery budget for a month! Consider some of the lesser bulbs that bloom very early like your crocus, or even before, to extend the season.
    http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com/spring/index.php

    Gosh, anywhere you have sun in the spring. I like bulbs in perennial beds so they don't have to be watered alot in the summer as you'd need to do with annuals. Bulbs go dormant in summer and don't like alot of water then. The emerging leaves of the perennials will cover the yellowing leaves of the bulbs. Of course you could put them in front of shrubs, but you will need to give the shrubs space to mature.

    You are so very welcome! I'd love to know how it goes on Monday. Don't hesitate to write with more questions.

    Yup.

    Newt
     
  6. KarinL

    KarinL Well-Known Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,058
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Vancouver
    Newt, you get the prize for best answer of the week, I think!

    I will add an "on the other hand" by saying that thousands of trees and arbs have been planted as these have and have survived. In terms of the relationship between you and the nursery, I think you will get into a no-win situation if you withhold payment on the basis of (a) trying to predict whether the trees will survive, and (b) that they did some things wrong because you asked them to. He's gambling that everything will make it, while you're worried that it might not. You are more likely to be right in this case because of the time of year. I think the solution that will keep the relationship civil is to ensure you have a full replacement guarantee in the event that plants die. I would ask that the owner himself bring you a new piece of flagstone, look the work over, maybe look at your pictures, sign an agreement if one isn't already in the contract, and pick up your cheque in one visit. Hopefully he will recognize an opportunity to keep a customer happy who might be back for return business.
     
  7. oscar

    oscar Active Member

    Messages:
    493
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Surrey, England
    Great posts Newt (should be plant expert under your name ;))

    The flagstone should be replaced (most companies allow a 5% breakage in the quote)

    as for all the rest, yes it did look like they cut corners.......i'm sure its not easy trying to keep costs down and quotes low (too high and you don't get the work, too low and you don't make any money)

    It's a good idea to get the boss round and explain your disappointment.
     
  8. Newt

    Newt Well-Known Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,274
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Maryland USA zone 7
    Thank you Karin and Oscar. Sandy and I have corresponded through private messaging as well and she will be meeting with the owner on Tuesday. I'm hoping that she will get some satisfaction. He has said that he will replace the broken fieldstone. He's not happy about the rest, and actually seemed offended in the e-mail he sent her. He was rather defensive, but I'll let her explain it after she meets with him.

    Newt
     
  9. Sandy

    Sandy Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Pennsylvania - Zone 6
    Hi, everyone. This has definitely been a very trying week. After waiting for a response from the owner of the nursery (and receiving nothing but the final bill), I did a little investigative work and sent him an email. In this email, I told him what I expected him to fix. I wrote him this.... "Because of what I saw online and in person at your nursery, I fully expected that I would receive the kind of detail that a professional arborist/landscaper could deliver. The information on your site is contrary to how you planted. The ISA's reference for planting technique (Watson's 'Principles and Practices of Planting Trees and Shrubs') is contrary to how you planted. And, additionally, even your own alma mater differs with you in how you planted. Please contact J. Roger ****, Associate Professor of Horticulture at ******** for details if you'd like." I included the professor's email adress and forwarded a copy of the email that the professor sent to me about the improper planting technique employed in my yard.
    I told the nursery owner that I would gladly pay him when he came to do remedy my concerns. I knew that there was no chance he'd dig up things and plant them properly. I wanted him to move several plants, replace broken stone, regrade an area that let water drain toward the foundation of my house and cut twine and burlap away from the base of the trees. Yes, that is how several were left. I held my ground and finally the man he sent removed that twine and rolled down the burlap as much as possible. The owner did not come himself...the coward.

    All I can do now is water and wait....and hope that these plants find a way to survive.

    Thanks for your help and in particular a special thanks to Newt for her invailable personal assistance.

    Sandy

    PS.....I forgot to say that they did move the hydrangea. Hurray! One small victory. The broken stone is gone and the grading issue was addressed. They brought grass seed and spread around the stones....something they had not doen originally. I never did hear from the owner. Perhaps he was a wee bit embarrassed. I rather doubt it though. More like he had enough of me. I personally took my rubber tipped walking stick and moved the mulch away from the trees and plants. No more volcano. More like a caldera now!
     
