Picked up an 'Aureum' very late in the season

About a month ago I was smitten with this JM, after seeing on line pictures, many on this site of many beautiful Aureum specimens (I have no JM's of any type in my garden). I had been searching nursery after nursery the past few weeks with not much success. Well I was almost resigned to starting my search again next spring (of course it would be easy at that time of the year) and then I came across one at a nursery about an hour away from my home. I picked it up last night. I think it is a very good size i.e. 15 gallon container, 5 foot high and I got it at a good price i.e. $210 + tax (including a 2 year warranty).

Although this morning is cold, windy and even a bit snowy this tree is fully dormant in this fibre board pot. If you look at the second picture you can see that it seems also bound in some burlap. I plan to cut away the string and pull back that burlap away from the main trunk. Should I remove the cardboard pot completely before planting? Given that it now appears the cold weather is here i.e. likely 32 F and less from now on (we are zone 5b Canada) should I water the tree once it is in the hole?

Thanks for your advice and experience.

 

There look to be some issues with this tree, but the main structure seems healthy and given the size and price it is still a good buy. It looks as if it was originally a ball and burlap tree that was planted in a pot for a temporary measure, and maybe stayed there longer than intended. The main issue is the string, I agree it would be advisable to remove the string from around the trunk ASAP. It looks like it is cutting into the base of the stem so care will be needed for a full removal.

This is a good time of year to plant in mild zones but feedback I have seen from zone 5 growers is that Japanese maples in zone 5 have a much higher survival rate from spring or early summer planting than autumn or winter. (Zone 5 growers please confirm or deny.) Add to that the fresh wounds that will be revealed when the string is removed from the trunk base I would not advise planting now. If you have access to an unheated garage or outbuilding or similar structure my advice would be to overwinter the maple there and plant out in spring. It would also be a good idea to remove much of the soil at plant out time, to allow buried string and burlap removal, and to straighten out the root system as much as possible as it may have become rootbound in the time it has been in the container at the nursery.

There may also be some dead minor branches, it is hard to tell from the picture, but look out for any branches that are white looking and brittle. Not a big deal if it is only small branches, but it is a good idea to remove them in any case.

Whatever you decide, I wish you the best of luck with this one, it has the potential to be a good tree.

 

Of course maf I do appreciate the detailed reply.

After removing the string it does seem to me that there are no fresh impressions from it on the base of the stem.

(FWIW the circumference of the stem at the base is 6" which translates to an approximate diameter of just under 2")

And you were correct in surmising that this potted tree was in fact root bound (picture below with pot removed).

So although at first I was just going to score the fibre pot before planting, I did in fact remove it completely and will do what I can to tease out any large roots.

It is my understanding that the larger the 'Aureum' the more likely it would survive its first winter so that is why I am hopeful for this one even with this late planting (but the 2 year warranty does give me a comfortable fall back position).

But I do have a couple of questions.

First, how far above ground level should the current base of the stem be positioned when it is in the ground?

I take I should give it water when it goes into the ground tomorrow?

 

Plant at existing level, water in and mulch well afterward. Sheltered position will be required, both to protect from winter cold and summer sun - do not plant in an open, windy place that gets sun all day.

 

I am glad to see the impression from the string was not too bad. Ron's advice above re planting is good.

How is the snow cover in Toronto during the coldest parts of winter? If you have a good covering of snow throughout the coldest part of winter it will go a long way towards insulating the roots in the first and critical winter.

 

Thanks Ron I did know that "Aureum" needs some extra care...especially that sun caveat. (Although I always find it tricky deciding how much shade is too much for plants requiring some shade).

 

Here as probably in other locales, it seems more and more we experience (much) less snow e.g. last year. And the years when snow is scarce I have been known to shovel snow off the walkways and onto the perennial garden to get that protection for the plants :).

 

'Aureum' burns even in dull summer areas unless shaded. Various Sec. Palmata maples can be prone to cold spring winds.

 

I have done both at the time of planting. Given that it is dormant do I need to provide any more water?

 

Not if the soil stays moist all winter.

 

maf, given this nursery tree is 5 foot in height and the base of the stem is just about 2" in diameter, approximately how old would you think this "Aureum" would be?

 

Ten years maybe? They are quite slow growing and it obviously depends on climate and cultural practice where it was grown.

It would probably have spent a couple of years in pots after grafting, then was field grown for X years to big up the size, then probably another 2 or more years in a pot to get to the stage where the string was digging in to the trunk and it was rootbound.

 

Thanks maf for the chronology.

 

I see I have a bale of straw. Would this spread around the perimeter of the base of this tree, but not in direct contact with the bark, serve as good mulch...acting as additional protection from the winter weather for this recently planted JM?

 

UPDATE:

Here is this same tree 6 months later, having made it through its first winter after being planted in late November 2012.

 

What a beautiful specimen, Copper! I'm green with envy here! It's always been a favorite of mine, but I've been reluctant to grow it given the high heat here in the summer. I may have to bite the bullet and buy a larger tree like yours. I've read where the older trees have a much higher survival rate in these neck of the woods.

Kevin in KC

 

Thanks Kevin. It is hard to get a proper picture of this tree as the bright leaves are hard to photograph (at least for me).

 

That looks very nice. Glad to hear it sailed through the winter, looks very healthy.

 

Thanks 'maf' and Kevin. It is a unique tree and I am glad we have one on our property.

 

And here it is as of August 1st with some surrounding impatiens:

 

UPDATE 7 years later:

From May 24/2020:

 

Hi @copperbeech, what a beautiful tree you have. Your patience and hard work has certainly paid off. Well done you.