A few grafting questions

Discussion in 'Maples' started by sasquatch, Jan 26, 2010.

  1. sasquatch

    sasquatch Active Member

    Messages:
    214
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    PNW, USA
    I'm preparing for my first attempt at grafting this year. I've read every thread I can find, I've seen the slide shows, and I've still got a few questions. I hope yall can help me with some of them.

    I plan on using Parafilm tape. Do you prefer rubber strips, and if so, do you use a wax or sealer along with the rubbers? It sounds like a lot of the sealers are messy and hard to use. Does the Parafilm tape eliminate the need to seal?

    Do you prefer summer grafting or winter grafting? I've read that summer grafting is easier, but it seems like winter grafting may be easier since the grafts take quickly and the new scion grows immediately instead of the next spring.

    I'm in the Willamette Valley of Oregon. Do I need a greenhouse for winter grafts? I plan on building a small greenhouse for the new grafts, but don't plan on using supplemental heat at night. Are greenhouses used to prevent frosty conditions with new grafts, or does the warmer climate encourage rapid growth and healing? I'm a little worried about cooking the young trees since I work a 9-5 job and can't vent mid day. If I use a greenhouse, do I pull them out once the grafts take?

    When exactly is the ideal time to graft. I've read that I should graft at the end of dormancy, so in my area I plan to do my grafts around Feb 13-14 weekend. Is that too early?

    My rootstock are 2-3 years old, and around 4 feet tall. Should I reduce their height by half prior to grafting, but leave some foliage on until the graft takes, or cut it all off at the time of grafting?

    Any other advice you have would be great. I've got 50 rootstock, and over 100 maples to choose scions from, so i hope to prevent a colossal failure on my first attempt.

    Thanks in advance,
    Sasquatch
     
  2. Kaitain4

    Kaitain4 Well-Known Member Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,160
    Likes Received:
    14
    Location:
    Dickson, TN
    Sasquatch,

    From my experience - Parafilm does not produce enough tension for good grafting. I use the rubber bands, then wrap the graft with the parafilm. I would highly suggest using baggies as well. The biggest challenge for a new graft is getting enough moisture up to the newly forming leaves. Since the graft takes a while to function at full capacity, its really easy for the top of the plant to start wilting for lack of moisture. So its essential to keep the humidity very high around the new leaves. Bags accomplish this very well without a greenhouse. Its also better to have the temps on the low side rather than the high side. I keep my studio at 60--65 degrees. Again, this slows the transpiration rate of the plant and allows the graft more time to heal before the new leaves make too many demands.

    So far I do not like summer grafting. I have better success with winter grafting.

    Now thru early March is a good time to graft. In fact, I grafted 75 trees last week. You do want the scions to be completely dormant when you cut them, so don't wait too late in the season. If you need to, you can cut them early, wrap them in moist paper towels, place in a baggie, and store in the fridge for up to a month.

    Bring the understock into a heated space 2 weeks prior to grafting to activate their roots. I cut off the tops of my understock to 10-12 inches high about a week before I start grafting and allow the stems to bleed. You want the understock to dry out before you graft, or the cuts you make while grafting will bleed into the graft union and ruin it. I make sure my understock is almost dry before I graft, then after grafting I keep it close to dry - just tiny sips of water. Once the leaves have come out on the scions you can SLOWLY increase the amount of watering, but you'll need to be careful for the first 6-8 weeks.

    ANY new growth coming off the understock should be removed immediately. Also, after the leaves appear on the scions, cut the understock back to a couple of inches above the graft. Once the graft has really taken well, and the leaves on the scions are fully out, and you have successfully removed the bags and all other "life supprt" measures, you can cut the top of the understock off completely.


    Hope this helps.
     
  3. sasquatch

    sasquatch Active Member

    Messages:
    214
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    PNW, USA
    Thanks for the reply. I have been watching your thread on your grafts. Give us an update once you can tell how they did.
     