  10. Newt

    Newt Well-Known Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,274
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Maryland USA zone 7
    Just to let everyone know it has been a pleasure to help Sandy with this situation. She has retained her sense of humor throughout and showed the greatest restraint in dealing with the nursery owner.

    Newt
     
  11. moth1

    moth1 Member

    Messages:
    18
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Nova Scotia
    Hello all

    I read this thread with interest, as those familiar with my posts know that I'm a very novice gardener and much dependent on advice I read on the web.

    I do have some experience with contracts, though - albeit not with landscaping companies. Reading Sandy's story reminds me that it can never hurt to supply a detailed list of specifications when making a contract. Something along the lines of, "trees to be planted with the root collar [at grade/ x inches above grade/whatever]; root collar not to be covered with more than [0/x inches] of mulch; planting holes to be at least x per cent greater than the root ball of supplied trees, as measured by diameter of the root ball at time of planting; placement of plantings to allow for x inches/feet of clearance, when planting is mature, from any other structure or mature plant, projected size of plants at maturity to be taken from [name independent reference.]

    The only thing one can really guarantee is how the plants go in. I'm hardly in a position, as a novice gardener, to make predictions about how or if something will thrive instead of die, but I do know that guarantees are darn difficult to capitalize on, since definitions of 'failure' not to mention causes of same are difficult to establish. There's also the possibility of the company going either out of business or reincorporating itself, e.g. Moth1 Landscaping (2007) limited. (In which case your guarantee with Moth1 Landscaping (2006) limited is null and void.)

    The only other thing I can add is that with all the headaches, Sandy, you still have the basics done according to plan, i.e. the bed layouts, and at least some kind of planting holes dug. Even if your worst nightmare unfolds and your trees die, you won't be starting precisely from square one. Good luck, enjoy your garden - and thank you for sharing your trials and tribulations (makes me feel a little less alone as I embark on my own landscape challenges.

    P.S. I too was very impressed with Newt's answer. Newt, if you know of someone have as knowledgeable about clematis as you are about landscaping, I have a question pending under the Vines forum.
     
  12. Laurie

    Laurie Active Member Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    428
    Likes Received:
    23
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    [FONT=&quot]I agree, Newt, that it was wonderfully supportive of you to spend so much detailed time with your educated responses here. I also agree, Sandy, that you should carefully read the contract and/or estimate and assert your requirements for a job performed to their own standards as set forth on their own website. I am still wondering whether they are going to add a border between the grass and hedge to keep that aspect of the maintenance down. With all of that sun, perhaps some lavender would be great to plant to enjoy the bee activity and for soothing purple blend with this color scheme. You could add that in with whatever roses you choose to plant. The more sun-tolerant heucheras would look good there too, although those like Palace Purple need more shade. Some roses will give you hips and fall color, which will contrast nicely with the likely scarlet your maple cultivar will provide. The rose currently at the top of my wish list is a lower-growing hybrid rugosa with those characteristics: Fru Dagmar Hastrup. Another idea for fall color and winter flowers for the raised bed would be the hybrid witch hazels like Jelena or Diana planted center and espaliered against the fence. It is a bit fancy, but this garden has a bit of a formal look, and a bit expensive, but you could start with a one-gallon, and they are slow-growing. UWBG here in Seattle has one of each espaliered against a sturdy trellis. Perhaps you could add one of the smaller hardy ornamental grasses. We acquire our plants on a really low budget, so now that you have made this big investment, learn where in your area you can get the plants you would like at the best prices: fall clearances, garden club and Master Gardeners spring sales, college horticultural program sales, some of the arboreta and botanical gardens foundation sales, cuttings from friends - free.
    [/FONT]
     
  13. Newt

    Newt Well-Known Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,274
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Maryland USA zone 7
    Thank you all for your compliments. I'm blushing! It was wonderful being able to assist Sandy with the issues and see a positive resolution. In all fairness, Sandy did alot of research and was quite creative with contacts to the University where the nursery owner received his degree. She was even able to get support from them about the planting procedures.

    I did get over to the vines forum and have tried to help moth with the Clematis issue.

    Newt
     

Share This Page