Please help me!!!

Discussion in 'Citrus' started by thebeno, Apr 17, 2007.

  1. thebeno

    thebeno Member

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    Hello there, I hope you can help.

    Bought a lemon tree end of summer last year, has been constantly dropping leaves since, was in a south facing bedroom window (radiator turned off), using winter citrus feed 18-18-18 at every feed. In the last month I have been taking it outside for the day and in for nights as its 3-6 degrees at night here. The last few nights its stayed outside when above 5 degrees. Recently changed to summer fertiliser 25-10-18 I think. Recently repotted using Citrus Compost only, but quite worried as it looks to hold in moisture easily.

    Some of the leaves are also turning yellow, especially the new growth. Also the tips of the branches were turning brown, so I chopped them back slightly. The tree used to be on one of those circular things, but Im trying to open it out more, hence the ugly appearance.

    Is there anything I am doing wrong? Can I put it in my greenhouse constantly, will it be ok over night?
     

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  2. nancypetty

    nancypetty Member

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    how warm does your green house stay I would say yes they like sun humitiy and well drained soil the tree can take a mild frost just not the fruit
     
  3. thebeno

    thebeno Member

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    Average at the moment outside is about high 22C/70F low 3C/37F so I guess the greenhouse increases that to about 80F daytime, 40F at night. I was worried about "leaf scortch"? Dont know much about it. Do the photo's look ok to you, regarding the yellowness?
     
  4. skeeterbug

    skeeterbug Active Member

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    If your greenhouse temp is 40 F at night and the leaves get exposed to direct sun in the morning before the roots have warmed to more than 55 or 60 they will be non-functional to marginally functional and the leaves will be killed by overheating.

    Skeet
     
  5. thebeno

    thebeno Member

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    Oh right, would you advise to keep the plants indoors until the minimum temp is somewhat higher? Or I could warm the roots as mentioned in other posts?

    Would you keep the lights turned on 24/7 or just at night?

    Thanks for your reply.

    Ben
     
  6. skeeterbug

    skeeterbug Active Member

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    I was moving my pots from outside in the sun in the daytime to inside at night-- I only heated the soil at night. I had about 15 pots and just wound the garland type lights between the pots for a temp boost of about 15 to 18 F. Once they are outside in the sun with roots that are warm, the sun starts to warm the pots as well as the leaves. I kept a thermometer in 1 of my pots to check soil temps.

    Skeet
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2007
  7. thebeno

    thebeno Member

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    Cracking idea, does having warm roots but no sun not a bad idea?
     
  8. skeeterbug

    skeeterbug Active Member

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    Warm roots and no sun is only a problem when it persist for a long time-- then the tree tries to grow without light which it cannot do. You are also safe putting the plants in a cool dark place like a basement for the entire winter, but you will get no growth at all during that time.

    Skeet
     
  9. thebeno

    thebeno Member

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    Oh right, I didnt know that, so a south facing window over winter is not necessary? That would be good as I only have 1 which is my bedroom, and have to have the heating turned off in there for the trees.
     
  10. skeeterbug

    skeeterbug Active Member

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    If your house is not heated to the point that the roots stay above 60, it is best to put them in a north facing window so that they do not get direct sunlight. Most people that have problems "think" the soil temp is above 60, but there are many factors that can cool the roots below the temp where the thermostat is-- it is colder on the floor, colder in front of a window, and the soil is cooled by evaporation.

    Skeet
     
  11. thebeno

    thebeno Member

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    Right I see, well I have invested in a heat mat now, so maybe I will put on south facing window over winter and keep roots above 65F ish? And perhaps mist to increase humidity?
     
  12. skeeterbug

    skeeterbug Active Member

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    Misting will help--one thing it does besides raise the humidity is direct cooling-- it is one of the things I noticed on my seedlings when they were left outside-- if we had a heavy dew on mornings when the temp was marginal (55-60) there would not be any limp leaves, however at the same temps when there was no dew, tender young leaves would be limp until the temp got up into the 60's.

    One caution about misting--if your water has high salt content, excessive misting can leave a salt residue that will burn the leaves-- you can avoid that if you use distilled water.

    Skeet
     
  13. thebeno

    thebeno Member

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    Or rain water?
     
  14. skeeterbug

    skeeterbug Active Member

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    Sure--rain water should be low in salt unless you are near the sea-- I have seen salt spray from storms here that killed leaves on trees miles inland-- and I'm not talking about hurricanes.

    Skeet
     
  15. thebeno

    thebeno Member

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    OK great thanks, any idea why the ends of my branches are dying?
     

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