  4. emery

    emery Renowned Contributor Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    3,406
    Likes Received:
    3,451
    Location:
    Normandie, France
    Hey K4, any luck with the pseudosieboldianum understock?

    -E
     
  5. Kaitain4

    Kaitain4 Well-Known Member Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,160
    Likes Received:
    14
    Location:
    Dickson, TN
    Emery,

    I did have a few successful grafts on the pseudosieboldianum understock, but in general my summer grafts were not as successful as the winter ones. I saved out some of the understock to try this winter, and hopefully will have better success.
     
  6. koiboy

    koiboy Member

    Messages:
    22
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    California, USA
    Hey K4, I know you've mentioned before how long it takes before you should start to see the graft take (or fail), but I can't remember the time frame. How long after you graft?
     
  7. Kaitain4

    Kaitain4 Well-Known Member Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,160
    Likes Received:
    14
    Location:
    Dickson, TN
    Its usually a few weeks. That can depend on the temperature, how active the understock is, etc. Its kind of an agonizing time! The ones that fail become evident within a couple of weeks. The scion turns dark and you can tell the union didn't take.
     
  8. katsura

    katsura Active Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    446
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Novato, California
    Doug,
    You are such a generous soul to put all your efforts out there for all of us to share and
    learn from. I have not learned to graft - I germinate seedlings seriously instead - but your
    pictures, words & enthusiasm might just get this old dog to learn a new tricks.
    Thank you for your generous soul, my friend.
    Mike
     
  9. Kaitain4

    Kaitain4 Well-Known Member Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,160
    Likes Received:
    14
    Location:
    Dickson, TN
    Mike, you are too kind...
     
  10. danc

    danc Active Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Transylvania, Ro
    Mike is not exaggerating at all. I did some reading about grafting a while ago and I might try it in the future. But if my memory is not failing me, it is the first time I hear about allowing the rootstock to bleed and other important details. Though they may sound like obvious things to do.
     
  11. sasquatch

    sasquatch Active Member

    Messages:
    214
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    PNW, USA
    Here are a couple of photos of my rootstock. I brought them into the garage a few days ago. This weekend, I will be cutting the trunks down to 20 inches tall, and bringing them into my kitchen in front of a big sunny window for a week. I hope to start grafting next weekend.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 4, 2010
  12. danc

    danc Active Member 10 Years

    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Transylvania, Ro
    This is quite a start. Good luck!
     
  13. Kaitain4

    Kaitain4 Well-Known Member Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,160
    Likes Received:
    14
    Location:
    Dickson, TN
    Very nice, Sasquatch!
     
  14. 01876

    01876 Active Member

    Messages:
    63
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Mass US
    Wow! 8 point method cool ~
    Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge K4. I myself grafted 100 A. palmatum this weekend by using very similar practice (pre-bleeding, grafting bands, parafilm, and baggies). This is my second winter grafting attempt and I hope I’ll have better yield this year. Thanks again.
     
  15. AlainK

    AlainK Renowned Contributor Forums Moderator Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    3,621
    Likes Received:
    5,192
    Location:
    nr Orléans, France (E.U.)
    Thanks a lot Doug.

    I've been tempted by having a go at grafting for a couple of years, but thanks to your advice I will make my first attemp this year.

    I've ordered a few J. maples as rootstock, I hope they won't come too late in the season, but so far, it's snowing again here and they forecast down to -10° next week here, so there might still be some time left.

    I already have a 3-4 mm thick A. palmatum sapling that I will use to try to graft A. shirasawanum aureum.

    Feel so excited about it, a real kid ;-)
     
  16. Kaitain4

    Kaitain4 Well-Known Member Maple Society 10 Years

    Messages:
    1,160
    Likes Received:
    14
    Location:
    Dickson, TN
    01876,

    100! That's fantastic! Please keep us posted and share a few pics if you can.


    Alain,

    No problemo! And so you know, I graft well into March. As long as scions are dormant you can graft. Have fun with it!
     

Share This Page