Hello, Does anyone have an Acer elegantulum? I tried to sow some, and a few of them have germinated (I have others still in the fridge that I'm going to sow this weekend). It's not as hardy as A. palmatum, but I liked the shape of the leaves on the picture I've seen. The seeds are from "Semences du Puy" for those of you who are in Europe. Edit: I suddenly remembered that there is a "search" button just as I was sending my message, stupid me ^^ There's a thread started by "ogrodnik" there: Acer elegantulum
i have one ,the winter 2012 min temp.in my country was is -7 and this maple is survivor without problem :-)
Alex, thanks for your reply. But but I won't do as the Romans do in Rome ;°D The pb ius not that the temps can get bvelow minus 15, it's that the soil can stay frozen for 10-15 days. In that case, for species taht are not so hardy, it's acomplte no-no. But I'll keep on trying, my son has got me some cold frames from a farm that will shortly be torn down, glass and wood, I'll see if I can make anything of his savings ;)
in the book Maples of the World Acer elegantulum is write resistence for the usda zone 7 or 8 ..and not hardy :)
One leaf at the bottom of a seedling has turned into autumn colours. Well, if a whole tree gts these colours, it will be like fireworks!
I picked up a little elegantum at the end of last year, here it is this spring. It leafed out quite early and so is probably susceptible to late frosts in our climate. However a little elegantum seedling (possible hybrid) that I was given is just leafing out now.
Nice little one. It has reddish tones that mine don't have, but we know that soil condition, pH, fertilizers, climate, etc. may lead to variations on trees from the same stock. I recently read again an article on J. maples in an old bonsai magazine where the author (a Japanese bonsai nursery owner) wrote that the less fertilizer you give them, the better the autumn colours are. But once again, it depends on so many factors, it could well be the true species, and if not, it's a very nice one anyway. Mine have a kind of khaki colour because the reddish tones are not so present, turning into green when the leaves harden. My soil, and the water from the tap is very basic, not acidic at all.
Alex is that an Elegantulum as well, I do like this Acer. All are lovely specimens...thanks for sharing!
My A. elegantulum are doing fine. The growth is not as strong as last year's, but what I've read seems to be true: they're fast growers in the first years. Even the one I managed to save using hydrogren peroxide looks all right (first two pictures).
Here's mine on the 1st of July. Growing very strongly in spite of having been completely tipped out of its pot when the table it was on collapsed. The other little one I have is doing poorly but a bit better than before; however it had almost no root when I transplanted it last fall. A very attractive little tree to my tastes! (Sorry about the sideways picture...) -E P.S. Do you have the pouzolane just as a top dressing, or are they actually growing in it?
This coarse pouzzolane is a top dressing. I use smaller gauge pouzzolane (5 mm), or "bims" (a sort of pumice) in my mix, or both, about 30%. When you water potted trees, the top soil becomes very compact after a while, especially when the water is very hard, which is the case here. So putting a layer of 0.5-1.5 pozzolane helps the soil being draining, and oxygenated, which is what all trees like, don't they?... That's for the summer. In the winter, I put some of my most fragile trees (bonsai, or "potsai") in a patch against a wall where I dug out 20-25 cm deep (about ten inches). I have a big Zelkova serrata, so I put a first layer of leaves at the bottom - I've never ever seen a disease, or pests on this tree. Then I put my potted trees there, each one very close to the other, fill in the spaces between the pots with pine bark, and add the last leaves from the Zelkkova on top. Thus, there is a healthy life down under, friendly fungus (mycorrhizzae), good bacteria. When the bottom layer of leaves starts to decompose, it provides heat, so the trees are more resistant to late frosts, and BTW, frost can kill a lot of pests in the upper part of the tree. This is of course for bonsai, or "potensai", but for those who have potted trees, I'm sure it's one of the best method to have them get through the winter, much better anyway than keeping them in a basement or a garage...
Further confirmation about how fast these grow early on. This past WE I checked the roots and they had absolutely filled the 5l pot, enough so that I have repotted into a 12l. The top continues to grow at a prodigious pace but I'm not too worried so long as the roots are keeping up. They are. I gave it another dose of mycorrhizae and a light osmocote to compensate for the poor coconut substrate, but it certainly doesn't seem to need fertilizer! Alain I use pouzolaine in the mix also but not as a top dressing. -E
I've just taken a picture of my "best" one, it 's from a seed planted in the spring of 2013 and it's at least 1m high today. The width of the pot is 20 cm at the top. I fertilized it two or three times with liquid 6-6-6 fertilizer (cheap product for the supermarket), then with a fertilizer that includes chelated iron in July because it was beginning to have chlorosis.
Big healthy leaves on yours, looks much better than mine which was not only in full sun but had a couple of attacks by bugs, one fairly recently which has left the top looking scruffy. Interesting mine also had some chlorosis problems this year. Wish I had that Zelkova to shelter them under! :) And yes, I agree frost is good for killing pests, it was a really hard year for aphids precisely because it never froze at all.
Well this one was in full sun most ot the time. Those who had the most chlorosis were actually in the shade. It's hard to draw definite conclusions on a limited number of specimens, but from what I've read, its habitat is mountains (400-1200 m.) but not that hardy (zone 7-8). So I think it likes a rather hot, but humid climate in summer: sun during the day, but with mist in the morning and at night. And a mild winter. Considering the fact that here, in June and July, we had spells of very hot weather with occasional showers of rain every day or two, I think these were the ideal conditions. Now, it's like a mild September: I sprayed some of my most fragile trees with a 2/3rd fungicide solution (Myclobutanil) this morning. I wish I had an unheated greenhouse for the winter. ;-)
Autumn colours: the big one was in full sun most of the time, the smaller one against a white wall got the sun in the hottest two hours of the day. It's a pity I didn't take photos of the smaller one before because it has lost most of its leaves now, but they were a luminous red.
politica,aceri e rock roll: Acer elegantulum (autumn colors) autumn colors 2015 politica,aceri e rock roll: Acer elegantulum summer colors 2016 photo autumn colors 2016
Hoping to get some fall colors on mine. I planted it the ground this spring. It has done extremely well in the open yard under the summer heat. Also vigorous growing habits. It shot up at least 1 foot after being stagnant for about 3 months after planting.
@vbx good morning, do post some photos of yours soon, this thread needs some updating with colours from this wonderful cultivar. Edit, as per Emery post I should not have said cultivar.
Just a note, Acer eleganttulum is a species, not a cultivar. I don't know that any cultivars have been selected, though they come out so fast now, who can say? ;) We do see good fall colors off of ours, but this year may nor be spectacular.