Spider Mite Problem

Discussion in 'Garden Pest Management and Identification' started by Herky, May 30, 2006.

  1. Herky

    Herky Member

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    Hi, I live in northern Iowa and have a few butterfly bushes in my garden here. For the last two years these little tiny bugs have just demolished these plants. I had 5 of them last year and this spring 2 of them came back up. I think it is because of the damage these bugs caused. Like mentioned earlier I am sure they are spider mites. They reside on the underside of the leaf and are very small, a brownish color and lay eggs and small web-like structures can be seen. Now, all of last summer, you could say I applied a full out assault on these little monsters. I am talking everything. I tried spraying water first and and every pesticide I could get my hands on...living in an agricultural community I can get some nasty chemicals. But, those would not even slow these things down. Now, this spring I figure that the winter should have taken care of these bugs and won't have a problem with them now. So, I go out and buy two new replacements for the dead plants. As of one week ago, I have spotted these little monsters all over my butterfly bushes AGAIN! So, on with the chemical wars. I have sprayed my plants again about two or three times now, to no avail. I can spray enough pesticide on a plant to probably kill a horse, but it has very little effect on these things. Does anybody have any suggestions for me, what can I do? Anything??

    Thanks for any help!
     
  2. Daniel Mosquin

    Daniel Mosquin Paragon of Plants UBC Botanical Garden Forums Administrator Forums Moderator 10 Years

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    ...and applied a full-out assault on every other living thing with inappropriate uses of biocides, by the sounds of it.

    The Connecticut Agricultural Research Station provides advice for effectively controlling twospotted spider mite on butterfly bush here: Plant Health Problems of Butterfly Bush (also follow the link to the Phlox page). Indiscriminate use of biocides is preventing a predator population from becoming established.

    Also, other sites suggest that mites only become a problem when the plants are stressed - make sure you are watering the plant effectively.

    If all else fails, seek out alternative plants instead of using more chemicals.
     
  3. Herky

    Herky Member

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    I am not sure how you can determine that I am misusing chemicals by reading one paragraph on the internet. I really did not come here to get flamed on my use of synthetic chemicals. I know it is not a good practice...why do you think I used water first? That very reason! BTW...compared to the thousands of gallons of these very pesticides that get sprayed on tens of thousands of acres around here, my little spray bottle probably isn't going to do much harm in comparison. The plants were almost half dead(about one month after infestation) when I started using the chemicals to stop the pests, so I am pretty sure the predator population was not working and was not going to do any good at this point. Should I have waited longer?

    I have had these plants for three years now. No problems the first year. Huge problem last year. Thought the winter would have killed the bugs. If problems continue this year I will not be raising them anymore...I already realize this. I am just looking for some other ideas or methods that may have proven effective for this problem before my plants die...Or does that not matter, as long as other bugs don't die?

    The plants were properly cared for, correct sunlight, well watered, etc. That should not have been a problem. The year before they thrived in their location, I did not notice any signs of stress, and cannot think of any reasons for there to be stress present.

    Do you know of any particular conditions that these mites may prefer or thrive in? Possibly if there is, that is known, I could change the living conditions and 'drive' them away.

    Thank you for the link and info. I appreciate the help. It should be useful.
     
  4. L.plant

    L.plant Active Member

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    If pesticide application is necessary, try using disulfoton. This is a granular systemic miticide that is absorbed through the root system, and is widely available. It's very effective against mites and because it is in granular form, there is less chance of killing beneficial insects/mites.
    I agree with you that your actions are minimal in the big picture, but responsible pesticide use is a collective effort and I agree with Daniel that it sounds like you may be over doing it. Obviously the chemicals you are using don't seem to be working, so try something else as opposed to continually using ineffective and potentially harmful chemicals. If there is a local extension service in your area, the best thing to do may be to contact them for advice.
     
  5. Herky

    Herky Member

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    L.plant-Thank you very much for the info./suggestion. I will look into that, and see if it works, it sounds like a good idea. As far as the local extension office, I would try that but the local guys are pretty much clueless. So, I am pretty sure that wouldn't be of much use.

    And, yes I have used a variety of different chemicals, but I would have to say I am not continously using ineffective products. As I try them, and when I find they don't work, I try something else. I would definately have to say I am not just dumping chemicals on that are useless, just to say I did. Like mentioned earlier, I have tried many different insecticides and now classified them as junk and moved on. That is exactly why I am here, looking for different methods, better ways, or more effective treatments, then what I am currently doing.

    Thanks Again!
     
  6. jimweed

    jimweed Active Member 10 Years

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    Herky, If you are somewhat sure you are dealing with spider mites, Lime Sulphur should burn there buts right outa there. Beware not to burn the plants to bad, if using try to do so on a cooler damp kinda day with a 1/2 the suggested mixture rate for dormant fruit tree spraying. Just a light coverage can be very effective against spider mites. I am not advocating this as a proffessional practice, but mearly just a suggeston. Jim
     

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